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latidsc  aping 
Simplified  \ 
fiardij  Ornamental 
Shrubs  and  Trees" 

and        /•• 
The  Rose  Garden" 


OFFICE  AND 
ENTRANCE  TO 
GROUNDS  OF 
STARK    BRO'S 
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LandscapeArchitects 

and  Ornamental 

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"For  ten  years  I  have  dreamed  a  dream  about  a  home  to  be. 
For  ten  years  both  Molly  and  I  have  framed  withm  our  hearts 
that  immortal  phrase  of  Thomas  Gray: 

'And  hie  him  home,  at  evenings  close, 
To  sweet  repast  and  calm  repose.' 

And-now  the  dream  is  coming  true  I  That  home  of  ours  is  to 
nestle  amid  a  setting  of  stately  trees-in  grounds  adorned  by 
graceful  clusters  of  pretty  shrubbery.  A  hedge  of  harmonious 
Lie  and  shape  will  embrace  it.  A  rose  garden-Molly  s  fondest 
wish  for  years-will  lend  its  gorgeous  coloring  to  the  landscape 
plan.  Beautiful  flowering  vines  will  cling  to  the  trell 

"My  dream— and  Molly's— is  coming  true !" 


Copyright  1016  by  Stark  Bro's,  Louisiana,  Mo. 


Secrets  of    Ornamental    Planting 


MER1CANS  of  the  present  generation  have  come  to  the 


isJ,m?Vj  to  life  than 


o  te  present  generaton  ave  come  to  te  reaitftoji  jfe/e  sJ,mp?j  to  e  tan 
mere  money-making.  What  is  great  wealth  if  one  does  not  know  how  to  enjoy  an'd  ge£  pleasure  from 
it?  That  is  the  question  which  they  have  asked.  The  American  people  themselves  have  supplied 
the  answer  by  the  great  wave  of  interest  in  Landscape  Gardening  that  has  swept  across  our 
country.  Within  the  past  few  years  Americans  have  learned  to  enjoy  their  homes  and  to 
learn  what  a  home  really  is.  They  have  learned  that  it  includes  much  more  than  a  mere  house 
in  which  to  sleep.  When  they  speak  of  their  home,  they  think  of  a  dwelling,  whether  large  or 
.small,  nestling  in  a  planting  of  arching  shade  trees  and  surrounded  by  beautiful  flowering 
shrubs,  with  an  expanse  of  green  lawn,  which  gives  a  pleasing  setting  to  the  house.  They  think 
of  the  flowering  rose  garden,  which  is  the  delight  of  the  entire  family;  then  the  private  portion 
of  the  grounds,  which  is  essentially  an  out-of-doors  living  room.  Thus  surrounded  by  Nature 
and  beautiful  growing  plants,  they  learn  what  true  enjoyment  of  a  home  can  mean. 

Keep  the  Children  at  Home 

Another  important  reason  why  the  home  should  be  made  attractive  is  to  interest  the 
children.  With  a  pleasant  home  and  an  interesting  garden  and  lawn,  the  children  are  apt 
to  stay  closer  under  the  influence  of  the  home  life  and  will  not  "wander  from  the  fold." 
Grown  people,  as  well  as  children,  like  to  spend  their  spare  moments  with  Nature.  If  this 
were  not  true,  we  would  have  no  parks  or  gardens.  In  the  Springtime  everyone  gets  a  touch 
of  Spring  in  his  system  and  there  is  a  strong  desire  to  plant  something  just  to  see  it  grow. 
Everyone  experiences  this  feeling  at  least  once  a  year  —  in  the  Springtime  —  and  with  most 

of  us  the  desire  to    always  spend  our  idle  moments  near  Nature  is    ever    present    because    there   in  the   garden  and 
"out-of-doors  living  room"  we  know  we  will  find  recreation,  privacy,  and  rest  from  the  strenuous  American  business  life. 


A  typical  American  home,  with 

open  lawns  well  framed  with 

trees  and  shrubs. 


Increased  Value  of  Property 

Entirely  aside  from  the  question  of 
enjoyment  of  the  home  grounds,  there 
is  another  and  more  practical  reason 
why  the  home  should  be  planted  with 
beautiful  shrubs  and  shade  trees.  In 
selling  any  property,  it  is  a  well-known 
fact  that  a  coat  of  paint  goes  a  long 
way  toward  closing  the  sale— so  does 
a  shrub  and  tree  planting,  but  even 
more  so.  Just  consider  how  much 
more  inviting  to  a  prospective  buyer  is 
the  home  shaded  by  beautiful  trees  and 
blended  into  its  surroundings  by 
means  of  graceful  shrubbery,  as  com- 
pared with  the  house  standing  alone, 
unprotected  from  heat  and  sun  and 
presenting  a  bare,  forlorn  and  uninvit- 
ing appearance.  After  this  comparison 
just  reflect  that  the  difference  in  ori- 
ginal cost  between  these  two  houses  is 
only  a  very  few  dollars  for  the  shrubs 
and  trees.  It  takes  only  a  year  or  two 
to  accomplish  these  results  and  the 
cost  is  small.  Looking  at  the  question 
from  a  purely  business  standpoint,  can 
you  afford  not  to  plant  your  home? 
If  you  want  an  expert  answer  to  this 
question,  inquire  of  any  reliable 
real  estate  appraiser.  A  well-known 
business  man  of  the  city  of  Rochester 
recently  told  the  writer  that  in  his 
capacity  as  appraiser  for  one  of  the 
large  trust  companies  of  that  city,  the 
question  of  tree  and  shrubbery  plant- 
ing very  often  made  a  large  difference 
in  the  appraised  value,  because  it  was 
readily  conceded  that  a  property  cor- 
rectly planted  with  trees  was  much 
easier  to  sell  than  one  which  was  lack- 
ing in  this  respect.  A  planting  planned 
by  Stark  Bro's  expert  Landscape 
Architects  will  often  add  25  to  50  per 
cent  to  the  ready  cash  value  of  a  place. 

American  Homes 

There  are,  broadly  speaking,  two 
classes  of  American  homes.  First, 
there  are  the  large  country  estates  and 
the  expensive  town  or  suburban  resi- 
dences. The  owners  of  such  properties 
can  usually  afford  to  pay  a  large  fee 
for  advice  from  local  landscape  archi- 
tects. Stark  Bro's  landscape  archi- 


[3] 


tects  are  frequently  called  upon  to 
consult  with  owners  of  such  proper- 
ties and  to  carry  out  the  plantings. 
The  Average  American  Home 
However,  the  overwhelming  per- 
centage of  American  homes  do  not  con- 
sist of  such  extensive  proportions. 
The  average  American  home  is  of 
moderate  or  small  site  and  the  sur- 
rounding grounds  are  not  large.  It 
would  be  regrettable  if  the  wealthy 
Americans  were  the  only  ones  who 
could  enjoy  the  privileges  of  charming 
and  beautifully  planned  home  grounds. 
It  is  an  unfortunate  and  sad  reality 
that  this  condition  of  affairs  has  been 
largely  true  in  past  years.  Do  not 
misunderstand  us;  the  desire  has  been 
ever  present  among  the  lovers  of  homes, 


but  owing  to  the  lack  of  experience 
and  available  information  on  landscape 
gardening,  they  have  not  known  how 
to  proceed  to  get  the  landscape  effect 
that  they  desired.  They  had  not  had 
the  opportunity  to  learn  different  char- 
acters of  plant  growth  and  the  correct 
way  to  plant  the  grounds  in  order  to 
gain  a  well-balanced  and  correctly 
planned  home.  On  the  other  hand,  they 
could  not  afford  to  employ  a  landscape 
architect  and  to  stand  the  expense  of 
his  fee.  The  result  has  been  very  dis- 
couraging. Either  all  planting  of  shrubs, 
flowers  and  trees  was  entirely  ignored 
and  the  home  left  bare,  or  else  an 
attempt  has  been  made  to  set  a  few 
trees  and  shrubs  scattered  about  the 
lawn  without  any  real  understanding 


Customer's  Sketch  Sent  to  Stark  Bro's 

This   is   the   sketch  from   which   Stark  Landscap 

Department  made  the    plan    in    next  column. 

Study  the  above  simple  sketch — then  make  a 

similar  one  of  your  home  grounds.      Will 

you  take  advantage  of  this  offer  of  free 

plans — see  details  panes  a  and  31. 


Completed   Plan   Designed  Free  by  Stark  Bro': 


526790 


Panorama  of  one  of  Stark  Bro's  Ornamental  Nurseries   devoted  exclusively  to  growing  Shade  Trees,  Shrubs  and  Roses. 


as  to  why  or  where  they 
should  be  plan  ted.  This 
groping  in  the  dark  is 
founded  on  the  desire 
to  see  something  grow 
and  to  watch  Nature,  but  the  final 
result  is  always  unsatisfactory,  as 
the  planting  was  not  considered  as  a 
whole  jior  any  general  plan  followed. 

The  Problem  Solved  by  Stark  Bro's 
New  Method  of  Free  Landscaping 

Realizing  the  great  need  and  desire 
of  the  American  people  for  just  this 
sort  of  service,  we  established  some 
years  ago  a  Landscape  Department  to 
furnish  free  landscaping  service  to  all 
who  desired  it.  We  offer  to  you  the 
opportunity  to  obtain  free  landscaping 


Acres  of  Hydrangeas 

Growing  in  the  Stark  Nursery  Blocks — will 
soon  bloom  on  thousands  of  lawns. 

Elans  also  free  consultation  with  our 
indscape  architects.  Thus  by  elimi- 
nating the  landscape  architect's  fee, 
by  offering  you  shrubs  and  trees  of 
only  the  highest  quality  and  best 
kinds  at  a  moderate  figure,  you  are 
enabled  to  plant  your  home  grounds 
at  a  very  small  cost.  We  hope  that  by 
this  new  method  we  have  solved  this 
great  problem  for  the  American  people. 
Small  Places  Even  More  Important 

Than  Large  Grounds 
Don't  make  the  mistake  of  assuming 
that  a  small  or  moderate  sized  prop- 
erty requires  a  slight  amount  of  atten- 
tion in  planning  the  landscape.  This 
is  not  true.  The  small  place  requires 
very  careful  consideration  in  order  to 
get  the  best  effect  out  of  a  limited 
amount  of  space.  It  is  even  a  more 
difficult  problem  than  the  large  country 
estate.  The  planting  on  the  small 
place  must  be  so  arranged  that  it 
makes  the  entire  property  appear  as 
large  as  possible,  therefore,  someone 
understanding  the  principles  of  land- 
scaping should  plan  your  grounds.  Ex- 
pert advice  in  the  planting  of  the  small 
grounds  by  Stark  Bro's  landscape  archi- 


tects will  prevent  many  expensive  and 
unfortunate  mistakes — and  besides,  it 
costs  you  nothing. 

What  Our  New  Free  Offer 
Means  to  You 

Stark  Bro's  plan  of  designing  for  you 
complete  planting  plans  without  charge 
will  prevent  many  costly  and  dis- 
appointing mistakes.  Our  landscape  ex- 
perts must  consider  many  things  in 
drawing  your  plans :  They  must  see  that 
the  color  combinations  are  harmonious 
and  that  the  skyline  is  not  too  regular, 
but  presents  an  interesting  effect.  They 
must  make  the  most  out  of  existing 
conditions  —  a  small  place  must  be 
made  to  appear  as  extensive  as  possible, 
and  the  attractive  views  must  be  en- 
hanced and  framed  in.  The 
shrubs  and  trees  they  select 
must  be  hardy  and  adapted  to 
the  climate  and  soil  in  which 
they  are  to  be  planted,  and  last 
but  not  least,  the  ultimate  and 
final  effect  of  the  entire  plant- 
ing must  be  harmonious,  inter- 
esting and  beautiful.  This  is  the 
service  that  Stark  Bro's  Land- 
scape Department  is  offering  to 
you  free.  You  can  be  sure  that 
your  place  will  be  planned  cor- 
rectly and  that  it  will  be  equally 
or  more  beautiful  than  your 
neighbor's. 

The  Men  Who  Plan  Your  Grounds 

This  department  includes  landscape 
architects  who  have  had  their  training 
in  the  foremost  American  colleges  of 
landscape  archi- 
tecture, in  addi- 
tion to  years  of 
practical  landscape 
experience  in  the 
planning  and 
planting  of  proper- 
ties. All  of  these 
men  are  experts  in 
their  line.  You  can 
depend  on  their 
judgement,  which 
is  backed  up  by 
practical  experi- 
ence. 

If  Landscaping 
Plans  Not  Re- 
quired Study 
This  Book 

If  you  decide 
that  you  do  not 
care  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  our  free 
planting  plans, 


you  can  carefully  read  the  follow- 
ing pages  of  this  book  and  thus 
learn  to  understand  and  master  the 
important  principles  of  landscape  de- 
signing. They  are  expressed  in  clear 
language  so  that  anyone  can  under- 
stand. We  do  not  know  of  any  book 
which  has  been  issued  up  to  this  time 
that  entirely  fulfills  the  requirements 
of  the  American  public  for  Landscape 
Gardening.  The  books  now  available 
are  either  too  theoretical,  having  been 
planned  for  the  sole  use  of  landscape 
architects,  or  else  they  are  too  incom- 
plete and  do  not  cover  the  subject  in 
a  thorough  and  practical  way.  Study 
this  book  carefully — Secrets  of  Orna- 
mental Planting  will  teach  you  how  to 
appreciate  and  understand  landscape 
planting  and  the  characters  of  the 
different  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers. 
We  have  realized  for  years  that  there 
has  been  a  big  demand  for  just  such 
a  book  as  this  one  and  now  we  are 
offering  it  to  the  American  people  with 
the  hope  that  it  will  mark  the  begin- 
ning of  a  new  era  of  civic  and  home 
improvement. 

Stark  Bro's— 100  Years  Experience 

Behind  this  Landscape  Department 
stands  the  largest  nursery  in  the  world 
and  the  oldest  in  America.  This  year 
marks  the  one  hundredth  anniversary 
of  the  founding  of  this  institution. 
The  growth  of  this  great  nursery  has 
been  a  steady,  healthy  one.  Stark 
Bro's  have  a  reputation  which  is 
nation-wide — and  even  beyond  the 
seas.  For  a  hundred  years,  Louisiana, 


A  Missouri  Home  Before  Planting  Shrubs 

This  is  the  same  house  that  is  shown  on  the  right.      Note  how 
tall  and  bleak  this  house  looks  before  planting. 


w 


Here  at  Louisiana,  Mo.,  We  Have  Ideal  Soi  I  and  Climate  for  Producing  Ornamentals.    Note  The  Main  Line  of  C.  &"A.'R.  R. 


Mo.,  has  been  the  fountain  head  of  higher 
quality  plants  and  trees.  Since  the  found- 
ing of  the  nursery  in  1816  by  Judge  James 
Stark,  there  have  been  four  generations 
of  Starks  in  this  institution.  This,  the 
fourth  generation,  still  cherishes  the 
ideals  of  the  early  founders.  They  re- 
gard the  work  not  merely  as  a  business 
— not  only  as  an  industry — but  as  a  pub- 
lic service.  Thus  Stark  Bro's  new  method 
of  giving  free  landscaping  service  is  in 
harmony  with  the  one-hundred-year-old 
policy  of  Stark  Service  to  every  Stark 
customer.  So  it  has  been  that  ever 
since  1816  the  name  of  Stark  has  stood 
for  all  that  grew  best  in  Nature  for 
the  enjoyment  of  mankind. 

Co-operation  With  Customer — 
Our  Policy 

Stark  Bro's  Landscape  Department 
co-operates  with  the  client — we  want 
to  know  your  ideas  and  wishes  about 
the  treatment  of  your  home  grounds  so 
we  can  follow  and  adapt  your  sugges- 
tions to  the  design  as  far  as  possible. 
If  you  have  a  preference  as  to  any 
particular  kind  of  tree,  shrub  or  rose, 
we  will  consider  this  in  drawing  the 
plans.  In  other  words,  your  ideas  and 
desires  will  be  incorporated  in  definite 
plans,  which  will  be  in  accordance  with 
the  best,  accepted  principles  of  land- 
scape gardening.  If  some  of  your  sug- 
gestions are  not  adapted  to  this  par- 
ticular problem,  we  will  write  and 
explain  the  reason  to  you.  Briefly,  our 
aim  is  to  design  a  planting  that  will  re- 
sult in  the  greatest  amount  of  pleasure 
and  satisfaction  to  our  customer. 


A  Three  Months'  Change — Planting  by  Stark   Bro's 

Compare  with  picture  on  the  left — a  good  illustration  of  "before  and  after" 
effect  of  one  of  Stark  Bro's  Free  Plans.     Note  hedge  and  shrubs. 


Quality  the  Prime  Essential 

We  believe  with  you  that  quality  is 
the  prime  essential  in  nursery  products. 
Things  must  grow  and  bear  bloom,  or 
else  money  and  priceless  time  are 
wasted.  The  men  whom  we  have 
gathered  about  us  in  these  many  years 
have  the  know-how  of  growing  and 
training  each  individual  shrub  or  tree. 
No  tree  or  plant  is  any  better  than  its 
roots — Stark  Bro's  plants  have  strong, 
thrifty  root  systems. 

How  To  Obtain  Free  Land- 
scaping Service 

All  that  our  Landscape  Department 
requires  to  make  a  landscape  planting 
plan  of  your  grounds  is  a  simple,  rough 
outline  sketch  showing  the  shape  and 
dimensions  of  the  lot,  location  of 
the  house,  walks,  driveways  and  other 
permanent  buildings.  To  show 
you  how  simple  a  plan  is  re- 
quired, we  are  reproducing  on 
page  3  a  sketch  that  one  of 
our  customers  sent  us.  We  also 
show  the  finished  product — the 
planting  plan  that  our  land- 
scape architects  designed  from 
the  information  shown  on  this 
rough  sketch.  Remember  we 
made  no  charge  whatever  for 
drawing  this  plan  and  the  cost 
of  the  shrubs  and  trees  was 
moderate.  It  is  a  very  simple 
matter  to  draw  the  sketch. 
Anyone  can  make  this  drawing 
in  five  minutes.  Use  Stark  Bro's  land- 
scape sketch  blank,  because  the  ruled 
lines  will  make  it  easier  and  more  simple 
for  you  to  draw  the 
sketch.  You  can 
step  off  the  dimen- 
sions of  your  lot, 
etc.,  allowing  about 
three  feet  for  each 
step.  If  you  can 
send  photographs 
of  your  lot  and 
house,  they  will  be 
of  assistance  to  our 
landscape  archi- 
tects, although 
photographs  are  not 
absolutely  neces- 
sary. Be  sure  to  in- 
dicate  on  your 
sketch  which  direc- 
tion is  North.  Also 
give  any  informa- 
tion about  adjoin- 
ing property  that 
you  think  would 
affect  the  design  of 
your  grounds. 


Indicate  the  Amount  You 
Desire  to  Spend  Now 

It  is  necessary  also  for  us  to  know  in 
a  rough  way  if  you  are  limited  as  to  the 
amount  you  can  spend  this  season. 
Possibly  you  want  to  do  part  of  the 
planting  this  year  and  finish  it  next 
season.  Sometimes  the  cost  of  the 
planting  can  be  greatly  reduced  by 
making  the  shrub  clumps  smaller  and 
using  smallerlsized  stock,  although  the 
landscape  effect  will  not  be  as  quick 
nor  as  satisfactory  as  where  larger 
sized  stock  is  used.  You  will  realize 
that  it  is  important  that  we  know  how 
much  you  feel  that  you  can  spend,  and 
whether  you  want  to  do  all  the  work 
at  this  time  or  let  it  extend  over  a  two 
or  three  years  period. 


field  of  Stark  Bro's  Spirea — preferred  by  careful 
planters  who  consider  quality. 

Small  Amount  of  Planting  Some- 
times Desirable 

Please  bear  this  point  in  mind.  Our 
landscape  architects  in  planning  your 
grounds  will  use  just  the  amount  of 
stock  and  kind  of  stock  that  will 
produce  the  best  landscape  effect.  We 
will  not  use  a  lot  of  unnecessary  plant- 
ing. Where  we  see  that  a  very  small 
amount  of  planting  will  be  more  effec- 
tive than  an  extensive  planting,  you 
may  be  sure  that  we  will  consider  our 
customer's  interest  first  and  above  all. 
Our  landscape  architects  are  thor- 
oughly trained  men  with  the  advantage 
of  much  practical  experience.  If  we 
think  that  your  home  already  has 
sufficient  planting,  we  will  tell  you  so. 

Money  and  Time  Wasted  Unless 
Definite  Plan  Followed 

A  definite  planting  plan  (either 
mental  or  on  paper)  is  necessary  for  the 
best  and  most  economical  results. 
Don't  waste  your  time,  money  and 
patience  by  "hit  and  miss"  planting. 
An  indiscriminate  scattering  of  trees 
and  shrubs  will  never  be  satisfactory. 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 


Landscaping  Simplified 

There  are  two  great  divisions  of  landscape  gardening. 

First,  there  is  the  so-called  formal  school,  which  is  also  termed  geometrical  or  artificial.  This 
method  was  largely  used  in  the  formal  gardens  of  the  old  world;  however,  it  is  not  suited  to  American 
homes  and  American  conditions  of  climate.  The  only  place  in  this  book  where  we  will  consider  the 
formal  type  is  under  the  subject  of  rose  and  flower  gardens.  For  full  explanation  of  this  subject,  see 
page  13,  under  "Gardens." 

Naturalistic  or  Informal  Landscaping 

The  second  great  division  of  landscape  gardening  and  the  one  which  we  will  consider  in  this  book 
is  known  as  the  informal  or  naturalistic  school.  Naturalistic  is  probably  the  best  name  for  this  type 
of  landscaping,  because  the  name  is  self-explanatory.  It  is  exactly  what  the  name  indicates — a  planting 
that  follows  and  imitates  Nature.  This  is  the  one  great  principle  to  bear  in  mind — make  your  land- 
scape planting  resemble  the  work  of  Nature.  The  naturalistic  planting  gives  a  feeling  of  freedom  and 
restfulness.  Everyone  knows  that  there  is  a  certain  enjoyment  and  relaxation  in  getting  out  among 
natural  growing  things.  That  is  why  all  of  us  are  drawn  to  the  woods  and  parks — it  is  a  pleasant  and 
restful  change  after  the  strain  of  office,  factory  or  housekeeping. 

Naturalistic  Planting  Characterized  by  Irregular, 
Graceful  Curves 

Plantings  of  the  naturalistic  type,  as  they  resemble 
Nature,  must  be  irregular  and  uneven — no  straight,  hard 
geometrical  lines.  The  shrub  groups  and  borders  are  laid 
out  in  long,  undulating,  irregular  curves  that  give  a  grace- 
ful and  natural  effect  to  the  planting.  Let  us  repeat 
again — the  essence  of  naturalistic  planting  is  Nature  itself. 

Landscaping  the  Typical  American  Home 

In  America  the  typical  home  is  of  moderate  or  small 
size.  The  large  country  estate  or  the  big  suburban  property 
of  the  wealthy  class  is  the  exception  rather  than  the  rule. 
What  we  have  to  say  in  the  following  pages  will  appeal 
especially  to  the  owner  of  the  more  moderate  sized  home, 
and  this  book  will  therefore  appeal  to  the  vast  major-it  i/  of 
Americans.  However,  the  general  principles  and  suggest- 
ions that  we  will  explain  will  be  applicable  also  to  the 
larger  and  more  extensive  properties.  Our  aim  is  to  ex- 
plain in  clear,  concise  and  easy-to-understand  language  the 
general  principles  and  practices  of  landscaping  so  that 
anyone  can  read  this  book  and  have  a  good  understanding  A  Country  Schoolhouse  with  Vines  and  Shrubs 

of    the    subject    and    thus    prevent    COStly    and    unfortunate  When  the  children  are  young  is  the  time  to  interest  them 

mistakes  in  laying  out  landscape  plantings. 

Lack  of  Landscape  Experience  Cause  of  Most  Mistakes 

Very  few  persons  have  had  the  opportunity  or  time 
to  devote  to  the  study  of  landscape  gardening,  nevertheless 
they  have  had  a  desire  to  properly  plant  their  lawns.  As 
a  result,  they  have  planted  a  few  shrubs  and  trees  here 
and  there  scattered  over  the  lawn  without  any  definite 
plan  or  consideration  of  the  effect  on  the  property  when 
taken  as  a  whole.  They  have  had  the  natural  desire  to 
see  something  grow  and  as  a  result  their  lawn  becomes  a 
sort  of  patchwork.  The  man  who  builds  a  house  considers 
it  a  proposition  to  be  taken  as  a  whole.  It  is  not  a  series 
of  additions,  such  as  building  one  room  at  a  time.  The 
same  principle  holds  true  in  landscape  planting — it  is 
necessary  that  a  general  scheme  or  plan  should  be  followed 
— no  matter  whether  this  plan  is  on  paper  or  in  one's  head. 

Home  Grounds  Divided  Into  Three  Parts 

Every  property  is  divided  into  three  main  divisions  or 
parts. 

First,  we  have  the  semi-public  portion  of  the  home 
grounds.  This  includes  the  front  lawn,  entrance  and  all 
that  portion  of  the  grounds  which  can  be  viewed  from  the 
street  or  road,  or  by  neighbors. 

Second,   we  have   the    private    portion    of    the    place. 
This  portion  of  the  grounds  is  shut  off  from  the  public  view 
A  Moderate-sized  American  Home  Made  Cozy  by  Shrubs  an(j  should  be  considered  as  a  sort  of  an  out-of-doors  living 

^^^a^ald^teo^^^^    TreeS        room      Here  is  where  the  family  can  have  privacy  and 
liarberry  hedge  would  improve  it.  solitude.  Here  is  where  the  rose  garden  should  be  laid  out. 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


Third,  the  service  portion  of  the  property 
which  includes  that  part  of  the  grounds 
that  has  the  drying  yards,  service  walk, 
vegetable  and  fruit  garden.  This  division 
of  the  grounds  is  separated  or  screened  off 


The  Gaudy  Style— A  Cluttered  Foreground 

lioth  the  picture  above  and  the  one  to  the  right 

were  taken  from  the  same  front  porch.      Note 

the  difference.     The  above  "iew  is  spoiled 

by  the  scattered  plants  on  the  lawn. 

both  from  the  public  and  private  portions 
by  lattices  covered  with  vines  or  by  shrub 
border  plantings. 

The  Semi-Public  Portion 

This  is  the  part  of  the  grounds  which  is 
most  frequently  seen.  It  consists  of  what  is 
commonly  known  as  the  front  lawn  and  it 
should  present  the  best  possible  appearance. 
The  entrances,  drives  and  walks  should  be 
arranged  so  that  they  will  be  most  conyen- 
iont.  The  shrub  groups  and  tree  plantings 
should  be  so  placed  as  to  give  the  house 
the  most  effective  setting. 

Principles  of  Landscape 
Gardening 

In  every  landscape  planting  the  principle 
of  unity  is  all  important.  To  attain  unity 
all  that  is  necessary  is  to  have  the  entire 
place  treated  in  such  a  way  that  it  will 
present  a  harmonious  whole.  In  other  words, 
the  aim  should  be  to  make  the  home  grounds 
like  a  picture.  There  should  be  one  central 
idea  or  feature.  In  the  home  grounds,  this 
central  idea  is  the  house,  which  is  the  domi- 
nant point  of  the  entire  planting.  We  must 
guard  against  breaking  up  the  grounds  into 
many  individual  parts.  Every  good  picture 
has  the  one  central  idea  with  many  sub- 
ordinate or  secondary  features.  It  is  often 
true  that  the  simplest  home  planting  is  the 
most  attractive. 

How  to  Attain  Unity  or 
Picture  Effect 

To  gain  pur  picture  effect,  the  first  thing 
to  consider  is  a  large,  open  front  lawn.  Never 
plant  shrubs  and  trees  scattered  over  the 
yard.  This  breaks  up  the  lawn  into  many 
parts  and  makes  it  appear  much  smaller 
than  it  really  is.  We  should  aim  to  increase 
its  apparent  size.  Furthermore,  shrubs  and 
trees  should  never  be  planted  in  straight 
rows  on  the  lawn,  or  any  other  part  of  the 
property.  Of  course  there  is  an  exception 


when  we  plant  street  trees  along  the  high- 
way. It  is  especially  important  that  the 
lawn  on  small  properties  should  be  kept 
open,  because  in  these  cases,  there  is  a  very 
limited  amount  of  space  available  and  it 
should  be  made  to  appear  as  large  as  possible. 
And  besides,  the  grass  grows  much  better 
on  the  lawn  when  it  is  open  to  the  sun.  A 
green  lawn  is  one  of  the  most  important 
parts  of  an  effective  landscape  treatment. 
The  view  from  the  front  of  the  home 
should  not  be  obstructed.  If  we  were  to 
plant  shrubs  and  trees  scattered  over  the 
lawn,  it  would  entirely  ruin  ,the  outlook. 
Instead,  we  must  select  the  best  views  and 
then  frame  them  with  a  planting  of  trees 
and  shrubs. 


The  Stark  Way  of  Landscaping 

We  design  open  lawns  with  borders  of  shrubs 

View  framed    by  graceful   trees.      This 

illustrates   Unity  in  Landscaping. 

Planting  About  the  House 

We  have  already  spoken  of  the  planting 
about  the  house.  Shade  trees  on  either  side 
of  the  house  are  useful  for  the  protection  they 
give  from  the  bright  sun  in  Summer  and  the 
cold,  bleak  winds  in  Winter.  However,  an 
even  more  important  reason  for  planting 


trees  relatively  near  the  house  is  to  frame  in 
the  home  and  to  give  a  cozy,  protected 
effect.  Shrubs  and  trees  both,  when  planted 
around  the  house,  make  it  blend  in  closer  with 
the  surrounding  landscape.  The  house  seems 
to  appear  as  if  it  belonged  there  and  was  a 
part  of  the  entire  natural  surrounding.  On 
the  other  hand  think  of  a  house  standing 
on  a  bare  lot  with  no  planting  to  soften  the 
hard  architectural  lines.  This  results  in 
the  house  appearing  artificial  and  out  of 
place.  In  summer  it  is  hot  and  uninviting; 
in  winter  it  appears  cold,  bleak  and  unpro- 
tected. 

Avoid  Patchwork  of  Color 

Another  factor  that  must  be  considered  in 
making  the  home  grounds  an  effective  pic- 
ture is  the  general  color  scheme,  which  should 
be  of  a  quiet  tone.  We  may  have  contrast 
of  different  colors,  such  as  dark,  light  and 
medium,  but  we  must  avoid  a  spotted  or 
patchwork  appearance.  Use  enough  plants 
of  one  color  in  a  group  to  prevent  this  spotted 
appearance.  By  blending  the  groups  of  the 
different  colors  together,  we  will  get 
harmonious  effects.  As  we  have  said  before, 
the  major  portion  of  color  should  be  quiet, 
such  as  the  beautiful  green  and  white  of 
Spirea  Van  Houttei.  Again,  if  you  will 
refer  to  the  landscape  work  of  Nature,  you 
will  find  that  she  grows  shrubs  in  groups 
with  the  many  colors  blended  together. 
There  is  no  regularity  in  the  way  she  lays 
out  her  plantings. 

Avoid  Monotony 

Do  not  make  the  planting  too  dull  or  with 
too  much  of  a  sameness.  We  must  have  some 
variety  in  color,  shape  and  arrangement  of 
the  plants.  There  must  be  a  few  accents, 
such  as  an  upright  shrub  or  tree  or  a  bright 
flowering  plant.  The  walks  must  be  laid 
out  in  long,  irregular,  graceful  curves.  If 
possible,  views  in  different  parts  of  the 
grounds  should  be  framed  in  so  as  to  lend 
interest  to  the  planting. 

Other  Principles  of  Landscape 
Gardening 

Aside  from  the  principle  of  unity  (treat- 
ment as  a  whole),  there  are  other  important 
principles  that  must  be  considered  in  laying 
out  the  home  grounds. 

It  is  very  often  true  that  the  simplest 
planting  is  the  most  effective.  Although  we 
must  have  sufficient  planting  to  frame  in  the 
home,  to  create  the  effect  of  larger  grounds 
and  to  give  variety  to  the  planting,  still  we 
do  not  want  to  overdo  it.  We  must  realize 
when  it  is  time  to  stop  planting.  Don't 
clutter  up  the  entire  property  with  plants 
— leave  plenty  of  wide  open  stretches  of 
lawn  and  confine  the  shrub  planting  largely 
to  the  borders  of  the  property  and  around 
the  house. 

Variety  in  Landscaping 

A  home  planted  with  shrubs  which  has 
very  similar  characteristics  would  soon 
become  dull  and  monotonous.  In  landscape 
planting,  as  well  as  other  phases  of  life, 


Thecharmof this  beautiful  home  liesinthegreatopenlawn,  framing  trees  and  surrounding  foundation 
planting  of  flowering  shrubs.      The  planting  increases  the  cash  value  of  this  place  £5  to  60%. 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 

,I,IHI m iinmii i imi iiiiini i iiinnii iiiiiiiin i inn inn in iiiiinii inn iiiiiiniiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiini iiiiiiiiini iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinii iiiiiiiniiiiii inn inn  iiiiiin MINI i i iiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiil iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiini iniiiiiuiii 


there  must  be  variety.  We  must  have  variety 
in  color,  shape  and  size.  By  means  of  a 
bright  color  or  a  tree  or  shrub  with  unusual 
shape,  we  can  incorporate  accents  in  the 
general  planting.  These  accents  will  make 
the  entire  planting  more  interesting  to  all  who 
view  it.  For  instance,  one  or  two  Lombardy 
Poplars  with  their  very  slender,  upright 
growth  would  give  a  pleasing  contrast  to  a 
planting  of  lower,  round-headed  trees.  The 
graceful,  drooping  branches  of  the  Weeping 
Willow,  if  not  used  top  much,  will  make  the 
planting  more  interesting;  the  golden  colored 
foliage  of  Golden  Elder  (Sambucus  Aurea) 
or  the  Golden  Syringa  (Philadelphus  Aureus) 
gives  a  very  striking  contrast  to  the  planting. 
However,  these  must  be  used  very  carefully 
indeed  or  else  the  contrast  will  be  too  striking. 
The  beautiful  white  bark  of  European  Birch 
is  a  character -which  should  be  considered  in 
striving  for  variety.  This  also  applies  to  the 
bark  of  European  Sycamore,  one  of  the  finest 
and  most  satisfactory  of  all  shade  and  street 
trees  for  American  conditions. 

Symmetry  or  Balance 

Although  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  one 
side  of  the  planting  exactly  balance  the 
opposite  side,  still  it  is  advisable  to  have  the 
general  effect  of  color  and  mass  on  both  sides 
of  equal  value.  The  question  of  symmetry 
or  balance  is  of  most  importance  when  laying 
out  the  garden.  This  we  consider  more  in 
detail  when  we  take  up  the  subject  of  "Gar- 
dens" on  page  13. 

Interest  Maintained  by  Making 
the  Planting  Intricate 

Landscape  treatment  of  property  may  be 
very  carefully  and  perfectly  laid  out,  but  if 
there  are  not  enough  interesting  effects  and 
views  it  may  soon  prove  dull  and  mono- 
tonous. As  we  walk  about  the  grounds  we 
want  to  see  new  views,  unexpected  bays  in 
the  shrubbery — something  to  keep  our 
interest  continually  aroused  a.nd  active.  In 
other  words,  we  want  to  have  a  feeling  that, 
as  we  walk  about  the  grounds  there  is  some- 
thing to  explore — some  hidden  beauties  a 
|ittle  further  on.  In  Nature's  plantings  our 
interest  is  kept  aroused  by  a  feeling  that  we 
are  exploring;  this  is  the  same  principle  that 
we  must  keep  in  mind  in  landscaping  the 
grounds  by  the  naturalistic  method. 

Convenience  and  Compactness 

These  two  principles  go  hand-in-hand. 
The  different  parts  of  the  home  grounds 
should  be  so  arranged  that  they  will  be 
easily  accessible  and  convenient  in  going 
from  one  part  to  another.  These  same 
principles  must  be  considered  by  the  archi- 
tect when  planning  the  house.  It  must  be 
convenient  to  go  from  one  room  to  another 
without  taking  extra  steps.  The  flower 
u3rden  must  be  conveniently  and  closely 


located  to  that  portion  of  the  house  which  is 
most  largely  used,  for  the  garden  is  essen- 
tially an  out-of-doors  living  room.  By 
locating  the  walks  in  the  correct  place,  it 
will  prevent  the  wearing  of  paths  on  the 
lawn.  It  is  natural  for  anyone  to  go  on 
the  most  direct  line  from  one  point  to  another. 
For  further  details  as  to  laying  out  walks, 
see  page  14.  On  small  places  it  is  partic- 
ularly important  to  have  different  parts  of 
the  grounds  planned  so  they  will  be  most 
compact  and  convenient,  thus  getting  the 
greatest  possible  use  out  of  a  limited  area. 

Privacy  and  Seclusion 

Privacy  is  a  necessary  and  sacred  part  of 
family  life.  The  private  portion  of  the 
grounds  is  the  part  which  is  probably  the 
most  appreciated  and  prized  by  the  owner, 
the  rose  and  flower  garden,  where  the  owner 
feels  he  can  relax  in  the  bosom  of  his  family. 
Here  he  can  walk  and  roam  among  his  flowers, 
confident  that  he  is  not  observed  by  the 
outside  world.  Only  the  one  who  has  exper- 
ienced the  privilege  and  precious  enjoyment 
of  a  private  garden  can  appreciate  what  this 
means  to  the  tired 
business  -  man  or 
housewife. 

A  Good  Land- 
scape   Design. 

In  making  a  suc- 
cessful and  correct 
landscape  planting 
all  of  the  principles 
that  we  have  ex- 
plained above 
enter  into  the  final 
and  complete  plan. 
In  other  words,  it 
is  a  combination  of 
all  the  principles 
and  elements  of 
landscape  garden- 
ing. '  The  final  re- 
sult of  the  planting 
is  a  beautiful  and 
consistent  whole — 
an  interesting  and 
attractive  picture. 
Someone  may  ask 
how  all  of  the  prin- 
ciples can  be  com- 
bined, also  if  some 
of  the  principles 
are  not  directly 
opposed.  Nature 
furnishes  the  an- 
swer. In  Nature, 
we  may  have  unity 
or  treatment  as  a  whole  and  also  have  variety 
and  interest.  Nature's  plantings  demonstrate 
the  principle  of  simplicity.  They  also  show 
that  intricacy  is  a  part  of  each  planting  of 
Nature.  So  it  can  be  seen  that  this 


combination  of  all  the  principles  of  landscape 
gardening   is  pleasing  and   satisfactory. 

A  Few  Don'ts  for   Home  Planters 

Don't  clutter  up  your  front  lawn  with  a  lot 
of  scattered  shrubs  and  trees.  Remember 
that  the  big,  open  lawn  is  just  as  important 


Perennials  in  a  Formal  Garden 

Give  flowers  and  beauty  from  April  to  November. 
Plenty  of  variety  to  be  found  in  such  a  garden. 


A  characteristic 
planting  for  a  large 
estate  or  a  park — 

graceful  curving 
drives  and  natural- 
istic shrub  clumps. 


as  any  part  of  the 
planting.  Leave 
plenty  of  views  and 
make  them  more 
beautiful  by  fram- 
ing them  with 
plantings  of  shrubs 
and  trees. 

Don't  plant  trees 
too  close  to  the 
house.  They  should 
be  close  enough  to 
frame  in  the  house 
and  help  to  pro- 
tect it  in  Winter 
and  shade  it  in 
Summer.  But  re- 
member that  the 
house  inside  will 
require  light  and 


An  Avenue  of  Picturesque  Lombardy  Poplars. 

A  hardy  quick  growing  tree.     A  universal  favorite  for  avenue  planting  or  for  general  landscaping 
both  in  Europe  and  America.     Gives  accent  and  variety  to  the  skyline. 


you    do    not    want  it  too  damp. 

Don't  overdo  the  planting.  Home  grounds 
that  are  made  too  elaborate  will  not  be 
satisfactory. 

Don't  put  flower  beds  on  the  front  lawn- 
Very  often  we  see  a  round  or  fancy  shaped 
flower  bed  stuck  out  in  the  middle  of  a  large, 
attractive  lawn.  This  breaks  up  the  expanse 
of  the  lawn  and  detracts  from  the  picture 
effect  at  which  we  are  striving.  The  house 
should  be  the  center  of  our  picture,  but  with 
flower  beds  breaking  up  the  front  lawn,  it 
turns  the  attention  from  the  central  idea 
and  besides,  these  formal,  or  regular  shaped 
beds  are  not  in  harmony  with  the  naturalistic 
style  of  landscaping.  Flowers  and  roses  are 
an  important  factor  in  Landscape  Gardening, 
but  they  should  be  in  the  garden  and  not 
on  the  front  lawn.  When  they  are  used  on 
the  lawn,  they  are  unattractive  when  not 
in  bloom  and  in  the  Winter  these  bare  flower 
beds  become  very  ugly. 

Don't  put  unsuitable  ornaments,  such  as 
iron  vases,  iron  animals  and  artificial  metal 
figures  on  the  lawn.  These  are  not  in  harmony 
with  the  naturalistic  style.  The  only  place 
that  ornaments  of  this  kind  are  in  good 
taste  on  the  home  grounds  is  in  the  private 
portion  or  garden,  where  the  treatment  is 
more  or  less  of  the  formal  type.  We  explain 
this  subject  in  detail  under  the  heading  of 
"Gardens." 

Don't  break  up  the  lawn  with  too  many 
drives  and  walks.  Of  course  convenience 
requires  that  there  be  a  certain  number  of 
walks  and  drives,  but  these  should  be  held 
to  the  minimum.  This  is  especially  true  on 
small  grounds.  Remember  that  wherever 
anything  breaks  up  the  wide  expanse  of  the 
lawn  it  makes  the  place  seem  smaller.  Some- 
times the  walks  or  drives  are  slightly  sunken 
so  they  do  not  show  up  to  such  an  extent. 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 

NiiiiiHuiiiiMumiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii™ 


Don't  make  the  planting  too  monotonous 
and  bare.  Often  we  see  shrubs  planted 
about  a  house  in  a  sort  of  hedge  form  and 
as?ain  great  rows  of  shrubs  along  the  borders 
of  the  property.  This  is  not  the  way  that 
Nature  would  do  the  planting,  therefore, 
it  is  not  in  keeping  with  the  naturalistic 
style.  The  shrubs  should  be  planted  around 
the  house  in  irregular,  uneven  groups,  and 
the  borders  should  be  laid  out  in  graceful 
curves  with  bays  and  framed-in  views.  The 
entrance  to  the  grounds  can  be  very  effectively 
masked  so  that  the  visitor  when  entering 
the  grounds  will  not  see  the  entire  place  laid 
out  before  him,  but  instead  will  be  led  from 
point  to  point  with  an  ever-changing  view. 
However,  the  mistake  should  not  be  made  of 
shutting  in  the  place  too  densely.  Remember 
that  the  front  lawn  and  front  view  of  the 
house  should  be  semi-public.  You  do  not 
want  the  place  surrounded  and  hidden  from 
view  by  a  planting  that  would  be  essentially 
a  prison  wall. 

In  summing  up  the  whole  proposition,  we 
might  say  that  the  aim  in  landscape  garden- 
ing is  to  make  the  home  attractive  and  pleas- 
ant, and  all  of  the  planting  should  be  sub- 
servient to  that  one  idea. 


Special  Features  of  the 
Home  Grounds 

(In  this  we  take  up  the  matter  of  the  treatment 
of  entrances  and  approaches  to  the  house.) 

Walks  and  Driveways 


The  entrance  walk  and  driveways  should 
be  at  right-angles  to  the  road.  Do  not  let 
them  connect  with  the  road  at  an  oblique 
angle.  If  it  is  necessary  to  make  a  turn  in 
the  driveway  or  walk,  this  should  be  in  long 
sweeping  and  graceful  curves  and  the  ap- 
proach to  the  house  should  be  direct  and 
most  convenient.  A  curved  walk  or  driveway 
is  much  prettier  and  more  effective  than  a 
straight  hard  line.  However,  we  must  not 
have  useless  curves  and  the  general  direction 
of  the  driveway  or  walks  must  always  be 
towards  the  house. 

It   would   appear   ridiculous   and    artificial 
to  curve  a  walk  or  driveway  where  a  straight 
line   would  be   the   most  direct   way.     How- 
ever, in  order  to  afford  an  excuse  for  curving 
the    driveway,    a    clump    of   shrubs    can   be 
placed    so    that    the    driveway    will    appear 
to  curve  around  the  clump.     We  have  already  ex- 
plained that  there  should  be  just  as  few  walks  and 
driveways  as  possible — only  the  ones  that  are  abso- 
lutely  necessary — but  it   is   better   to   have   a   walk 
than  to  have  a  path  worn  on  the  lawn.     If  you  find 
it  difficult  to  stop  the  use  of  a  path  across  any  part 
of   your   property,    you    will   find   that   a    clump    of 


shrubbery  placed  across  the  path  will  be  one 
of  the  most  effective  ways  to  stop  it. 

Entrances 

If  the  entrance  gate  is  used,  it  should  be 
of  the  same  material  and  character  as  the 
house.  If  the  house  is  of  red  brick,  the 
entrance  should  be  treated  with  the  same 
material.  If  the  house  is  of  stone,  or  wood, 
the  same  principle  will  hold  true.  A  training 
of  clinging  vines  over  the  entrance  gate  will 
be  found  to  be  very  effective. 

The  entrance  should  be  located  at  the  most 
convenient  point.  If  most  of  the  travel  is 
in  one  direction,  the  entrance  should  be 
located  at  the  point  closest  to  the  main 
direction  of  travel.  Very  often  this  results 
in  the  entrance  being  at  one  corner  of  the 
property.  This  gives  an  opportunity  for  a 
long,  curved  driveway  leading  up  to  the  house. 
We  have  already  explained  why  the  entrance 
should  be  more  or  less  hidden  from  the 
house.  Clumps  of  shrubbery  can  be  planted 
on  either  side  of  the  entrance,  largest  shrub- 
bery towards  the  center  of  the  clump  and 
the  lower,  spreading  shrubs  in  front.  As 
the  visitor  enters  the 
masked  entrance  and 
drives  towards  the 
house,  he  continually 
gets  a  new  view  of  the 
property.  This  is 

much  more  effective 
than  if  the  whole 
grounds  were  spread 
out  like  a  map  so  that 
everything  was  visible 
at  one  glance. 

However,  the  view 
from  the  home  should 
overlook  the  street  or 
road  and  likewise  the 
passer-by  should  get  a 
good  view  of  the  house 
and  its  surrounding 
planting. 


the  whole  picture.  In  other  words,  the  shrubs 
are  used  to  form  a  transition  or  connection 
between  the  house  and  the  surrounding 
landscape.  This  shrub  and  tree  planting 
helps  to  blend  the  various  parts  of  the  pic- 
ture and  to  make  it  appear  in  keeping  with 
the  naturalistic  surroundings. 

When  planting  the  shrub  groups  about  the 
house,  be  sure  that  the  groups  are  planted  in 
irregular  clumps.  Do  not  plant  them  in  a 
straight  hedge  effect  around  the  foundation 
of  the  house.  It  should  also  be  remembered 
that  shrubs  with  foliage  of  fine  texture  are 
better  suited  for  close  planting  around  the 
house  than  the  rougher  and  more  irregular 
growing  shrubs.  For  instance,  shrubs  with 
foliage  of  fine  texture  like  Spirea  Van  Houttei, 
Japanese  Barberry  (Berberis  Thunbergii), 
Spirea  Billardi,  Snowberry  (Symphoricarpus 
Racemosus)  and  shrubs  of  this  type  are  well 
adapted  for  planting  near  the  house.  Some  of 
the  best  trees  for  planting  near  the  house 
to  form  a  frame  and  to  protect  the  house  in 
Summer  and  Winter  are  the  following  kinds: 
American  White  Elm,  Tulip  Tree,  European 
Linden,  Silver  Maple,  European  Sycamore 
Norway  Maple. 


Planting  Around 
the  House 

The  planting  of 
shrubs  and  trees  about 
the  house  tends  to  tie 
the  house  to  its  sur- 
roundings and  make  it 
seem  more  a  part  of 


This  Entrance  Speaks  for  Itself 

Nestled  among  the  trees  and  flowering  shrubs  the  house  has  a  homelike 
privacy.     This  is  the  way  Stark  Bro's  experts  will  plan  your  grounds. 

On  every  property  there  will  probably  be  several 
good  views.  The  best  ones  should  be  picked  out  and 
should  be  considered  in  laying  out  the  planting.  By 
properly  framing  in  these  good  views  with  trees 
and  shrubbery,  you  will  get  the  effect  of  lending 
distance  to  the  views  and  also  increasing  the  apparent 
size  of  the  property.  Thus  by  framing  in  the 
views,  each  one  becomes  a  picture. 


Photograph,  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  Y. 

The  beautiful  entrance  to  President  Woodrow  Wilson's  summer  home  in  New  Jersey.     The  beautiful  ivy  covering  the  entrance  posts 
and  the  shrub  planting  on  either  side  is  most  effective.     The  trees  give  privacy,  maintaining  interest  in  the  mind  of  the  visitor. 


Secrets      of     Ornamental     Planting 


The  Stark  Way  of  Framing  a  View 

With  the  sturdy  graceful  Elm — America's  great- 
est shade  tree. 

Shutting  Out  Undesirable  Views 

Very  often  there  are  certain  views  or  out- 
buildings which  are  "eye-sores"  when  viewed 
from  the  house.  These  views  can  be  blanket- 
ed out  and  hidden  by  a  planting  of  trees.  It 
is  often  desirable  to  use  quick  growing  trees 
in  order  to  attain  this  result  as  soon  as  possible. 
Out-buildings  and  barns  can  be  hidden  by, 
plantings  of  high  shrubs,  and  unsightly  boar<J 
fences  can  be  blanketed  out. 

Flowering  of  Shrubs  and  Trees 

In  selecting  the  shrubs  for  the  landscape 
planting  of  the  home  grounds,  the  flowering 


gives   the   time   of   flowering   and   the   height 
to  which  the  shrub  grows. 

Time  of  Blooming 

The  time  of  flowering  is  another  important 
consideration.  In  planting  shrub  groups  in 
borders,  we  want  to  plan  to  have  shrubs 
some  of  which  will  be  in  bloom  throughout 
the  season,  thus  there  will  always  be  an 
interesting  bloom  from  early  Spring  until 
late  Fall.  Starting  out  with  the  Forsythia, 
with  its  brilliant  yellow  bloom  in  early  Spring 
before  the  leaves  appear,  then  comes  the 
Red  Bud  or  Cercis  followed  by  the  attractive 
Deutzias.  White  Kerria  (Rhodotypus  Ker- 
rioides)  blooms  early  and  continues  to  bloom 
all  summer.  Next  comes  that  magnificent 
shrub,  Spirea  Van  Houttei.  which  has  been 
pronounced  the  one  best  shrub.  With  its 
white  billows  of  flowers  it  presents  a  mag- 
nificent effect.  After  the  flowers  are  gone, 
the  foliage  is  of  great  landscape  value, 
being  of  fine  texture  and  a  rich  green.  Fol- 
lowing Spirea  Van  Houttei  comes  the  Phila- 
delphus,  which  is  commonly  called  the  Mock 
Orange  or  Syringa.  This  splendid  old-time, 
fragrant  shrub  is  a  beautiful  sight  in  bloom. 
Following  it  comes  the  Viburnum  Opulus 
commonly  called  the  High  Bush  Cranberry 
with  its  white  panicles  which  are  followed  by 
brilliant  scarlet  fruit.  Tamarix  Africana 
also  blooms  at  this  time.  Its  pink  blossoms 
gives  the  entire  bush  a  pinkish  cast.  Indeed 
it  is  different  in  appearance  from  any  other 
shrub.  A  clump  of  Tamarix  on  the  lawn 
gives  the  effect  of  the  spray  from  an  ocean 
breaker. 

June  has  been  called  the  month  of  the 
roses  and  truly  so,  for  in  this  month  the 
roses  seem  to  outdo  themselves.  However, 
in  this  month,  many  of  our  finest  shrubs 
are  also  in  bloom. 

In  June  Weigela  rosea  presents  its  wealth 
of  rose-colored  flowers.  There  is  also  a  white 
type  and  a  red  flowering  type. 

The  Lilacs 

Probably  the  finest  and  most  popular  of 
all  the  June  flowering  shrubs  are  the  Lilacs. 
For  generations  Lilacs  have  been  dear  to 
the  hearts  of  all  lovers 
of  Nature.  The  old- 
fashioned  Lilac  was 
very  popular  with  our 
grandparents,  but  we 
are  more  fortunate 
in  having  numerous 
new  and  improved 
varieties,  with  a  great 
variety  of  color  and 
larger  blooms.  No 
landscape  planting  is 
complete  without  Li- 
1  acs.  Next  in  season  of 
bloom  comes  Spirea 
Billardi,  with  its  long 
plumy  spikes  of  fea- 
thery pink.  Some  of 
the  shrubs  which  bloom 


late  in  the  Summer  and  hold  over  until 
early  Fall  are  the  Hydrangea  Paniculata 
Grandiflora  (with  blooms  often  eight  or  ten 
inches  long  and  six  inches  in  diameter)  and 
Hibiscus  Syriacus  (Old-Fashioned  Rose  of 
Sharon).  There  are  many  colors  in  both 
single  and  double  flowers  of  the  latter  and 
it  should  be  planted  much  more  largely 
than  it  is.  There  are  certain  shrubs,  such 
as  Hydrangea  Arborescens  Grandiflora, 
Rosa  Rugosa,  White  Kerria,  etc.,  that  bloom 
throughout  the  Summer. 

Bright  Colored  Berries 

Some  shrubs  are  of  great  value  not  only 
because  of  their  flowers,  but  because  of  their 
bright  colored  fruit.  The  long  brilliant  red 
berries  of  the  Barberry  are  very  interesting 
in  the  Fall  and  they  last  through  the  entire 
Winter.  The  Snowberry  (Symphoricarpiix 
Racemosus)  has  large  clusters  of  pearl  white 
berries  in  the  Fall.  The  High  Bush  Cran- 
berry (Viburnum  Opulus)  is  not  only  valuable 
on  account  of  its  bloom,  but  because  of  tlie 
clusters  of  brilliant  red  berries,  which  appear 
in  late  Summer  and  hold  over  to  the  Fall. 

Rosa  Rugosa  has  red  berries  throughout 
the  Summer  at  the-  same  time  the  shrubs  arc- 
blooming. 

Characters  of  Growth 

As  far  as  habit  of  growth  is  concerned, 
shrubs  are  divided  into  three  main  classes: 
FIRST,  we  have  the  high  growing  shrubs 
wnich  are  used  largely  as  a  background; 
SECOND,  we  have  the  medium  height 
shrubs,  which  can  be  planted  immediately 
in  front  of  the  background  and  higher  shrubs 
— these  are  called  "fillers;"  THIRD,  we  have 
the  low-growing  or  dwarfy  shrubs,  which 
are  used  to  edge  down  the  groups  of  shrubs — 
these  are  called  "facers." 

In  addition  to  the  height  growth  of  the 
shrubs  they  vary  greatly  in  being  upright, 
spreading  or  arching  in  their  general  character 
of  growth.  It  is  easily  seen  that  by  mixing 
the  different  kinds  of  shrubs  we  can  get,  an 
interesting  and  varied  effect,  thus  breaking 
the  monotony.  In  Nature  you  will  find 
a  great  blending  of  the  many  different  kinds 
of  shrubs  with  no  regularity  as  to  the  planting. 
It  is  this  natural  blending,  demonstrated  in 
Nature's  planting,  that  we  should  attempt 
to  reproduce. 

Planting  a  Shrub  Group 

We  have  explained  how  the  different  char- 
acteristics of  shrubs,  such  as  their  manner 
of  growth,  their  time  and  color  of  bloom, 
their  general  color  value  must  be  considered 
in  making  up  the  shrub  groups.  It  is  a 
combination  of  all  these  characteristics  in 
their  proper  proportion  that  produces  the 
successful  shrub  group.  There  are  a  number 
of  general  principles  or  rules  that  must  be 
observed  in  planting  the  borders  or  groups. 
The  tall  shrubs  should  be  planted  in  the 
background  of  the  border  or  in  the  center  of 


Planned  and  planted  by  Stark  Landscape  Archi- 
tects.   A  naturalistic  shrub  border  of  tall 
Viburnums,  Spireas,  Syringas,  etc. 

characteristics  should  be  carefully  considered. 
The  color,  size  and  time  of  flowering  are  all 
important.  In  planting  a  shrub  group,  be 
sure  that  the  color  of  the  different  shrubs  will 
be  harmonious.  Do  not  plant  shrubs  which 
have  pink  blossoms  near  those  which  have 
red  blossoms,  if  the  two  shrubs  bloom  at 
the  same  time.  However,  if  they  have 
different  times  of  blooming,  it  will  be  all 
tight  to  have  them  in  the  same  group.  You 
should  aim  to  have  variety  in  color  of  bloom. 
This  variety  will  lend  interest  and  attrac- 
tiveness to  the  planting.  For  instance, 
there  are  three  types  of  Weigela:  The  rose- 
colored,  the  white  blossoms  and  the  red 
blossoms.  The  budded  Lilacs  give  a  good 
opportunity  for  using  many  different  colors. 
By  carefully  studying  the  table  given  on 
page  20,  you  can  select  a  variety  of  har- 
monious colors  of  bloom.  This  table  also 


This  planting  could  be  improved  by  planting  some  trees  at  the  left  corner  of  the  house  to  pin  it  to 
the  surroundings  and  counteract  the  effect  that  the  house  is  slipping  down  the  hill. 


10 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


the  group.  Then  around  and  in  front  of  the 
taller  shrubs  we  will  plant  the  "fillers"  or 
shrubs  of  medium  height.  Then  on  the 
outside  or  in  front  of  the  fillers  we  can  plant 
our  lower,  spreading  shrubs,  which  we  have 
termed  "facers."  Bear  in  mind  that  you 
should  plant  the  background  or  tall  shrubs 
first  and  then  work  towards  the  front.  Never 
begin  in  the  front  and  work  towards  the  back. 
Second,  we  must  realize  that  in  plant- 
ing shrub  groups  or  borders  we  are  trying 
to  imitate  Nature.  Nature  never  plants 
single  specimens  of  shrubs  when  making  up 
her  natural  shrub  groups.  Instead,  she  plants 
several  of  each  kind  in  small  groups  and  then 
these  small  groups  are  massed  together  in 
one  large,  harmonious  group.  If  we  should 
plant  one  shrub  of  each  kind  in  a  group  we 
would  get  a  spotted,  unnatural  effect.  In 
other  words,  we  must  consider  the  shrubs  as 
groups  of  each  kind — not  individual  plants. 
By  keeping  this  in  mind,  we  can  get  harmoni- 
ously planted  groups  which  will  be  interesting 
and  varied. 


Spirea  Van  Houttel  at  the  Home  of  President  Stark 

The  billowy  white  banks  of  Spirea  Van  Houttei  are  the  admiration  of  all 
For  planting  around  porches  there  is  no  better  shrub. 


have  been  standing  for  many  centuries, 
long  before  Columbus  sailed  on  his  voyage 
of  discovery. 

It  is  becoming  a  general  practice  to  plant, 
our  noble,  native  shade  trees  as  monuments 
to  commemorate  great  events.  In  many 
of  the  schools  and  colleges  an  important  part 
of  the  graduating  ceremony  is  the  planting 
of  the  "class  tree."  It  is  indeed  very  appro- 
priate to  plant  something  that  lives,  grows 
and  becomes  more  beautiful  every  year. 

Shade  Trees  About  the  House 

Shade  trees  are  used  for  many  purposes 
in  landscaping  the  home  grounds,  but  we  will 
first  consider  the  planting  around  the  home. 
Trees  should  be  planted  behind  in  order  to 
form  a  background,  and  on  the  sides  to  frame 
in  the  house,  but  they  should  never  be  planted 
directly  in  front  of  the  home,  as  this  will 
obstruct  the  view  and  detract  from  the 
general  effect  of  the  landscape  planting. 
We  often  see  the  mistake  of  planting  shade 
trees  in  the  center  of  the  front  lawn.  This 
•  -IT •!..••  .--•  -  ig  wrong  because  it 

not  only  obstructs 
the  view,  but  it  breaks 
up  the  wide  expanse 
of  the  lawn,  making  it 
appear  much  smaller 
in  extent.  It  also 
prevents  a  satisfactory 
growth  of  the  grass 
and  everyone  knows 
that  a  beautiful  green 
lawn  is  one  of  the 
most  important  parts 
of  the  landscape  plant- 
ting.  Another  point 
to  bear  in  mind  is  the 
fact  that  the  trees 
spread  very  much  as 
they  become  older 
and  for  this  reason 
it  is  not  advisable  to 
plant  them  too  close 
to  the  house,  as  it  will 
make  the  house 
damp  and  prevent 
the  entran  ce  of 
sunshine.  Sunshine 
in  the  home  is  a 
necessity. 


In  selecting  the  shrubs  for  the  groups,  be 
sure  to  get  the  kinds  which  will  have  bloom 
of  different  colors,  but  a  harmonious  combi- 
nation, and  also  shrubs  which  will  bloom 
early,  then  followed  by  those  that  will  carry 
the  bloom  throughout  the  season. 

Irregular  Outline  of  Groups 

In  laying  out  the  outline  of  the  shrub 
border  or  group,  the  front  line  of  the  group 
should  be  irregular  and  naturalistic.  Make 
the  curves  long  and  sweeping  with  bays  in 
the  shrubbery  at  irregular  intervals.  Some- 
times the  mistake  is  made  of  laying  out  a 
shrub  border  and  making  the  boundary  line 
or  front  of  the  border  in  regular,  zigzag 
curves,  all  of  the  curves  being  just  alike. 
This  is  altogether  wrong  and  is  not  in  keeping 
with  the  naturalistic  style.  Be  sure  that 
all  of  the  curves  of  the  shrub  groups  are 
irregular  and  laid  out  in  graceful  lines. 

Evergreens  in  Landscaping 

Evergreens  are  adapted  for  certain  uses 
in  landscaping.  They  have  the  advantage 
of  holding  their  foliage  not  only  in  Summer 
but  also  in  Winter.  On  the  other  hand, 
they  do  not  give  any  beautiful  bloom. 
Evergreens  are  of  rather  slow  growth,  but 
if  you  are  willing  to  wait,  they  will  make 
good  screens  for  shutting  out  undesirable 
views,  also  as  a  windbreak.  We  will  sum 
up  the  matter  of  evergreens  by  saying  that 
they  can  always  be  used  in  the  landscape 
planting,  but  they  should  be  used  in  limited 
amounts.  If  too  many  evergreens  are  used 
they  give  a  cold,  stiff  appearance. 

Shade  Trees 

In  history  and  in  art,  shade  trees  occupy 
an  important  position.  Was  it  not  under  the 
immense  American  White  Elm  at  Cambridge,' 
Massachusetts,  that  the  father  of  our  country 
took  charge  of  the  Continental  Army?  In 
many  parts  of  America  there  are  enormous 
trees — true  patriarchs  of  Nature — which 


Shade  Trees  for  Avenue,  Street 
and  Driveway 

Shade  trees  are  planted  at  regular  in- 
tervals along  avenues  and  streets.  The  distance 
of  planting  ranges  from  20  to  50  feet.  Some 
prefer  to  plant  the  trees  rather  close,  say 
20  to  25  feet,  with  the  understanding  that 
later  every  other  tree  will  be  removed  thus 
allowing  the  proper  development  of  the 
remaining  trees.  Another  plan  that  is 
followed  is  to  plant  every  other  tree  as 
a  permanent  tree,  using  for  this  purpose 
trees  of  moderate  growth,  but  which  are 
long-lived, such  as  European  Syca- 
more, Norway  Maple,  English  or 
American  Linden,  Sugar  Maple  or 
one  of  the  Oaks.  Some  of  these 
trees  we  have  just  mentioned,  such 
as  the  Norway  Maple,  European 
Sycamore,  American  White  Elm 
and  English  Linden 
are  of  fairly  rapid  -^BHl 

growth,  while  the 
Sugar  Maple  and  the 
Oaks  are  of  slower 
growth. 

In  between  the  per- 
manent trees,  which 
we  have  just  men- 
tioned, are  planted 
sonic  of  the  very 
rapid  growing  shade 
trees.  The  plan  is  to 
let  the  very  rapid 
growers  furnish  shade 
for  a  few  years  while 
the  permanent  trees 
are  getting  estab- 
lished and  becoming 
large  enough  to  fur- 
nish effective  shade. 
As  soon  as  the  trees 
begin  to  crowd,  the 
rapid  growers(or  tem- 
porary trees)  are  re- 
moved. Some  of  the 
best  trees  to  plant 


Shrubs  and  evergreens  make  this  weK-pla/Hited 

entrance  effective  at  all  times.     Note  the 

long  graceful  sweep  of  the  entrance 

walk  and  the  cozy  appearance  of 

the  home. 


for  very  quick  growth  are  the  following: 
Silver  Maple,  Box  Elder  Maple,  Catalpa 
Speciosa,  American  White  Ash,  Carolina 
Poplar,  Lombardy  Poplar,  Tulip  Tree.  Some 
of  these  trees  are  very  rapid  growers  and  of 
long  life;  can  be  used  for  permanent  planting. 
We  refer  particularly  to  Silver  Maple, 
American  White  Ash  and  Tulip  Tree. 

Street  trees,  as  a  rule,  should  be  headed 
rather  high  and  the  trunks  should  be  pro- 
tected from  injury,  such  as  the  gnawing  of 
horses.  There  are  many  ways  of  protecting 
tree  trunks,  by  the  use  of  wovenwire,  board 
protectors,  etc.  In  case  the  bark  is  injured 
the  wound  should  be  smoothed  down  and 
the  edges  cut  smooth,  then  painted.  For  full 
details  of  treatment  of  wounds  and  the  kind 
of  paint  to  use,  see  page  15. 


The  Graceful  Weeping  \Vi 

A  popular  tree  for  lawns,  parks  and  cemeteries.      Thrives  under  many 
conditions  and  is  an  exceedingly  rapid  grower.    Especially 
effective  when  planted  near  water. 


Secrets       of        Ornamental       Planting 


H inn limn i niiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiniiiniiiiiiii m iiiiiiiiiniiiiiii mil in 'iiiiiini iiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiin in 


Lawn  Trees 

There  are  certain  shade  trees  which  are 
not  adapted  for  avenue  planting  or  for  fram- 
ing in  the  house.  However,  these  trees  are 
very  effectively  used  as  individual  specimens 
or  in  groups  on  the  lawn.  Trees  of  this 
character  are  very  necessary  for  the  successful 


Silver  Maple  for  Quick  Results 

One  of  the  most  satisfactory  all-purpose  trees 
grown — for  lawn,  avenue  or  screen  planting. 

execution  of  any  landscape  planting.  We 
have  in  mind  trees  such  as  the  Weir's  Cut-Leaf 
Maple,  Catalpa  Bungei  (Umbrella  Tree), 
Weeping  Willow,  European  White  Birch, 
Cut-Leaf  Weeping  Birch,  Red  Bud  (Cercis 
Canadensis),  Russian  Olive,  Tea's  Weeping 
Mulberry,  Crimson  Leaf  Plum,  Double- 
Flowering  Crab,  Moss  Locust,  American 
Sweet  Chestnut,  Black  Walnut  and  Pecan — 
the  latter  three  trees  are  not  only  beautiful 
for  landscape  purposes,  but  they  bear  a 
nut  crop  of  splendid  quality. 

Trees  as  Screens 

Under  the  heading  of  "Shutting  Out  Unde- 
sirable Views,"  we  have  explained  the  use 
of  quick  growing  trees  for  this  pur- 
pose. Instead  of  seeing  a  neighbor's 
backyard  or  barn,  we  can  plant  quick 
growing  shade  trees,  which  will  quickly  and 
effectively  hide  undesirable  views.  Where 
very  quick  results  are  desired,  we  advise  the 
planting  of  Silver  Leaf  Maple,  Carolina 
Poplar,  Lombardy  Poplar,  Weeping  Willow 
or  Catalpa  Speciosa.  The  medium-rapid 
growers,  such  as  Linden,  Tulip  Tree,  Euro- 
pean Sycamore  can  also  be  used  for  this 
purpose,  although  the  results  would  not  be 
as  quickly  accomplished.  Evergreens  furn- 
ish screen  in  Summer  and -Winter*  although 
it  will  take  quite  a  long  time  for;  them  to 
grow  to  the  desired  height. 

Climbers 

The  following  vines  are  best  adapted  for 
planting  around  the  porches:  Hall  Japan 
Honeysuckle  (Lonicera  Halleana),  Chinese 


Wistaria  (Wistaria  Sinensis),  Japanese  Clem- 
atis, (Clematis  Paniculata),  American  Ivy 
(Ampelopsis  Quinquefolia).  In  addition  to 
these  vines,  climbing  roses  lend  themselves 
admirably  to  training  on  porches.  The 
best  climbing  roses  for  this  purpose  are  the 
Dorothy  Perkins,  Climbing  Baby  Rambler, 
Climbing  American  Beauty,  Baltimore  Belle, 
Crimson  Rambler  and  Trier. 

In  planting  the  vines  and  climbing  roses 
for  your  porch  use  several  different  kinds, 
as  they  will  blend  well  and  will  bloom  at 
different  periods.  We  suggest  the  following 
combination  of  climbers  for  porch  planting. 
Set  No.  1.  Dorothy  Perkins  rose,  Japanese 
Clematis  (Clematis  Paniculata)  and  American 
Ivy  (Ampelopsis  Quinquefolia). 

Set  No.  2.  Wistaria  Sinensis,  Dorothy 
Perkins  rose  and  Climbing  American  Beauty. 

Set  No.  3.  American  Ivy  (Ampelopsis 
Quinquefolia),  Baltimore  Belle  rose  and  Hall 
Japan  Honeysuckle  (Lonicera  Halleana). 

Climbers  for  the  Trellis  and  House 

On  arbors,  pergolas  or  trellises,  vines  and 
climbing  roses  give  a  very  pleasing  effect. 
The  aim  should  be  to  practically  cover  the 
entire  trellis  or  arbor.  Any  of  the  combi- 
nations suggested  for  the  porch  will  be  well 
adapted  for  use  on  arbors. 

Old  tree  trunks,  or  similar  unsightly  objects, 
may  be  entirely  covered  with  vines.  For 
this  purpose,  American  Ivy  (Ampelopsis 
Quinquefolia),  Wistaria,  Honeysuckle  or 
Dorothy  Perkins  rose  are  best  suited. 

The  best  vines  for  covering  the  house  are 
American  Ivy  and  Boston  Ivy. 

These  splendid  vines  cling  to  the  wall  by 
their  own  means  and  do  not  need  any  addi- 
tional support.  There  is  nothing  more  beau- 
tiful than  a  brick,  stone  or  concrete  building 
covered  with  these  magnificent  vines.  They 
make  the  house  much  cooler  in  Summer. 
For  centuries  vines  of  this  kind  have  been 
used  on  the  famous  old  castles  of  Europe. 

Covering  Steep  Banks 

Frequently  we  are  confronted  with  the 
problem  of  securing  a  green  ground  cover  on 
steep  banks  where  it  is  impractical  or  im- 
possible to  get  a  stand  of  grass.  We  ^have 
seen  steep  red-clay  banks,  which  were  con- 
tinually caving  in  and  were  unsightly,  made 
beautiful  by  planting  Honeysuckle  and 
Dorothy  Perkins  rose,  which,  in  a  very 
short  space  of  time  entirely  covered  the  clay 
bank  with  a  solid  mat  of  bright  green.  When 
the  roses  were  in  bloom  it  was  indeed  a 
wonderful  sight.  (Full  description  of  all  the 
best  climbers  are  given  on  page  25.) 

Hedges — Living  Fences 

One  of  the 
most  popu- 
lar hedge 
plants  is 
the  Califor- 
nia Privet. 
This  is  a 
very  rapid 
growing 
plant  which 
forms  a  sol- 
i  d ,  even 
green  wall, 
and  is  eas- 
ily trimmed. 


However,  it  is  sometimes  winter-killed  and  not 
adapted  for  Northern  sections.  There  are 
other  splendid  Privets  such  as  the  Amoor 
River  (Northern  type),  which  is  hardy  and 
has  a  beautiful,  fine  foliage.  This  splendid 
hedge  should  be  more  largely  planted  as  it  is 
a  rapid,  hardy  grower  and  satisfactory  in 
every  respect.  The  Ibota  is  perhaps  the 
hardiest  of  all  the  Privets.  It  is  very  upright 
and  has  long,  pointed,  glossy  leaves.  The 
common  privet  (Vulgaris)  is  also  popular. 

Barberry — The  Best  and  Hardiest 

The  Japanese  Barberry  as  a  hedge  has  more 
good  qualities  to  commend  it  and  fewer  faults 
than  any  we  know.  It  is  of  spreading  growth 
and  reaches  only  medium  height.  Its  foliage 
is  a  beautiful  light  green,  and  it  has  a  small 
yellow  flower.  The  small  thorns  serve  as  a 
protection  from  intrusion.  Oblong  berries 
of  a  bright  red  color  hang  on  during  the  winter. 
This  is  one  of  its  most  valuable  characteristics, 
as  very  few  hedges  have  any  great  beauty 
during  the  winter  months.  In  addition  to 
its  other  good  points,  Japanese  Barberry  is 
of  iron-clad  hardiness. 

Naturalistic  Hedges 

Other  plants  which  make  good  hedges  are 
the  Spirea  Van  Houttei,  Philadelphus  Coron- 
arius,  Lilacs,  Japanese  Rose  (Rosa  Rugosa), 
Weigela  and  Snowberry.  Hedges  of  any  of 
the  plants  just  mentioned  need  not  be 
trimmed  after  the  first  year  or  two,  but  if 
left  to  grow  naturally  will  be  very  satisfactory. 
Spirea  Van  Houttei  is  one  of  the  best  shrubs 
for  making  a  naturalistic  hedge.  After  two 
or  three  years  its  branches  begin  to  droop 
over  in  graceful  curves  clear  to  the  ground 
(Illustrated  on  page  25).  The  foliage  is  of  a 
splendid  green,  and  when  it  is  in  bloom  in  the 
Spring  it  appears  as  a  "snowbank  of  flowers." 

The  Japanese  Rose  (Rosa  Rugosa)  and  the 
Rugosa  Hybrids  such  as  Conrad  F.  Meyer 
make  an  excellent  hedge,  as  they  are  excep- 
tionally vigorous  growers  with  splendid 
foliage.  The  thorns  act  as  a  protection,  and 
the  attractive  pink  and  white  blossoms  are 
followed  by  large,  orange-red  seed  pods  which 
have  a  good  landscape  value  in  the  Fall 
after  the  blossoms  are  gone. 

However,  where  a  low  flowering  hedge  is 
desired,  the  Baby  Rambler  type  (Dwarf 
Polyantha)  makes  excellent  hedges.  These 
roses  are  not  only  hardy,  but  they  are  excep- 
tionally free  blooming — they  are  laden  with 
masses  of  flowers  from  Spring  until  late  Fall. 
Some  of  the  best  varieties  for  this  purpose 
are  the  Clothilde  Soupert  (Flesh  Colored) 
Baby  Rambler  (Red),  Jessie  (Pink),  etc. 


••^•MMMHHMMMMMIMMMHMMMMMBi^iHHHHHII^H^HH^^IH 

A  Garden  Retreat — Simplicity 


Honeysuckle  and  Rose  Hedge 


One  type  of  hedge  of  great  beauty  and  also  one 
which  gives  excellent  protection  from  intrusion,  is 
the  following:  a  strong  woven  wire  fence  of  med- 
ium height  is  placed  where  the  hedge  is  desired;  at 
intervals  of  three  or  four  feet  are  planted  (alter- 
nately) Hall  Japan  Honeysuckle  and  Dorothy  Perkins 
rose,  which  will  quickly  make  a  solid,  impenetrable 
hedge.  Other  combinations  for  this  same  purpose 
are  the  Hall  Japan  Honeysuckle,  and  Trier  rose. 
Another  combination  is  American  Ivy  (Ampelopsis 
Quinquefolia),  Dorothy  Perkins  rose  and  Hall  Japan 
Honeysuckle;  and  there  are  a  number  of  other 
combinations  that  will  give  equally  as_  good  results. 


A  Charming  Veranda  View 

A  simple   informal    planting    of  shrubs  adds  brightness  and  cheer  to  the  home.     Attractive    both 
to  the  owner  who  gazes  from  his  porch  and  to  the  stranger  who  passes  by. 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 

nniiiiiiiiinniiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^  


Establishing  the  Lawn 

The  lawn  is  one  of  the  most  important  parts 
of  any  successfully  planted  property  and  it 
should  be  maintained  in  proper  condition. 
Before  sowing  any  grass  seed  make  sure  that 
the  ground  is  properly  drained  (sometimes  it 
is  necessary  to  put  in  tiled  drainage  although 
surface  drainage  is  generally  sufficient).  The 
soil  should  be  first  plowed  (or  spaded).  On  a 
lar^e  percentage  of  lawns  lime  should  be 
added.  After  you  have  spaded  or  plowed  the 
soil,  scatter  lime  over  the  surface  of  the 


convenient  location  of  the  garden  in  reference 
to  the  house  is  very  important.  We  have 
already  explained  the  necessity  for  using 
shrub  plantings  to  screen  off  the  garden  from 
the  public  portion  of  the  grounds.  For  the 
same  reason  the  planting  between  the  garden 
and  the  entrance  driveway  should  be  so 
planned  that  visitors  can  not  see  the  garden. 

The  Garden 

In  the  garden  the  design  of  the  beds  and 
other  features  of  the  formal  work  is  of  equal 
importance  as  compared  with  the  horticul- 


Let  Stark  Bro's  plant  your  home  grounds  like  this  and  develop  them  so  you  will  reap  the  fullest 
enjoyment.     Our  Experts  choose  plants  adapted  to  your  soil  and  climate.     Stark 
ornamentals  are  planted  successfully  from  coast  to  coast. 


ground.  The  best  kind  of  lime  to  use  is 
either  the  ordinary  ground  limestone  (Cal- 
cium Carbonate)  or  air-slaked  lime — these 
are  the  easiest  and  most  agreeable  forms  to 
handle.  The  lime  should  be  scattered  over 
the  ground  so  the  general  appearance  of  the 
ground  will  be  white.  A  safe  rule  to  follow 
would  be  to  use  about  one-half  ton  on  a 
square  area  with  100  ft.  sides.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  roll  and  »ake  the  surface  so  as  to  get 
it  even  and  smooth.  Seed  can  be  sown  either 
in  the  early  Fall  or  Spring.  Very  often  it  is 
recommended  to  sow  the  grass  seed  in  the  late 
winter  or  early  Spring  when  the  last  snow  is 
on  the  ground. 

For  a  square  area  with  100  ft.  sides  sow 
about  a  bushel.  The  sowing  of  the  grass  seed 
should  be  done  on  a  quiet  day  so  it  can  be  dis- 
tributed evenly.  You  can  sow  the  seed  by 
hand,  then  lightly  rake  the  seed.  Protect  the 
young  seed  from  any  trespassers.  The  best 
permanent  lawn  is  grown  from  Kentucky  Blue 
Grass,  but  it  does  not  become  established 
quickly.  For  quick  results  a-  mixture  of  the 
following  will  be  satisfactory:  Kentucky 
Blue  Grass,  Red  Top  and  English  Rye  in  the 
proportions  of  4-2-1.  For  shady  locations 
the  following  combination  would  give  satis- 
factory results:  Kentucky  Blue  Grass, 
Wood  Meadow  Grass,  Various-leaved  Fescue 
and  Crested  Dog's-tail  used  at  the  rate  of 
2-2-1-1  in  order  above  named. 

Manure  should  be  applied  in  the  Fall  or 
very  early  Spring.  However,  manure  has  the 
disadvantage  of  carrying  more  or  less  weed 
seed  which  may  become  established  in  the 
lawn,  but  you  can  keep  weeds  cut  out. 

The  Private  Grounds 

No  matter  whether  we  call  the  private 
grounds  by  the  name  of  garden,  out-of-doors 
living  room  or  backyard,  it  should  be  made 
attractive  and  liveable — a  place  where  all  the 
family  will  be  glad  to  linger  after  the  day's 
work  is  done.  The  private  grounds  may 
consist  of  simply  a  lawn  enclosed  by  shrub- 
bery borders  and  possibly  a  perennial  planting 
in  front  of  the  larger  shrubs.  However,  in 
most  cases  the  private  portion  of  the  grounds 
consists  largely  of  the  flower  and  rose  garden. 
The  garden  should  be  closely  connected  with 
the  house,  as  it  is  just  a  second  living  room, 
which  is  used  in  the  Spring  and  Summer 
even  more  largely  than  the  living  room 
indoors.  Therefore,  it  will  be  seen  that  a 


tural  or  plant  material  features  of  the  garden. 
In  laying  out  the  formal  garden  it  is  well  to 
bear  in  mind  that  as  near  as  possible  the 
garden  should  be  on  an  even  level  or  a 
regular,  even  slope.  If  the  ground  is  too 
steep  to  secure  this  result  a  series  of  terraces 
can  be  used.  In  the  formal  garden  we  must 
keep  away  from  the  irregular,  naturalistic 
lines.  In  other  words,  the  design  of  the 
garden  is  regular  and  architectural  in  spirit. 
The  garden  is  generally  laid  out  so  that  the 
entire  plan  can  be  seen  at  a  glance.  The 
design  of  the  garden  is  more  a  matter  of 
regular  shaped  beds  and  walks  instead  of  an 
irregular,  naturalistic  planting.  The  walks 
and  beds  of  the  garden  are  made  up  of  a  series 
of  straight  lines  or  arcs  of  circles.  There 
are  no  irregular  winding  paths.  In  the 
formal  garden  the  plant  materials  are  used 
to  emphasize  the  architectural  and  formal 
lines  in  addition  to  the  horticultural  beauty 
of  the  plant  itself.  The  garden  should  be 
located  so  that  the  central  walk  or  axis  will 
be  on  a  direct  line  with  the  main  view  from 
the  house.  Very  often  a  doorway  leading 
out  from  the 

living   room  of 

the    house    will 

form   the   chief 

viewpoint    and 

the  main  walk 

or    axis   of   the 

garden    should 

be  on  a  direct 

line    with    the 

doorway.     The 

axis  of  the  gar- 
den has  been 

called    the 

"backbone"  of 

the  design.    On 

this   main   axis 

a  garden  should 

be    balanced— 

each    side    the 

same    size    and 

value     as     the 

opposite     side. 

Study  the  plan 

of    the    garden 

on      page       3. 

Note    how    the 

main     axis     is 

centered  on  the 

entrance     from 

the  house. 


The  Garden  of  Flowers 

When  we  speak  of  the  garden,  we  have  in 
mind  the  flower  or  pleasure  garden.  There 
is,  of  course,  a  second  meaning  to  the  use  of 
the  term  "garden,"  namely,  the  service  or 
vegetable  garden.  For  full  explanation  of 
Service  and  Vegetable  Garden  see  page  14. 
In  this  chapter  we  will  confine  ourselves 
entirely  to  treatment  of  the  pleasure  or  flower 
garden. 

Formal  in  Treatment 

Although  we  have  stated  in  previous  pages 
that  the  planting  which  is  most  adaptable 
to  American  homes  and  the  American  climate 
is  the  Naturalistic  style,  nevertheless  the 
Formal  style  enters  in  to  the  planning  of  the 
flower  garden  to  a  certain  degree. 

The  design  of  arrangement  of  the  beds  is 
formal  in  outline — this  is  due  largely  to  the 
fact  that  if  the  beds  are  laid  out  in  even, 
regular  shapes  they  can  be  much  more  easily 
cared  for  and  will  give  more  satisfactory 
results.  Also,  the  garden  should  be  formal, 
because  it  is,  in  a  sense,  a  transition  between 
the  formal  lines  of  architecture  in  the  house 
and  the  surrounding  naturalistic  planting. 
The  formal  garden  is  a  sort  of  a  half-way 
point  between  the  architectural  house  and 
the  irregular,  naturalistic  planting  of  the 
surrounding  property. 

Garden  Objects 

The  formal  garden  is  also  characterized 
by  garden  objects  or  architectural  features, 
such  as  seats,  summer  or  garden  houses,  per- 
golas, sundials,  statuary,  etc.,  also  water  mir- 
rors, which  are  nothing  but  regular  shaped 
pools  of  water  which  are  used  with  good  effect 
in  the  formal  garden — they  can  be  planted 
with  water  lillies  or  kept  clear  of  plants  and 
thus  used  as  a  natural  reflecting  mirror. 

In  planting  the  garden  you  should  decide 
on  what  your  exact  requirements  are.  You 
should  know  to  what  use  you  are  going  to  put 
the  garden — when  you  expect  to  enjoy  and  use 
it  the  most.  If  you  are  going  to  be  away 
from  home  during  a  certain  portion  of  the 
year,  you  want  to  use  flowers  and  roses  which 
will  bloom  before  you  plan  to  leave  and  also 
to  include  plants  which  will  be  in  their  glory 
when  you  return  to  your  home. 

Different  Types  of  Gardens 

There  are  several  types  of  gardens,  in  so 
far  as  the  character  of  plants  to  be  used  is 
concerned.  » 

First,  we  have  the  flower  'garden,  which 
is  made  up  solely  of  annual  and  perennial 
plants.  These  plants  either  die  down  to  the 
ground  or  are  entirely  killed  out  by  the 
Winter.  .  .  ;„„  . 

Second,  is  the  rose  garden,  in  which  many 
different  types  of  roses  are1  .used.  For 
full  details  of  Roses  see  The  Rose  Garden, 
page  26. 

Combination  Garden 

However,  both  the  flower  and  rose  garden 
have  their  good  points  and  probably  the 
logical  garden  for  most  home  grounds  is  a 
"Combination  Flower  and  Rose  Garden." 


[13] 


Right  in  the  Heart  of  the  City 

Your  back  yard  can  be  trans- 
formed into  a  garden  spot 
like  this. 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 


The  Walks  of  the  Garden 

The  garden  walks  should  preferably 
be  of  grass.  The  green  turf  is  more  in 
harmony  with  the  growing  plants  of  the 
garden.  Grass  walks  are  easy  to  keep  in 
condition;  by  proper  care,  the  edges  of  the 
beds  can  be  maintained  in  a  smooth,  regular 
manner.  The  grass  walk  is  in  itself  a  thing 
of  beauty. 

Gravel  walks  are  sometimes  used  in  the 
garden,  but  they  are  not  beautiful  and  it  is 
rather  difficult  to  keep  the  gravel  separated 
in  distinct  lines  from  the  flower  beds.  This 
is  accomplished  sometimes  by  maintaining 
a  narrow  strip  of  turf  between  the  gravel 
walk  and  the  bed,  or  a  small  edging  of  dwarf 
plants  can  be  used. 

It  is  important  that  the  garden  walks 
should  be  of  sufficient  width  to  accommodate 
several  persons  walking  abreast.  To  see 
the  walks  of  a  garden  narrow  and  cramped 
detracts  greatly  from  the  general  effect  of 
the  design.  Of  course  the  main  walk  or 
axis  of  the  garden  should  be  considerably 
wider  than  the  cross-walks,  although  it  will 
depend  to  a  large  extent  on  the  size  of  the 
garden,  but  it  is  a  safe  rule  to  say  that  the 
main  walk  should  never  be  narrower  than 
five  or  six  feet,  and  in  many  cases,  it  should 
run  up  as  high  as  10  or  12  feet  in  width. 

Annual  Plants 

In  the  formal  garden  annual  plants  are 
very  often  used  (when  we  refer  to  annual 
plants,  we  mean  those  kinds  which  die  out 
every  Winter,  and  which  must  be  purchased 
and  set  out  each  season).  This  results  in 
annual  expenditure  which  may  run  into  quite 
a  sum.  On  the  other  hand,  if  hardy  peren- 
nials and  roses  are  planted,  they  are  perma- 
nent. After  they  have  been  carefully  planted 
out  and  have  become  established,  they  do 


Snowberry 

(Symphoricarpus 

racemosus.) 


not  require  additional  expense  for  replacing 
as  is  the  case  with  annual  plants.  We 
advise  very  strongly  the  increased  use  of 
roses  and  hardy  perennials. 

A  Perennial  Border 

The  border  of  old-fashioned  perennials 
(plants  which  die  to  the  ground  each  winter, 
but  come  up  every  year)  is  very  popular  these 
days — and  deservedly  so.  Perennials  grow- 
very  freely  and  because  they  are  perma- 
nent, they  are  economical  as  one  doesn't 
have  to  buy  new  plants  every  year. 
After  once  setting  them  out  they  become 
stronger  and  finer  with  each  year's 
growth.  The  perennial  border  does 
not  have  to  be  planted  in  regular 
shaped  beds.  It  can  be  planted 
irregularly  in  front  of  the  shrub  groups 
or  borders  and  the  green  foliage  of  the 
shrubs  will  form  a  splendid  background 
or  the  beautiful  colored  blooms  of  the 
perennials.  Of  course  perennials  are 

Elanted  with  very  good  effect  in  the 
eds  of  the  formal  garden,  but  the  true 
perennial  border  is  generally  planted 
in  front  of  the  shrubs,  as  we  have  just 
explained.  In  the  formal  garden, 
which  is  surrounded  by  a  planting  of 
shrubbery,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  plant  a 

Eerennial  border  in  front  of  the  shrub- 
ery  in  addition  to  using  some  perennials 
in  the  beds  of  the  garden.  Some  of  the 
splendid  perennials  that  have  been  popular 
in  our  grandmother's  day  and  are  still  used 
with  splendid  effect  are  the  following:  Phlox, 
Iris,  Chrysanthemum,  Columbine,  Anemone, 
etc.  See  description  on  page  19. 

However,  the  most  popular  and  the  finest 
of  all  perennial  plants  is  the  paeony.  For 
generations  this  splendid  plant  has  main- 
tained a  deserved  popularity  equalled  by 
no  other  perennial  flower.  It  blooms  in 
early  Spring  when  its  enormous  brilliant 
colored  blooms  attract  an  unusual  amount 
of  interest  and  attention,  especially  so  because 
it  is  in  its  glory  just  about  Memorial  Day. 
The  paeony  thrives  in  nearly  every  part  of 
the  United  States,  becomes  established  easily 
and  is  the  source  of  an  annual  supply  of 
beautiful  bloom.  In  our  grandmothers' 
day,  the  list  of  paeonies  was  very  limited, 
but  now  with  the  many  marvelous  new  va- 
rieties, we  have  practically  every  desirable 
color  and  the  season  of  bloom  is  extended 
over  a  long  period.  We  cannot 
too  strongly  recommend  a  plant- 
ing of  paeonies  that  will  succeed 
with  practically  no  care  or  at- 
tention, although  they  respond 
quickly  to  good  treatment. 
See  descriptions  on  page  24. 

The  Shape  of  Flower  Beds 


pie  shapes,  such  as  squares,  long  rectan- 
gular shapes,  with  possibly  a  few  circular  beds 
are  to  be  desired.  The  beds  should  not  be  too 
wide  on  account  of  convenience  in  picking 
the  flowers.  A  safe  rule  to  follow  is  this: 
Do  not  make  the  beds  any  wider  than  a 
distance  that  can  be  half  reached  across  from 
either  side.  By  picking  the  flowers  from  both 
sides  of  the  bed  you  can  thus  conveniently 
reach  all  of  the  blooms. 


Eugene  Furst 

A  rich  red  rose  of  surpass- 
ing beauty. 


Paul  Neyron 

Largest  of  all  roses.    Near- 
ly thornless. 


Keeping  the  Beds  Regular 

It  will  be  found  difficult  sometimes  to 
maintain  the  edge  of  the  beds  where  it  comes 
next  to  the  sod  in  a  straight,  even  line.  By 
use  of  a  sharp  spade  and  cutting  the  edge  of 
the  turf  after  stretching  a  string  for  guiding, 
an  even,  regular  outline  of  the-  bed  can  be 
maintained.  In  some  gardens,  especially 
where  gravel  walks  are  used,  an  edging  of 
some  small  dwarfish  growing  plants  is  used 
to  mark  the  edge  of  the  beds.  In  the  Mis- 
souri Botanical  Gardens  of  St.  Louis  there  is  a 
very  effective  use  of  Japanese  Barberry  as 
an  edging  in  one  of  the  small  formal  gardens. 
It  is  necessary  to  keep  the  Barberry  trimmed 
very  close  so  it  will  not  get  very  large,  but 
it  makes  a  very  compact  and  neat  edging. 

In  an  edging  where  it  is  not  desired  to  use 
an  edging  plant  or  to  keep  the  edge  of  the 
beds  cut  in  smooth,  straight  lines,  a  good 
permanent  method  of  marking  the  edge  of 
the  beds  is  to  form  an  edging  of  bricks,  which 
are  set  in  the  ground  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees 
They  should  be  set  far  enough  in  the  ground 
so  that  they  do  not  come  above  the  turf  edge 
more  than  two  or  three  inches. 

Service  Grounds 

We  have  already  taken  up  an  explanation 
of  three  divisions  of  the  home  grounds. 

First,  the  semi-public  part;  second,  the 
private  part  of  the  grounds,  and  third,  the 
service  portion. 

The  service  grounds  shou|d  be  entirely 
separated  from  the  semi-public  and  the  pri- 
vate grounds.  Although  it  will  vary  with 
each  property,  the  service  portion  may  con- 
sist of  the  drying  yard,  service  walk  (leading 
from  the  house  to  garage  or  stable),  also  the 
walk  leading  from  house  to  the  vegetable  or 
fruit  garden.  By  using  screens  of  high 
shrubbery  and  even  trees,  the  service  section 
can  be  entirely  shut  out  from  view. 


In  considering  the  shape  of  the 
flower  beds,  it  should  be  remem- 
bered that  they  form  a  part  of  the  formal 
garden  and  therefore  they  should  consist 
of  regular  shapes.  Avoid  all  elaborate 
and  fancy  shaped  beds.  These  unusual 
and  elaborately  shaped  beds  are  undesir- 
able because  they  are  very  inconvenient 
and  difficult  to  maintain.  They  are  not 
beautiful  nor  are  they  in  harmony  with 
the  formal  garden. 

In  laying  out  the  beds  remember  that 
simplicity  is  always  to  be  preferred.    Sim- 

Service  Garden 

In  the  service  garden  we  have  a  vegetable 
and  fruit  section,  also  roses  and  flower  plants  can  be 
planted  in  the  service  garden  to  furnish  an  abundance 
of  cut  flowers  for  the  home. 

Where  the  space  of  the  service  garden  is  limited, 
the  use  of  dwarf  fruit  trees  is  advisable.  Stark  Bro's 
grow  a  complete  list  of  the  dwarf  fruit  trees  for  the 
special  purpose  of  providing  smaller  trees  for  the  fruit 
garden.  Dwarf  apples  can  be  planted  as  close  as  12 
or  14  feet  apart.  Dwarf  pears  the  same.  We  grow 
a  complete  list  of  varieties  especially  adapted  for  the 
home  fruit  garden.  By  planting  the  dwarf  trees  they 
will  bear  younger  and  you  can  plant  many  more  of 
the  trees  on  a  limited  space  than  if  the  regular  or  stan- 
dard trees  were  used.  See  complete  list  on  page  25. 

Care  of  Plants  on  Arrival 

When  your  trees  and  shrubs  arrive,  you  should. 
plant  them  at  once  if  possible;- however,  if  they  come 
during  frosty  weather,  place  them  unopened  in  a  cool, 
dry  cellar,  free  from  frost.  When  the  weather  moder- 
ates, unpack,  and  shake  out  the  packing  of  moss  and 
fibre  before  planting.  Do  not  expose  the  roots  to 
sun,  air,  wind  or  frost. 


Just  a  Glimpse     ' 

e  fields  Stark  Bro's  devote  exclusively  to 

ornamental  stock— every  plant  a 
pecimen  grown  by  experts. 


[14] 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


Practical  Suggestions 

(The   following   directions,    if    followed,    will 

prevent    many    unfortunate    and    costly 

mistakes.) 

When  to  Plant 

The  time  of  planting  can  be  covered  in  the 
broad  assertion  that  either  Fall  or  Spring 
planting  is  satisfactory. 

Shrubbery  and  shade  trees  do  exceptionally 
well  when  planted  in  the  Fall,  although  this 
fact  is  not  known  by  most  people.  Therefore 
most  shrubbery  and  trees  are  usually  planted 
in  the  Spring.  The  very  hardy  roses  can  be 
planted  in  the  Fall,  although  as  a  rule  roses 
should  be  planted  in  the  Spring.  After  the 
roses  have  had  one  season's  growth  and 
become  estabjished  they  will  go  through 
the  Winter  without  injury  if  given  a  very 
little  attention.  For  details,  see  The  Rose 
Garden,  page  26.  The  time  of  planting  is 
hirgely  a  matter  of  your  convenience.  If 
you  have  your  grounds  ready,  plant  in  the 
Fall,  but  if  you  are  not  ready  until  Spring,  do 
the  planting  then — suit  your  own  convenience. 

Planting  Shrub  Borders 

First,  stake  out  the  outlines  of  your  shrub 
groups  or  borders.  We  have  already  spoken 
in  previous  chapters  about  the  planting  of 
shrubs  in  groups  and  borders  with  irregular 
outlines,  in  order  to  secure  a  naturalistic 
effect.  In  making  the  outline  of  the  border 
or  group,  a  limp  rope  can  be  laid  loosely  on 
the  ground  and  arranged  so  as  to  form  round- 
ed and  graceful  curves  with  deep  bays.  Then 
the  outline  can  be  marked  with  a  spade.  An- 
other method  is  to  use  a  rake  handle  or  a 
stick  to  mark  the  outline.  If  you  have  not  a 
detailed  plan,  it  is  best  to  sketch  out  on  a 
piece  of  paper  the  general  outline  of  the  group 
and  border  planting,  and  then  this  outline 
can  be  transferred  to  the  ground. 

Plant  Irregular  and  Natural  Groups 

In  planting  the  groups  and  masses  of  shrubs, 
it  is  advisable  to  spade  up  all  of  the  ground 
where,  the  shrubs  are  to  be  planted  and  to 
.smooth  it  over  by  hoeing  or  cultivation,  mix- 
ing  in  well  rotted  manure  if  possible.  Be  sure 
to  plant  the  shrubs  in  an  irregular  manner — • 
not  in  straight  rows  or  lines.  However, 
enough  shrubs  of  each  kind  should  be 
planted  together  in  the  different  groups  in 
order  to  form  a  definite  effect  of  color  or  tone. 
The  larger  shrubs,  of  course,  are  planted  in 
the  middle  of  the  clumps;  the  lower, 
dwarfish  growers  are  planted  in  front  of  the 
taller  ones  and  on  the  outside  of  the  groups. 

Distance  Between  Shrubs 

In  planting  shrubs,  the  distance  between 
the  plants  should  be  regulated  somewhat 
by  the  character  of  growth;  for  instance,  a 
large  growing  shrub  such  as  Snowball  or 
Philadelphus  should  not  be  planted  closer 
than  three  and  one-half  to  four  feet  between 
plants.  Shrubs  of  medium-  growth  can  be 
planted  three  or  three  and  one-half  feet  apart. 
In  this  class  are  Spirea  Van  Houttei,  Weigela, 
Hydrangeas,  etc.  Smaller  growing  plants 
such  as  Japanese  Bar- 
berry and  Snowberry, 
can  be  planted  as  close- 
ly as  two  or  two  and 
one-half  feet.  Plant- 
ing at  these  distances 
will  give  the  desired 
effect  very  quickly, 
however,  if  you  are 
willing  to  wait  longer 
to  get  the  effect  of 
shrubbery  masses,  you 
can  plant  the  shrubs 
further  apart. 

How  to  Plant 

We  have  already 
spoken  of  the  planting 
distance  for  shade 
trees.  Note  paragraphs 
on  page  11.  The  dis- 
tance between  street 
t  roes  ranges  from  20  to 
40  feet.  When  clumps 
of  shade  trees  are 
planted,  they  can  be 
set  as  close  as  8  to  10 
feet,  with  the  under- 
standing that  some  of 
them  will  be  eu>t  out 


later.  In  planting  a  tree  or  shrub,  dig  large, 
deep  holes,  which  will  receive  the  roots 
easily  without  crowding  or  bending.  Keep 
the  top,  rich  soil  separate  from  the  bottom 
soil,  and  then  when  the  tree  is  planted,  this 
top  soil  can  be  worked  in  around  the  roots. 
Be  sure  to  prune  the  roots  of  your  trees — that 
is,  cut  off  all  the  broken  and  bruised  ends, 
making  a  slanting  cut  with  a  sharp  knife, 
cutting  from  the  under  side  so  the  cut  sur- 
face will  rest  against  the  bottom  soil. 

The  tree  should  be  planted  at  about  the 
same  depth  it  stood  in  the  nursery  row, 
sometimes  two  inches  deeper.  The  dark 
ring  at  the  base  of  the  trunk  shows  the  depth 
the  tree  stood  in  the  nursery.  Throw  in  some 
of  the  best  top  soil  and  work  it  in  well  about 
the  roots.  Tramp  and  pound  the  soil 
in  hard,  leaving  no  air  pockets  around  the 
roots.  Fill  the  hole  three-fourths  full,  and  if 
the  soil  is  very  dry,  several  gallons  of  water 
can  be  poured  in  at  that  time,  although 
the  soil  is  generally  moist  enough  without  the 
water.  After  letting  the  water  sink  in  fill  up 
the  hole  with  loose  dirt,  being  sure  not  to 
tramp  the  top  two  or  three  inches  of  soil. 
When  planting  in  the  Fall,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  mound  up  the  dirt  around  the  tree  or 
shrub  to  a  height  of  6  to  10  inches.  This 
can  be  raked  down  level  the  next  Spring. 
It  is  a  good  practice  to  place  well  rotted 
manure  about  the  base  of  the  tree  or  shrub 
on  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Also,  a  mulch  of  dead  grass  and  leaves 
can  be  raked  up  about  newly  planted  trees.. 
This  will  help  to  prevent  the  evaporation  of 
moisture  in  the  ground  and  will  also  furnish 
plant  food  as  it  rots. 

How  to  Plant  a  Hedge 

In  planting  the  hedge,  dig  a  trench  about 
one  foot  wide  and  12  to  18  inches  deep. 
Keep  the  top  soil  separate  from  the  bottom 
soil.  The  plants  should  be  set  8  to  10  inches 
apart.  This  applies  to  Privets,  Barberry 
and  similar  plants,  while  the  larger  shrubs 
like  Spirea  Van  Houttei  and  Philadelphus 
can  be  planted  12  to  18  inches  apart.  The 
hedge  may  be  set  in  a  single  row,  or  if  a  quick 
effect  is  desired,  set  two  rows  of  plants  leaving 
about  10  inches  between  the  rows;  and  the 
plants  in  the  rows  are  set  8  inches  apart  and 
alternated.  In  planting  the  hedge,  work 
in  the  rich  top  soil  around  the  roots  and  tramp 
it  in  hard.  A  mulch  of  well  rotted  manure 
can  be  placed  on  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Pruning  Shade  Trees 

Although  there  are  exceptions,  the  general 
rule  for  pruning 
shade  trees  and 
shrubs  is  to  do  as 
little  pruning  as 
possible  —  only 
enough  to  keep  the 
dead  and  broken 
limbs  cut  out  and 
to  thin  out  the  old 
branches  of  the 
shrubs  when  they 
become  too  thick. 

Shade  trees    can 
be    pruned    in  any 


season,  but  the  best  time  to  prune  is  in  late 
Winter  or  early  Spring.  Pruning  at  this 
time  causes  the  trees  to  make  a  more  vigorous 
growth.  It  is  much  better  to  prune  the  trees 
a  little  every  year,  cutting  out  all  broken,  rot- 
ted or  undesirable  branches  rather  than  make 
severe  prunings  at  long  intervals.  In  cut- 
ting out  the  big  branches,  use  a  saw,  and 
cut  the  branch  close  to  the  trunk  and  nearly 
parallel  with  it. 

Frequently,  it  is  desired  to  repair  the 
rotted  parts  of  trees.  Cavities  in  the  trunks 
of  the  trees  can  be  filled  with  concrete,  and 
this  will  frequently  result  in  the  saving  of 
splendid  shade  trees.  In  filling  these  cavities, 
it  is  absolutely  essential  to  cut  out  and 
remove  all  the  decayed  wood,  and  then  to 
wash  this  decayed  wood  with  an  antiseptic 
such  as  Corrosive  Sublimate  (1  part  to  1000 
parts  water)  (Poison — handle  carefully)  or  with 
some  good  paint  such  as  White  Lead.  Then 
the  whole  cavity  can  be  filled  with  cement 

Pruning  Shrubs 

Immediately  after  planting  shrubs,  the 
tops  should  be  headed  back  one-third  or  one- 
half  of  their  growth,  as  this  will  tend  to  make 
them  become  more  dense  and  more  bushy. 
After  the  first  year  or  two,  shrubs  will  not 
need  much  pruning — just  enough  to  keep 
the  old  dead  wood  cut  out  and  in  a  vigorous 
growing  condition. 

In  pruning  shrubs,  keep  in  mind  their 
blooming  habit,  that  is,  whether  they  bloom  on 
new  wood  or  on  the  growth  made  during  the 
previous  season.  Most  of  the  Spring  flower- 
ing shrubs  bloom  on  the  last  season's  growth. 
This  is  true  in  the  case  of  the  Spirea 
Van  Houttei,  Weigela,  Forsythia,  Lilacs, 
Viburnums,  Wistaria,  and  for  this  reason 
these  plants  should  not  be  pruned  until 
after  they  have  bloomed.  Most  of  the  sum- 
mer blooming  shrubs,  like  Hydrangeas, 
Philadelphus  (Mock  Orange),  Hibiscus  (Rose 
of  Sharon)  and  bush  roses  bloom  on  the  wood 
which  has  been  grown  during  the  same  season, 
and  therefore,  they  should  be  pruned  heavily 
in  late  winter  or  very  early  Spring,  causing 
them  to  make  a  vigorous  growth  the  following 
Summer. 

Pruning  the  Hedge 

Immediately  after  planting,  the  hedge 
should  be  headed  back.  The  Privets  should 
be  cut  back  to  within  4  to  6  inches  of  the 
ground.  Japanese  Barberry,  Spirea,  Phila- 
delphus and  Rosa  Rugosa  should  have  the 
tops  cut  back  one-half  of  their  growth, 
immediately  after  planting.  For  the  firs 


A  vine-covered  porch  showing  the  uses  of  American  Ivy,  also  a  founda- 
tion planting  of  hardy  Spirea,   Hydrangea  and  other  shrubs. 


An  interesting  sky  line.     Try  to  imagine  how 
unattractive  this  home  would  be  if  there 
were  no  trees  near  it. 

two  years,  trim  the  hedge  frequently,  keeping 
it  cut  low  and  bushy.  In  pruning,  cut  back 
the  growth  to  within  two  inches  of  the  last 
pruning — that  is,  leave  two  inches  of  growth 
each  time  the  hedge  is  cut. 

Paint  for  Covering  Wounds 

As  mentioned  in  a  previous  paragraph, 
White  Lead  is  one  of  the  best  paints  for 
covering  tree  wounds,  but  you  should  be 
sure  to  use  pure  White  Lead  mixed  with  raw 
Linseed  Oil.  Do  not  use  a  house  paint  or 
Any  paint  which  has  a  drier.  Mix  the  White 
Lead  to  about  the  consistency  of  buttermilk, 
and  if  a  dark  color  is  desired,  add  lampblack. 


Shade  and   Ornamental  Trees 


A  home  without  shade  trees  is  difficult  to 
imagine.  You  may  have  a  house  without 
trees,  but  never  a  true  home.  Trees  give  a 
certain  dignity  and  character  to  any  place.  In 
summer  they  protect  the  house  from  extreme 
heat;  in  winter  they  ward  off  the  cold  blasts. 
Trees  form  the  framework  of  every  landscape 
planting.  Shade  trees  planted  on  either  side 
of  the  house  and  on  the  boundaries  of  the 
property  give  a  feeling  of  coziness  and  seclu- 
sion. It  is  our  aim  to  make  the  home  grounds 
a  "picture"  of  which  the  trees  are  the  frame. 

Best  Street  and  Avenue  Trees 

American  White  Elm  (  Ulmus  Americana). 
European  Linden  (Tilia  Platyphyllos) . 
Norway  Maple  (Acer  Platino ides) . 
Pin  Oak  (Quercus  Palustris). 
Tulip  Tree  (Liriodendron  Tulipifera) 
•  Silver  Leaf  Maple  (Acer  Dasycarpum). 
Carolina  Poplar  (Populus  Monolifera). 
European  Sycamore  (Platanus  Orientalis) . 

Trees  for  the  Lawn 

American  White  Elm  (  Ulmus  Americana). 
American  White  Ash  (Fraxinus  Americana). 
Norway  Maple  (Acer  Platinoides) . 
Silver  Leaf  Maple  (Acer  Dasycarpum). 
Wier  Cut-  Leaf  Maple  (Acer  Dasycarpum  Wierii) 
European  Linden  (Tilia  Americana). 
European  Sycamore  (Platanus  Orientalis). 
Pin  Oak  (Quercus  Palustris). 


The  Catalpa  Bungei  with  its  almost  rain-proof 
roof  of  green  leaves  makes  a  splendid  lawn  speci- 
men. In  great  demand  among  Stark  customers. 

Lombardy  Poplar  (Populus  Nigra  Fastigiata). 
European  White  Birch  (Betula  Alba) 
Cut-Leaf  Weeping  Birch  (Betula  Alba  Lacin- 

iata  Pendula). 

Red  Bud  (Cercis  Canadensis). 
Crimson- Leaf  Plum  (Prunus  Pissardi). 
Umbrella  Catalpa  (Catalpa  Bungei) 
Tea's  Weeping  Mulberry. 
Russian  Olive  (Eleagnus  Argentea). 
Babylonian  Willow  (Salix  Babylonica). 

Trees  of  Rapid  Growth 

Tulip  Tree  (Liriodendron  Tulipifera). 
Carolina  Poplar  (Populus  Monolifera). 
Norway  Poplar  (Populus  Norway). 
Lombardy  Popla,r(Populus  Nigra  Fastigiata). 
Catalpa  Speciosa. 

Silver  Leaf  Maple  (Acer  Dasycarpum). 
Wier's  Cut-Leaf  Maple  (Acer   Dasy.  Wierii). 


BOTANICAL    NAME 

COMMON   NAME 

Approx. 
Height 
in  Feet 

GROWTH 

HABIT 
and 
FORM 

50  60 

Rapid   

Wiers  Cut-lf    Maple. 

SO 

Rapid  

Box  Elder    .         

40-50 

Rapid  

40-50 

Acer  Platanoides  var.  Schwedleri  . 

Red  Leaf  Maple  

30-40 
40-60 

Medium  to  Slow.  .  . 

Pyramidal 

Betula  Alba  

40-50 

Medium  to  Rapid.. 

Pyramidal 

Betula  Alba  Laciniata  Pendula..  . 

Cut-lf.  Wpg.  Wh.  Birch. 

50 
6-10 

Medium  to  Rapid.  . 
Rapid  ,  .  . 

Weeping 
Round 

Catalpa  Speciosa  

Common  Catalpa  
Red  Bud 

40 
15-25 

Rapid  

Pyramidal 

40 

Oval 

8-12 

50-80 

Rapid  

Gymnocladus  Canadensis  
Liriodendron  Tulipifera  

Kentucky  Coffee  Bean  . 
Tulip  Tree  

40 
40-60 
6-10 

Rapid  
Medium  

Oval 
Oval 

10-20 

Oval 

6-10 

Rapid    . 

130-170 

Rapid  

Oval 

80 

Oval 

Populus  Nigra  Fastigiata  

Lombardy  Poplar  

80-90 
40-50 

Very  Rapid  

Columnar 

Populus  "Norway"  

Norway  Poplar  

50-60 
15-20 

Very  Rapid  

Pyramidal 
Oval 

20-30 

Rapid  

Oval 

Pyrua  Atropurpurea  
Pyrus  Parkmanni  

Stark  Purple  Leaf  Crab  . 
Parkmann's  Flw.  Crab  . 

White  Oak            .... 

15-20 
8-12 

40-50 

Medium  
Medium  

Oval 
Oval 

Oval 

On    r          Palustris 

Pin  Oak                   .... 

50 

Quercus  Rubra  

Red  Oak  

80-90 
12 

Slow  to  Medium.  .  . 
Rapid  ^  

Oval 
Oval 

Robinia  Pseudacacia    

Black  Locust  
Maiden  Hair  Tree 

60-80 
60 

Rapid  

Oval 

S   1'      R    h    1    nira 

40 

ofv      p    r»rpa             

12 

Oval 

T"l'       Arnf^rifana  

80-90 

Rapid  .    . 

Oval 

75 

Rapid  

Oval 

American  White  Elm.  .  . 

60-80 

Medium  to  Rapid.. 

Vasiform 

Diagram  of  Tree  Forms 

The  above  diagrams  will  be  useful  in  referring 
to  the  last  column  of  the  above  table. 

Box  Elder  or  Ash- Leaf  Maple  (Acer  Negundo.) 
Weeping  Willow  (Salix  Babylonica) . 

Weeping  Trees 

Cut-Leaf  Birch  (Betula  Alba  Laciniata  Pendula) 
Wier's    Cut-Leaf    Maple    (Acer    Dasycarpum 

var.  Wierii). 

Weeping  Willow  (Salix  Babylonica) . 
Tea's  Weeping   Mulberry   (Morus  Alba,   var. 

Tatarica  Pendula). 


A  Graceful  Weeping  Tree 

Tea's  Weeping  Mulberry  with  its  long  slender 
drooping  branches  is  one  of  the  finest  weeping 
trees.  Appropriate  for  cemetery  and  lawn  plant- 
ing. Grown  in  enormous  blocks  by  Stark  Bro's 


[16] 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


ASH,  AMERICAN,  Fraxinus  Americana.  A 
stately,  symmetrical  tree  of  spreading  habit 
attaining  a  height  of  80  feet.  Of  rapid  growth. 
Excellent  for  shade  and  .ornamental  planting. 
Foliage  glossy  green  and  divided.  One  of  the 
choicest  of  our  grand  old  native  trees,  quick 
in  growth,  with  massive  trunk  and  sturdy 
limbs,  valued  alike  for  street,  timber  and 
lawn  planting. 

BIRCH,  CUT-LEAVED  WEEPING 
WHITE,  Betula  Alba  Laciniata  Pendula.  An 
excellent  ornamental  tree  with  finely  cut, 
fern-like  foliage.  Slender  pendulous  branches. 
Perfectly  hardy,  of  rapid  growth,  and  not  par- 
ticular as  to  soil  although  a  slightly  moist 
location  is  preferable.  Will  grow  50  feet  or 
more  in  height. 
BIRCH,  EUROPEAN 
WHITE,  Betula  Alba. 
Attains  a  height  of  50 
feet  or  more.  A  rapid 
growing  symmetrical 
tree  of  graceful  form 
and  slightly  drooping 
branches.  Small  glossy 
green  foliage. The  white 
bark  which  is  more  con- 
spicuous in  older  trees 
is  a  dainty  touch  to 
the  surrounding  greens 
of  the  landscape. 
CATALPA  BUNGEI, 
Umbrella  Catalpa.  A 
broad-foliaged  tree  of 
dwarf  habit,  8  to  10  ft. 
in  height.  Neat,  com- 
pact, round  head  on  ,, 
slender  trunk.  Requires  SuOar  Maple— A  per- 
little  or  no  trimming.  manent  native  tree. 
Used  extensively  for  planting  on  either  side  of 
walk  leading  to  residence  where  area  is 
limited;  also  for  Japanese  gardens  and  other 
formal  effects. 

CATALPA  SPECIOSA,  Lady  Cigar  Tree, 
Western  Catalpa.  A  hardy  western  tree  of 
rapid  growth  and  often  60  feet  in  height. 
Valuable  for  fence  posts  and  ties.  Flowers 
mottled  white  succeeded  by  long  dark  brown 
beans  which  are  attractive  during  the  early 
winter  months.  A  good  tree  for  grove  plant- 
ing where  quick  shade  is  desired.  Thrives 
equally  well  in  moist  or  dry  soils. 
CHERRY,  DOUBLE  FLOWERED,  Cerasus 
Japonica  Rosea  Pendula.  A  weeping  Japan- 
ese tree  of  graceful  appearance.  Pink  flowers 
in  early  May  literally  cover  the  branches. 
CRIMSON  LEAF  PLUM,  Prunus  Pissardi. 
One  of  our  best  purple  leaved  trees.  Of 
medium  size  and  perfectly  hardy.  Foliage 
and  twigs  dark  purple  forming  a  striking  con- 
trast when  planted  near  the  border.  A  good 
specimen  tree. 

ELM,  AMERICAN,  Ulmus  Americana.  An 
old  favorite  used  for  many  purposes.  Of 
graceful  spreading  habit  with  slightly  droop- 
ing branches.  Is  adapted  to  a  variety  of  con- 
ditions. Easily  transplanted.  An  excellent 
avenue  tree  and  unexcelled  as' a  rapid  growing 
shade  tree — one  that  needs  no  introduction. 
The  best  of  all  native  trees. 
FLOWERING  CRAB,  Pyrus  Parkmanni. 
A  very  attractive  small  tree  or  shrub,  -'8  to- 
12  feet  in  height.  Semi-double  rosy-pink 
flowers  are  followed  by  small  dark  red  fruits 
which  ripen  in  late  autumn.  A  beautiful  'dis- 
play in  the  border  or  as  specimens  on  the  lawn. 
KENTUCKY  COFFEE  BEAN  TREE. 
Gymnocladus  Canadensis.  A  native  tree  at- 
taining large  size.  Of  rapid  growth,  produc- 
ing heavy  spreading  branches.  Flowers  green 
in  June  followed  by  long  pods  which  produce 
the  beans  said  to  have  been  used  by  early 
settlers  for  coffee.  A  clean,  stout,  shade  tree, 
desirable  for  street  and  lawn  planting.  It 
seems  immune  from  disease,  and  in  winter 
the  blunt  twigless  branches  give  it  a  unique 
individuality. 

LINDEN,  AMERICAN,  Tilia  Americana.  A 
valuable  native  tree  of  rapid  growth  forming 
a  broad  round  open  top.  Fragrant  creamy- 
white  flowers  borne  on  winged  stalks  in  July. 
A  honey-bee  favorite.  Adapted  to  a  variety 
of  soils.  Wood  utilized  for  veneering.  A  good 
avenue  or  specimen  tree. 

LINDEN,  BROAD  LEAVED  EUROPEAN, 
Tilia  Platyphyllos.  A  broad  leaved  European 
species  often  75  feet  in  height.  Leaves  green 
and  rough.  Used  as  a  specimen  tree  for  shade. 
The  famous  tree  of  Parisian  and  Berlin  streets 
that  is  holding  its  own  on  American  soil  as 


one  of  the  foremost  for  avenue  planting. 
More  pyramidal  and  uniform  in  habit  than 
American  Linden. 

LOCUST,  BLACK,  Robinia  Pseudacacia.  A 
native  rapid  growing  tree  with  spreading 
branches.  Long  drooping  clusters  of  creamy 
white,  pea-shaped,  fragrant  flowers  in  Spring. 
Good  background  tree  for  border.  The  tim- 
ber is  so  durable  that  it  is  in  demand  for 
many  commercial  purposes. 
MAGNOLIA  SOULANGEANA,  Magnolia 
Soulangeana.  A  beautiful  small  tree  to  20 
feet,  producing  large  pinkish  flowers  in  April 
before  the  leaves.  A  strong  growing  variety 
from  China.  Very  desirable  as  specimen 
plant.  MAGNOLIA,  STAR,  Mag- 

nolia Halleana  Stellata.  A  Jap- 
anese shrub  or  small  tree  at- 
taining the  height  of  10  feet. 
Flowers  white  and  produced 
abundantly  in  early  Spring  be- 
fore the  leaves  making  the  plant 
very  attractive.  Excellent  as  a 
specimen  plant  on  a  lawn. 
MAIDEN  HAIR  TREE  OR 
GINKGO,  Salisburia  Adiant- 
ifolia.  A  medium  fast  growing 
tree  to  60  feet;  from  the  Orient. 
Foliage  yellowish  green  and 
fernlike.  Prefers  a  moist  deep 


American    White   Ash—A  splendid  native  tree 
of  rapid  growth  and  long  life. 

soil.  Good  for  specimen  or  groups  near  the 
border.  It  is  especially  valuable  in  the  eastern 
states  where  it  withstands  city  conditions 
most  successfully.  Immune  from  insects  and 
diseases. 

MAPLE,  ASH  LEAVED  or  BOX  ELDER, 
Acer  Negundo.  A  large  native  tree  of  rapid 
growth  and  spreading  habit.  Adapted  to  a 
variety  of  soils  but  succeeds  best  in  a  moist 
location.  Planted  extensively  in  the  West 
where  it  endures  both  the  cold  and  arid  con- 

MAPLE,    MONUMENTAL    SUGAR,    Acer 
Saccharum  Monumentalis.     A  variety  of  the 
preceding,  of  distinct  and  attractive  appear- 
ance.    Of  tall  spiry  form.     Longer  lived  than 
Lombardy  Poplar.  Excellent  for 
breaking  the  sky-line  in  massed 
planting. 

MAPLE,  NORWAY,  Acer  Pla- 
tanoidcs.  An  excellent  compact, 
round  headed  tree  of  medium 
growth,  rarely  exceeding  50  feet 
in  height.  Requires  little  or  no 
pruning.  Strong,  uniform  and 
perfectly  hardy.  Leaves  dark 
green  until  late  autumn  when 
they  turn  a  bright  yellow.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  ornamental  trees 
and  is  popular  in  all  lawn,  park, 


cemetery  and  street  plantings.  By  many  of 
the  best  authorities  it  is  quoted  as  one  of  the 
few  trees  that  will  grow  satisfactorily  under 
city  conditions. 

MAPLE,  PURPLE  LEAF  NORWAY,  Acer 
Platanoides  var.  Schwedleri.  An  attractive 
variety  of  the  above  species.  Spreading, 
about  40  feet  in  height.  Young  foliage  a 
bright  red,  turning  to  a  dark  purplish  green, 
bright  yellow  in  autumn.  Excellent  as  a 
specimen  tree  or  when  grouped  with  other 
trees  for  contrast. 

MAPLE,  SUGAR,  Acer  Saccharum.  A  fine 
round  headed  tree  with  spreading  branches. 
Of  moderate  growth  and  long  duration.  An 
excellent  avenue  tree  and  as  a  specimen  where 
dense  shade  is  desired.  Valuable  also  for  its 
sugar  production.  Leaves  bright  green, 
changing  to  golden  yellow  and  orange  in 
Autumn. 

MAPLE,  SILVER  LEAF,  Acer  Dasycarpum, 
Acer  Saccharinum.  A  rapid  growing  tree 
used  extensively  for  both  street  and  lawn 
planting  where  immediate  results  are  desired. 
Grows  to  60  feet  in  height.  Foliage  silvery 
beneath.  Easily  transplanted  and  very 
hardy.  Not  particular  as  to  soil,  and  succeeds 
under  varied  conditions.  Of  spreading  habit, 
but  may  be  pruned  severely  to  any  height  or 
form  desired. 

MAPLE,  WIER'S  CUT  LEAF,  Acer  Dasy- 
carpum Wierii.  A  strong  growing  tree  with 
finely  cut  foliage  and  drooping  branches. 
Hardy  and  easy  to^ransplant.  An  attractive 
specimen  tree  on  the  lawn.  Very  desirable 
quick  growing  tree  on  account  of  its  graceful 
habit. 

MULBERRY,   Morus. 

"Abundance."  A  vigorous,  productive  tree 
of  upright  habit.  Long,  slender,  glossy  black 
fruit  of  excellent  quality.  Unquestionably  the 
best  of  all  varieties  of  this  popular  quick 
growing  ornamental  fruit. 

"Downing."  A  rapid  growing  tree  of 
shapely  form.  A  prolific  bearer  of  good  qual- 
ity, glossy,  black  fruit.  A  fine  shade  tree. 
Sometimes  planted  in  the  orchards  to  attract 
the  birds  from  the  other  fruit. 

"Globe  Headed."  A  strong  rival  of  the  well- 
known  and  ever  popular  Umbrella  Catalpa. 
It  develops  a  perfectly  formed  round  head 
without  pruning.  Especially  attractive  when 
grafted  on  stems  5  or  6  feet  from  the  ground. 

"Gorgeous."  Its  name  is  in  itself  a  complete 
description,  luscious  jet  black  fruit,  clean, 
beautiful  foliage  and  quick  growth;  usually 
bears  when  three  years  old.  Originated  by 
E.  H.  Riehl  of  111.  Experiment  Station,  from 
whom  we  secured  it  for  introduction  to  the 
trade.  The  largest  of  all  mulberries. 

"Monarch."  A  rapid  growing  tree  attain- 
ing large  size.  Berries  white,  sweet  and  rich 
with  a  long  ripening  season.  Very  prolific. 
Tree  attains  greater  size  than  any  other 
Mulberry. 

"  New  American."  A  hardy  vigorous 
grower  and  very  productive.  Large,  sweet, 
glossy  black  berries.  Ranks  among  the  best 
for  fruit  and  is  unsurpassed  in  ornamental 
value  for  lawn  and  specimen  planting  although 
like  other  Mulberries,  it  should  not  be  planted 
where  ripening  fruit  will  fall  underfoot  on 
walks. 


Carolina  Poplar 

8  years  after  plant- 
ing.   Splendid  for 
quick  results. 


Secrets 


of       Ornamental       Planting 

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Mulberry  (Continued) 
"Russian."     A  very  hardy,  vigorous  grow- 
ing tree  with  bushy  top.    A  form  of   M.   alba. 
Fruit  small,  of  little  value.     Sometimes  used 
for  hedges  and  low  windbreaks. 

"Teas  Weeping."  An  excellent,  graceful 
weeping  tree  with  long  branches  that 
sweep  the  ground.  A  favorite  for  cemetery 
planting  and  on  other  limited  areas.  A  strik- 
ingly effective  addition  to  any  ornamental 
planting.  It  ranks  as  one  of  the  best  weeping 
trees  in  cultivation.  To  10  feet  in  height. 

OAK  PIN,  Quercus  Palustris.  A  beautiful 
tree  of  spreading  habit  growing  to  50  feet  in 
height.  Unexcelled  for  street  planting,  being 
a  very  shapely  tree.  A  fine  specimen  tree  for 
the  lawn.  Foliage  bright  green  turning  to 
scarlet  and  yellow  in  autumn.  As  the  tree 
grows  the  branches  droop  giving  it  a  beautiful 
and  characteristic  outline.  This  variety  is  one 
of  the  easiest  oaks  to  transplant. 

OAK,  RED,  Quercus  Rubra.  A  native  species 
of  rather  fast  growth  to  80  feet.  Leaves  pink 
when  unfolding,  later  dark  green  and  deeply 
cut  turning  a  dark  brownish  crimson  in  Au- 
tumn. Bears  large  acorns.  Ideal  for  planting 
where  a  fast  growing  oak  is  desired.  A  beaut- 
iful lawn  tree  and  favored  for  street  planting. 

OAK,  WHITE,  Quercus  Alba.  One  of  our 
large  native  deciduous  trees  of  medium 
growth.  It  makes  a  beautiful  specimen  tree 
when  given  sufficient  space  to  develop.  A 
long  lived  tree  excellent  for  lawn,  timber  or 
park  planting.  Leaves  cling  till  winter  is 
well  advanced,  a  most  pleasing  characteristic 
of  this  variety. 

POPLAR,  CAROLINA,  Populus  Mono- 
lifera  (Deltoides.)  A  widely  known  tree  of 
rapid  growth.  The  heart-shaped  leaves  are 
glossy  and  attractive.  Often  planted  on  the 
avenue,  but  should  be  topped  occasionally  to 
make  it  bush  out.  If  left  unpruned,  it  soon 
attains  the  height  of  40  or  50  feet.  Fine  for 
windbreak  when  planted  close  together.  It 
withstands  easily  conditions  under  which  other 
trees  die. 

POPLAR,  LOMBARDY,  Populus  Nigra 
Fastigiata.  A  familiar  Italian  tree  from  the 
province,  Lombardy.  A  very  rapid  growing 
tree,  the  height  often  exceeding  80  feet. 
Excellent  to  break  the  skyline  in  massed 
planting,  as  an  accent  in  the  landscape,  as  a 
windbreak  or  a  screen.  The  most  common 
and  popular  of  all  columnar  trees. 

POPLAR,  NORWAY,  Populus  Norway.  An 
excellent  tree  of  the  Carolina  type  but  of  more 
rapid  growth  and  by  many  it  is  considered 
hardier.  Termed  "The  Sudden  Sawlog"  in 
the  west.  Should  be  planted  extensively 
where  quick  results  are  desired  and  is  espe- 
cially valuable  for  planting  around  new  build- 
ings. First  brought  to  the  attention  of 
horticulturists  in  1897  in  Faribault  Co.,  Minn., 
but  is  now  in  demand  throughout  the  country. 

PERSIMMON,  Diospyros  Virginica.  A 
medium  sized  native  tree  to  aboiit  40  feet  in 
height.  Much  prized  for  the  roundj  orange 
yellow  fruit  which  is  edible  after  frost:  1 0f 
moderate  growth  with  deeply  furrowed  bark. 

PLUM,  ROYAL  PURPLE,  Prunus  Vesuvius. 
A  choice  variety  somewhat  similar  to  P.  Pis- 
sardi,  but  in  many  ways  superior  to  it.  A 
vigorous  grower  with  very  large  crimson 
leaves  and  deep  rich  colored  fruit.  Originated 
by  Luther  Burbank. 

RED  BUD,  Cercis  Canadensis.  A  small  tree 
or  shrub  seldom  attaining  25  feet  in  height. 
Foliage  heart  shaped.  The  small  red  flowers 
are  thickly  set  on  the  branches  in  early  spring 
before  the  leaves  appear.  Decidedly  one  of 
the  best  flowering  shrubs  and  worthy  of 
extensive  planting. 

ROSE     ACACIA     or     MOSS     LOCUST, 

Robinia  Hispida  Rosea.  A  dwarf  tree  to 
12  feet.  Large  drooping  panicles  of  rose  col- 
ored flowers  in  May.  Branches  with  bristles 
like  the  Moss  Rose.  Foliage  bright  green  and 
divided.  Splendid  for  the  border  and  natural 
planting. 

RUSSIAN  OLIVE  or  SILVER  LEAVED 
OLEASTER,  Elaeagnus  Argentea.  A  small 
tree  or  shrub  to  about  12  feet  with  small  wil- 
low-like foliage,  silver-white  in  appearance. 
Flowers  small,  yellow  and  fragrant,  succeeded 
by  yellow  fruit.  Perfectly  hardy  and  makes  a 
successful  hedge  plant.  Combined  with  other 


shrubs  in  a  border  planting  it  presents  a 
novel  and  striking  contrast  that  results  in  ex- 
clamations of  delight. 

SYCAMORE,  AMERICAN  or  WESTERN 
PLANE  TREE,  Platanus  Occident  alia.  A 


The  graceful  white 
birch  against  a  back- 
ground of  green  gives  " 
touch   of  dainty  beauty- 

native  tree  of  immense 
size.     Of  rapid  growth 
and    spreading    habit. 
Leaves     large     with 
pointed  lobes.  Success- 
fully    used     as    street 
trees.       Globe-shaped 
heads   of   seed    persist 
until  late  winter.     The 
mottled   white   and 
brown    bark     on     the 
sturdy  limbs  and  trunks  of   old   trees   is 
very   conspicuous   in    winter   landscapes. 
SYCAMORE,    EUROPEAN    or    ORI- 
ENTAL PLANE,  Platanus  Orientalis.  An 
erect  tree  of  rapid  growth.      Easily  trans- 
planted. More  desirable  than  the  American 
species.       Extensively    used    for   avenue 
planting   in    cities    where   it   successfully 
withstands  smoke,  dust  and  traffic.      Re- 
markably free  from  insects  and  diseases. 
Prefers  a  deep  moist  soil  but  thrives  in  a 
variety  of  soils  from   seashore   to    moun- 
taintop.  Such  authorities  as  City  Forester 
Koenig  of  St.  Louis  commend  it  for  gen- 
eral and  universal  street  planting. 


Black  Walnut — valued  for  its  shade  and  beauty 
as  well  as  for  the  splendid  nuts  it  bears. 

TULIP  TREE  or  YELLOW  POPLAR,  Lirioden- 
dron  Tulipifera.  An  excellent  tree  of  large  proportions 
and  rapid  growth.  Often  attains  a  height  of  60  feet. 
Fragrant,  tulip  shaped,  bright  green  and  orange  yel- 
low flowers  borne  very  freely  during  June.  A  very 
attractive  and  desirable  tree  on  the  lawn,  but  is  slight- 
ly hard  to  transplant  if  very  large.  When  established 
it  succeeds  well  in  any  soil  and  easily  repays  for  care 
in  planting. 

WILLOW,  PUSSY,  Salix  Caprea.  A  small  tree  or 
shrub  to  12  feet.  Of  upright  habit.  Produces  fleecy 
flower  buds  in  early  Spring  which  are  very  attractive. 
Good  in  the  border  planting  in  moist  soils  for  a  natural 
effect. 

WILLOW,  WEEPING,  Salix  Babylonica.  The  well 
knownWeepingWillow  whose  long  pendulous  branches 
droop  so  gracefully.  An  admirable  shade  tree  for 
planting  near  the  water  edge.  Grows  to  a  height 
of  40  feet.  Very  rapid  growth,  succeeds  easily. 

Nut  Trees 

CHESTNUT, AMERICAN  SWEET.  A  large  native 
ornamental  tree  of  symmetrical  habit.  Bears  sweeter 
nuts  of  fine  flavor  but  are  not  quite  as  large  as  the 
others.  Fine  for  specimen  groups  on  the  landscape. 
CHESTNUT,  COOPER,  Grafted.  Tree  a  rapid 
grower  bearing  large  nuts  of  good  quality. 
CHESTNUT,  ROCHESTER,  Grafted.  A  hardy, 
vigorous  tree  of  rapid  growth.  Not  particular  as  to 
soil.  Adapted  to  the  same  conditions  as  our  native 
species.  Profitable  as  well  as  ornamental. 

FILBERT,    ENGLISH, 

CorylusAvellana.  A  hardy 
branching  shrub  to  8  feet 
bearing  a  good  quantity 
of  edible  nuts.  A  vaula- 
ble  border  plant  both  as 
an  ornamental  and  as  an 
economic  plant. 

HICKORY, MISSOURI 
MAMMOTH.  A  native 
of  the  rich  alluvial  bot- 
toms of  the  Mississippi 
Valley.  Tree  grows  to 
a  great  height.  Nuts 
arge  and  of  good  quality. 


Tulip  Tree — a 

favorite  lawn 

tree  bearing 

tulip-shaped 

flowers. 


European  Linden — famous  in  Europe  and   America. 


18 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


HICKORY,  SHELLBARK.  A  commonly- 
known  tree  of  our  forest.  Recognized  by  its 
stout  grey  branches,  open  top  and  shaggy 
bark  which  makes  it  look  very  picturesque. 
Bears  large  crops  of  high  quality  nuts  though 
not  as  large  as  the  preneeding. 
PECAN,  ILLINOIS  SEEDLING.  Origina- 
ted in  Pike  Co.,  111.  A  thrifty  tree  producing 
extra  large  nuts. 

PECAN,  MISSOURI  SEEDLING.  Pro- 
duced from  seed  of  tree  bearing  extra  large 
nuts  near  our  home  nursery. 


The  American  White  Elm 

The  grandest  of  all  American  trees',  of  fairly 
rapid  growth  and  long-lived.       Stark  Bro's 
blocks  of  Elm.  are  in  great  demand. 

PECAN,  PABST,  Grafted.  Nut  of  excellent 
quality  and  of  moderate  size.  Shell  soft,  part- 
ing well  from  meat.  The  paper-shell  pecans 
are  not  hardy  in  the  north. 
PECAN,  STUART,  Grafted.  The  most  popu- 
lar paper-shell  pecan.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower 
bearing  nuts  of  good  quality  in  abundance. 
PECAN,  VAN  DEMAN,  Grafted.  A  large 
nut  of  good  quality.  Oblong  in  shape  with 
moderately  thin  shell. 

WALNUT,  BLACK,  Juglans  Nigra.  A  large 
spreading  tree  to  50  feet  with  divided  foliage. 
Extensively  planted  as  a  timber  tree  as  the 
wood  is  very  valuable.  Perfectly  hardy  and 
prolific,  bearing  large  rich  nuts  of  good  quality. 
WALNUT,  JAPAN,  Juglans  Sieboldiana.  A 
hardy  tree  from  Japan.  An  abundance  of 
small,  thin-shelled,  sweet  nuts  of  good  quality 
produced  in  clusters.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower 
and  ornamental.  Bears  young. 
WALNUT,  WHITE  (BUTTERNUT),  Jug- 
lans Cinerea.  Rather  fast  growing  tree,  at- 
taining large  size.  Rough  oblong  nuts  with 
very  rich  meat.  Perfectly  hardy. 


Evergreens 


CONCOLOR  FIR,  Abies  Concolor.  Very 
hardy,  grows  rapidly,  withstands  heat  and 
drouth.  Foliage  varies  from  light  green  to 
deep  blue.  Long-lived,  attaining  a  height  of 
00  to  80  feet. 

DOUGLAS  FIR,  Abies  Douglasi.  Dark 
green  foliage  slightly  drooping — a  large 
stately  tree. 

BOXWOOD  PYRAMID.     A  dwarf  growing 
evergreen  plant  somewhat  resembling  privet. 
Good  for  low  hedges  but  not  hardy  north. 
COUNARTI  JUNIPER,  Juniperus  Counarti. 
A  very  hardy  pyramidal  shaped  Juniper.    The 
dense,    dark    green    foliage    lies   close    to   the 
ground.     Can  be  sheared. 
JUNIPERUS     PFITZERIANA.       Uniform 
growth;  requires  no  trimming.     Used  extens- 
ively for  lawn  and  cemetery  planting. 
JAPANESE   TRAILING   JUNIPER,   Juni- 
perus   Procumbe.ns.      Dwarf   form. 
SCHOTTI  JUNIPER,  Juniperus  Schotti.     A 
native   Rocky   Mountain  species;  graceful  in 
habit  with   dark  green  foliage.      Moderately 
rapid  in  growth,  dense  and  symmetrical. 
RED    CEDAR.    Juniperus     Virginiana.       A 
compact  tree  varying  somewhat  in  color  and 
form.     Foliage  bright  green  in   Summer  and 
assuming  a  darker  hue  in  Winter. 


SILVER     CEDAR,     Juniperus     Virginiana 
Glauca     A  vigorous  growing  variety  with  con- 
spicuous light  colored  foliage. 
SAVIN  JUNIPER,  Juniperus  Sabina.     A  fine 
low  growing  Juniper  for  massing  in  groups. 
LEE    GOLDEN    JUNIPER,   Juniperus  Ell. 
Lee.      A  tall  grower.      Will  endure  heat  and 
wind  well. 

JUNIPERUS  SABINA  PROSTRATA.  A 
very  low  growing,  prostrate  form  with  dull 
green  foliage. 

WHITE   SPRUCE,    Picea    Alba.      Excellent 
for  windbreaks.     A  long-lived,  rapid-growing 
tree  that  does  well  anywhere. 
NORWAY    SPRUCE,    Picea  Excelsa.      Our 
well-known  spruce.    Foliage  dark  green;  fine. 
Tree  pyramidal  to  45  feet  in  height.    Hardy. 
COLORADO  BLUE  SPRUCE,   Picea  Pun- 
gens  Glauca.      Foliage  bluish   to   dark  green. 
Branches  in  whorls  extending  horizontally. 
BLUE   SPRUCE,    GRAFTED,    Picea    Pun- 
gens     Kosteriana   Glauca.      Drouth-resistant. 
Compact  in  growth.     Good  for  shelterbelts. 
DWARF  MUGHO  PINE,  Pinus  Mugho.     A 
dwarf  form  suitable  for  low  planting. 
WHITE   PINE,    Pinus  Strobus.      One  of  the 
best   native   pines   with   smooth    bark,    hori- 
zontal  branches   bearing   dark   green   foliage 
arranged  in  groups  of  five. 
SWISS  STONE  PINE,  Pinus  Cembra.  Small, 
compact  tree  of  a  bluish-green  color. 

AUSTRIAN  PINE,  Pinus  Austriaca.  A  ro- 
bust grower,  withstanding  severe  conditions. 
AMERICAN  ARBOR  VITAE,  Thuya  Occi- 
dental's. A  good  hedge  plant.  Foliage  scaly 
of  bright  green  color,  slightly  lighter  on  under 
side.  Pruned  to  desired  height  and  shape. 
DOUGLAS  GOLDEN  ARBOR  VITAE, 
Thuya  Occidentalis  Aurea.  A  golden  yellow 
variety  of  the  preceding. 

PEABODY'S  GOLDEN  ARBOR  VITAE 
Thuya  Occidentalis  Lutea.  A  yellow  foliaged 
evergreen  broadly  pyramidal  in  form. 


Norway  Maple 

Easily  queen  of  all  the  Maples;  forms  a  dense 

round  head;  probably  the  most  popular  shade 

tree  for  lawn  and  avenue. 

HEMLOCK  Tsuga  Canadensis.  A  very 
graceful  tree  with  fern-like  foliage.  Thrives 
in  partial  shade. 

SIBERIAN  ARBOR  VITAE,  Thuya  Oc- 
cidentalis Warreana  Siberica.  Another  hardy 
form  well  known  as  a  hedge  plant. 

Hardy  Perennials 

ASTER  TATARICA.  An  excellent  va- 
riety with  bright  purple  flowers  and  heavy 
foliage.  5  ft.  in  height.  Fall  blooming. 
ANCHUSA,  "  Dropmore  Variety."  Stems 
3  to  5  ft.  in  height,  bearing  showy,  deep  blue 
flowers  from  spring  until  late  summ 
BALL  OF  SNOW.  Achillea  m 

"Boule  de   Niege."     Small  double 
white  flowers,  borne  profusely  on 
slender,  graceful  branches. 
An  erect,  compact  grower. 
Better  than  the  Pearl.  Fin 
for    cutting.      Not 
particular  as  to  soil. 
To  2  feet  in 
height. 


BLANKET  FLOWER,  Gaillardia  Grandi- 
flora.  One  of  the  best  perennials.  Large, 
daisy-like  flowers,  with  dark,  reddish-brown 
centers,  blending  through  all  shades  to 
orange-crimson  at  the  petal  tips.  2  ft.  high. 

CANTERBURY  BELLS,  Campanula  Caly- 
canthema.  A  most  popular  "cup  and  saucer" 
variety  with  rose-colored  flowers,  often  3 
inches  long.  Grows  to  3  ft.  in  height. 

FOXGLOVE,  Digitalis  Rosea.  An  old, 
well  known  favorite  with  rose  colored, 
bell  or  thimble  shaped  flowers,  densely 
arranged  at  the  ends  of  the  slender  branches. 
Blooms  July  and  August.  Height  4  ft. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM,  Pompon  Varieties. 
Hardy  varieties  of  the  bachelor  button  type 
are  very  attractive  in  the  border.  Pink,  yel- 
low or  white  colors.  To  3  ft.  in  height. 

GOLDEN  GLOW,  Rudbeckia.  An  excellent, 
tall  growing,  hardy  perennial  plant,  with 
hundreds  of  bright,  golden  yellow  flowers 
as  large  as  dahlias,  on  slender  stems.  7  ft. 

GERMAN  IRIS,  Iris  Germanica.  Should 
have  a  prominent  place  in  every  perennial 
collection.  Excellent,  large,  beautiful,  showy 
flowers.  Fine  effect  when  planted  near 
water.  May  or  June.  We  grow  the  blue, 
white  and  yellow  varieties. 

JAPANESE  IRIS,  Iris  Kaempferi.  Im- 
mense flowers  in  June  and  July,  produced  on 
stout  stems  3  ft.  high.  Red  flowers. 

MALLOWS,  Hibiscus  Moscheutos.  Large 
flowers  resembling  the  old  time  Hollyhock. 
Vigorous  grower  with  strong  upright  shoots 
to  5  ft.  Flowers  produced  in  July  and  August. 
Both  pink  and  white  colors. 

MOUNTAIN  BLUET,  Centaurea  Alpina. 
Similar  in  appearance  to  the  Corn  flower. 
Large  violet-blue,  flowers  on  3  ft.  stems. 

ORIENTAL  POPPY,  Papaver  Orientate. 
Immense  flowers  of  a  bright  flaming  scarlet 
color,  wearing  at  the  base  of  the  cup,  formed 
by  the  petals,  a  maltese  cross  of  purple 
black.  A  thrifty  grower  to  3  ft. 

PHLOX.  The  huge  clusters  of  beautiful 
colored  flowers  terminating  the  many  leafy 
shoots,  make  this  plant  most  attractive. 
A  border  of  hardy  perennials  is  incomplete 
without  the  Phlox.  Supplied  in  the  following 
colors:  white,  white-red  eye,  pink,  red. 

ROCKY    MOUNTAIN    COLUMBINE, 

Aquilegia  Coerulea.  The  showy,  light  blue- 
flowers  on  slender  branches  are  very  showy 
in  early  spring.  Height  about  2  ft. 

ZEBRA  GRASS,  Eulalia  Japonica  Zebrina. 
A  variegated  grass  with  green  leaves,  banded 
yellow.  Rarely  over  18  in.  in  height. 

WIND  FLOWER,  Anemone  Japonica  Alba. 
Very  attractive.  Of  rapid  growth  to  2  or 
3  ft.  in  height.  Flowers  pure  white  with 
yellow  center — August  till  November. 

PAEONIES,  described  on  page  24. 


A  row  of  thrifty  Euro- 
pean Sycamore  grown  by 
Stark  Bro's.  This 
tree  and  American 
Elm  and  Norway 
Maple  were  selected  as 
the  best  for  street 
planting  by  the 
city  foresters. 
All  are 
good 
growers. 


[19] 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 

imiiiiiiiiiiiiiiNiiiniiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiHiiHiiiiiiiiin^ 

Hardy  Flowering  Shrubs 

The  correct  planting  of  naturalistic  shrub  borders  and  shrub  groups  is  one  of  the  most 
important  factors  in  attaining  a  good,  naturalistic  landscape  planting.  The  shrubs  in  groups 
and  borders  must  be  irregular  in  outline  with  graceful,  sweeping  curves  and  deep  bays.  The 

outline  of  the  groups  must  be  irregular  and  also  the  sky-line  or  perspective  must  be  uneven  and 

naturalistic.     There   must  be  accent  in  the  planting,   such 

as  a  shrub  or  tree  of  very  slender,  upright  growth.     It  is 

necessary  to  study  the  characteristics  of  the  different  shrubs 

before    making    up    your    shrub    group.     The    taller,    more 

upright  shrubs  should  be  used  in  the  background  or  in  the 

center  of  the  group.     Then  the  shrubs  of  medium   height 

should  be  used  in  front  of  these,  while  on  the  very  edge  we 

use  the  low,  spreading  shrubs  which  are  known  as  "facers." 

Everyone    has    seen    the    character    of    undergrowth    which 

appears  on  the  edge  of  a  forest.     There  you  will  see  the  large 

shrubs  in  behind  and  the  lower,  spreading  shrubs  in  front. 

This  is  exactly  the  same  effect  at  which  we  are  striving  when 

we  plant  a  naturalistic  shrub  border. 

FLOWERING   SHRUBS   IN   ORDER   OF 
BLOOM. 


(Including    many    of    the    best    species.) 
APRIL. 

Cercis  Canadensis — Red  bud. 
Tamarix  Africana — Tamarisk. 
Forsythia — Golden  Bell. 
Spirea  Thunbergii — Dwarf  Spirea. 

MAY. 

Lonicera   Tatarica — Tartarian    Honeysuckle. 
Spirea  Van  Houttei. 
Prunus      Pissardi — Purple       eaf      flowering 

plum. 

Prunus  triloba — Rose  tree  of  China. 
Lilacs,  in  variety. 

Lonicera   Morrowii — Bush   Honeysuckle. 
Deutzia  gracilis — Dwarf  Deutzia. 
Viburnum  lantana — Wayfaring  tree. 
Lonicera    Tatarica — Bush    Tartarian    Honey- 
suckle. 
Deutzia  Lemoinei — Lemoine's  Deutzia. 

JUNE. 

Viburnum  opulus — High  bush   Cranberry. 
Viburnum  opulus,  var.  sterilis — Snowball. 
Cornus  alba — Red  stemmed  Dogwood. 
Deutzia  scabra- — "Pride  of  Rochester." 
Weigela,  in  variety. 
Philadelphus    coronarius  —  Mock    Orange    or 

Syringa. 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora. 

JULY. 

Syringa  Japonica — Tree  Lilac. 
Symphoricarpus  racemosus- — Snowberry. 
Spirea  Billardi — Billard's  Spirea. 
Spirea  Anthony   Waterer.  * 

AUGUST  AND  LATER. 
A  Ithea — Hibiscus. 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora. 

SHRUBS     WITH     BRIGHT     COLORED 
FRUITS. 

Berberis  Thunbergii — Japanese  Barberry. 
Berberis  vulgaris — Common  Barberry. 
Cornus  Florida — Flowering  Dogwood. 
Euonymus  alatus — Strawberry  tree. 

Rosa  ruyosa — Japanese  Rose. 
Symphoricarpus  racemosus — Snowberry. 

Viburnum  opulin — High  bush   Cranberry. 


Carolina  A II- 
spice  (Caly- 
canthus),  a 

charming 
spicy  scented 

shrub  that 
should  be  in 

your  next 

order  from 
Stark  Bro's. 


Amid  the  Deutzias  on  Stark 
Bro's  office  lawn. 

Japanese  Barberry — The 
universal  hedge  plant;  ideal 
low  growing  shrub  for  foun- 
dation planting  (at  the  left). 


Botanical 
Name 

Common 
Name 

Height 
When 
Fully 
Grown 

f  ime 
of 
Flower- 
ing 

Color 
of 
Bloom 

Habit 
of 
Growth 

Amelanchier  canadensis.  . 

une  Berry  

10  ft. 
20 

May 

White 
White 

Erect 
Erect 

Aralia  pentaphylla  
Berberis  Thunbergii  
Berberis  vulgaris  
Berberis  vulgaris  atropur- 
purea  

\ngelica  Tree  
(apanese  Barberry  
Common  Barberry  

3urple  If.  Barberry  

10 
4 
6 

6 

4 

June 
June 
vlay—  June 

ilay—  June 

Yellow 
Yellow 
Yellow 

Yellow 
Blue 

Erect 
Spreading 
Spreading 

Spreading 

Calycanthus  floridus  

Car.  Allspice,  Strawberry 
Bush 

4-6 

f~*    r»Vi    1    nthii<!  nrrirlpntalis 

5-7 

White 

Cercis  canadensis  
Cornus  alba  "Siberica"  .  .  . 

Red  Bud  or  Judas  Tree  .  . 
Red  Stemmed  Dogwood  . 

16-25 
8 
10-15 

April 
June 

Pink 
White 
White 

Erect 
Arching 

Cornus  florida  var.  rubra.. 
Deutzia  gracilis  
Deutzia  Lemoinei  
Deutzia  scabra  
Diervilla  florida  
Diervilla  florida  var.  Can- 
dida   

Red  Flowering  Dogwood 
Dwarf  Deutzia  
Lemoine's  Deutzia  
"Pride  of  Rochester".  .  . 
Weigela     rosea  

White  Weigela  

12-16 
2 
3 
6 
6 

6 

May 
May 
May 
June 
Slay—  June 

Pink  or  Red 
White 
White 
Pink 
Pink 

White 

Erect 
Spreading 
Spread.  -Arch. 
Spread.  -Arch. 
Spreading 

Erect-Spread 

Diervilla     hybrida      Eva 
Rathke                     .    ... 

Weigela  Eva  Rathke  .... 

4 

Euonymus    alatus  
Forsythia  Fortune!  

Burning  Bush  
Fortune's  Golden  Bell.  .  . 
Golden  Bell  

8 
5 
8-10 

June 
April 

White 
Yellow 
Yellow 

Spread.  -Erect 
Erect 
Spread.  -Arch 

Witch  Hazel  

20 

Yellow 

Erect 

5-10 

July-Sept. 

Erect 

Hydrangea      arborescens 
var.     grandiflora  
Hydrangea  paniculata 

Hills  of  Snow  

4-5 
8 

June-Aug. 
July—  Oct 

White 
White 

Spreading 

Ligustrum  amurense  
Ligustrum  Ibota  

Amoor  River  Privet.  .  .  . 
Ibota  Privet  
California  Privet  

10-15 
8-10 
10-12 

July 
July 

White 
White 

Spread  ins 
Spreading 
Spread.  -Erect 

3-6 

Spread.  -Arch. 

12-15 

Spread.  -Arch. 

Lonicera  f  ragrantissima  .  . 
Lonicera     Tatarica     var. 
rubra  
Lonicera  Tatar,  var.  alba  . 
Lonicera    Tatarica.    var. 
rosea  grandiflora  
Philadelphus  aureus  
Philadelphus  coronarius  .  . 
Philadelphus  Gordonianus 
Philadelphus  Lemoinei  .  .  . 

Fragrant  Honeysuckle.  .  . 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle  .  . 
White  Tar.  Honeysuckle. 

Pink  Flow'd  Honeysuckle 
Golden  Syringa  
Mock  Orange  
Gordons  Syringa  
Lemoine's  Syringa  

4-6 

5 
6-9 

6-8 
3 
10 
12 

4 

Apr.—  May 

May—  June 
May—  June 

May-June 
May-June 
May 
June 
May-June 

Pink 

Pink 
White 

Pink 
White 
White 
White 
White 

Erect-Arch. 

Erect-Spread. 
Erect-Spread. 

Spreading 
Spread  .-Arch. 
Spreading 
Spreading 
Spread.  -Arch. 

Double-Flow'g  Plum  .  . 
White  Kerria 

5-7 
3-5 

May 

Rose 

White 

Erect 
Spread.  -Arch. 

5 

White 

Rhus  cotinus  
Rhus  glabra  
Rhus  typhina  laciniata.  .  . 
Sambucus  canadensis  aurea 
Spiraea    Bumalda,    var. 
"Anthony  Waterer"  .  .  . 

Smoke  Bush  
Smooth  Sumach  
Staghorn  Sumach  
Golden  Elder  

Anthony  Waterer  Dwarf 

10-15 
10-12 
15 

8 

2 

July 
July 
July 
June 

Yellowish  Green 
Cream 
Cream 
White 

Crimson 

Erect-Spread  . 
Erect 
Erect 
Spreading 

Spreading 

Spiraea  Billardii  
Spiraea  opulifolia  var.  aurea 
Spiraea  Thunbergii  
Spiraea  Van  Houttei  
Symphoricarpus  racemosus 

Billard's  Spirea  
Ninebark  or  Golden  Spirea 
Thunberg's  Spirea  
Spirea  Van  Houttei  
Snowberry  

6 
7 
4 
6 
3 
10-15 

August 
June 
May 
May 
May 

Crimson 
White 
White 
White 
Pink 
Purple 

Spreading 
Spreading 
Spreading 
Spread.  -Arch. 
Arch.  -Spread. 
Spread.  -Erect 

Syringa  vulgaris  var.  alba 
Syringa  Japonica  

Common  White  Lilac.  .  .  . 
"Giant  Tree  Lilac"  

6 
15-20 

May 
June 

White 
Yellowish-White 

Erect-Spread. 
Erect 

'Belle  de  Nancy"  

6 

May 

Rose 

Spread.  -Erect 

6 

White 

Spread.  -Erect 

'Henri  Sladek"  

6 

May 

Reddish-Purple 

Spread.  -Erect 

6 

May 

Purple 

Spread.  -Erect 

6 

White 

Spread.  -Erect 

6 

May 

Deep  Lavender 

Spread.  -Erect 

'Pres.  Grevy"  

6 

May 

Blue 

Spread.  -Erect 

5 

White 

Spread.  -Erect 

Syringa  Persica  
Syringa  Rothomagensis  .  . 

Persian  Lilac  
Rouen  or  Chinese  Lilac  .  . 

5 
10-12 
8 

May 
May 
April 

White 
Purple 
Pink 

Erect-Arch. 
Arching 

Viburnum  dentatum  
Viburnum  lantana  

Arrow  Wood  
Wayfaring  Tree  

6 
10 

8 

June 
June 

White 
White 
White 

Erect 
Erect 
Erect-Arch. 

10-12 

White 

Spread.  -Erect 

Viburnum  plicatum  

Japan_  Snowball  

8 
2 

[May-June 

White 
White 

Spread.-Arch. 

Weigela    rosea  
Weigela    Candida  
Weigela      hybrida        var. 
Eva  Rathke  

Rose  Weigela  
White  Weigela  

Red  Weigela  

6 
6 

4 

May—  June 
June 

June-July 

Pink 
White 

Crimson 

Spreading 
Erect-Spread. 

Spread.  -Erect 

20 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


A  Select  List  of  Shrubs 


A  magnificent  group  of  hardy  flowering  shrubs 
for  a  lawn  or  garden  border.  The  Hibiscus  and 
Weigela  being  used  in  the  background  while 
Barberry  and  Deutzia  are  used  as  "facers"  in 
front  and  the  Snowball  either  in  the  border  or  as 
a  specimen  near  it. 

1.  Berberis  vulgaris  (Common  Barberry). 

2.  Viburnum  opulus  sterilis  (Snowball). 

3.  Deutzia  Lemoinei. 

4.  Hibiscus  (Althea) 

5.  Weigela  rosea. 


21 


AMELANCHIER  CANADENSIS,  June 
Berry.  Large  shrub  or  tree  of  upright  habit 
and  slender,  spreading  branches.  White 
flowers  profusely  borne  in  early  spring, 
usually  before  the  leaves  appear,  and  suc- 
ceeded by  red  edible  berries.  Very  orna- 
mental in  the  border. 

ARALIA  SPINOSA,  Chinese  Angelica  Tree 
(Hercules  Club) — -A  large  shrub  or  tree  to 
20  ft.,  with  heavy,  prickly  stems.  Foliage 
large  and  divided.  Hardier  than  A.  Chi- 
nensis.  Fine  for  rockery  and  dry  soils. 
Gives  a  fine  sub-tropical  appearance. 

ARALIA  PENTAPHYLLA,  Five-leaved  An- 
gelica Tree.  A  prickly  shrub  of  neat  appear- 
ance, bearing  dense  foliage  of  bright  green 
color  on  graceful,  drooping  branches.  Flowers 
greenish-white,  in  June.  Fine  for  rocky 
slopes,  banks  and  mass  planting.  Grows 
well  under  city  conditions  and  makes  a 
splendid  shrub  where  others  fail.  Grows 
to  10  ft.,  but  may  be  topped  any  height 
desired. 

BERBERIS  THUNBERGII,  Japanese  Bar- 
berry. A  charming  little  plant  that  adapts 
itself  to  almost  any  planting  and  environ- 
ment. Its  tiny  little  leaves  turn  to  a 
gorgeous  orange-red  before  they  fall  in  late 
autumn.  Masses  of  small,  sharp  thorns 
add  to  its  effectiveness  as  a  barrier,  while 
its  loads  of  scarlet  berries  give  it  unrivaled 
beauty  during  the  winter.  It  is  impartial 
as  to  soil  and  is  as  fond  of  sun  as  shade. 
It  endures  all  sorts  of  clipping  and  abuse — 
in  short,  it  is  our  most  valued  hedge  plant. 
Height  4  ft. 

BERBERIS  VULGARIS,  Common  Bar- 
berry. An  European  species,  growing  to 
6  ft.  Stocky  in  appearance;  an  erect, 
sturdy  grower  that  thrives  in  any  soil. 
Clusters  of  golden  flowers  are  produced  in 
May,  followed  by  orange-scarlet  berries 
which  are  adherent  throughout  the  winter. 
Although  secondary  to  B.  Thunbergii,  it 
is  popular  as  a  hedge  plant  as  well  as  effect- 
ive in  border  planting. 

BERBERIS  VULGARIS  ATROPURPU- 
REA,  Purple  Leaved  Barberry.  Shrub  of  up- 
right habit,  bearing  purple  foliage  throughout 
summer;  being  a  variety  developed  from  the 
above.  Reddish-purple  berries  in  autumn. 
Height  6  ft.  Effective  for  contrast  in  mass 
plantings.  Good  specimen  plant  for  variety. 
BUDDLEIA  VARIABILIS  MAGNIFICA, 
Butterfly  Bush.  Beautiful  shrub  to  4  ft. 
with  large  clusters  of  lilac  colored  flowers 
which  attract  butterflies  in  large  numbers. 
Sometimes  winter  kills  to  the  ground  and 
should  be  given  slight  protection  during 
winter.  Fine  for  border  front. 

CALYCANTHUS  FLORIDUS,  Carolina 
Allspice.  A  widely  known  shrub  with  dark 
green  foliage,  bearing  chocolate  colored, 
spicy,  aromatic  flowers  in  May.  Sometimes 
called  Strawberry  Bush,  as  the  odor  is  some- 
what similar  to  that  of  the  strawberry  fruit. 
Height  from  4  to  6  ft.  Succeeds  in  any  well- 
drained  rich  soil  and  in  shady  or  sunny 
locations.  A  good  border  plant  tor  massed 
effect. 

CEPHALANTHUS  OCCIDENTALS,  But- 
ton Bush.  A  sturdy  native,  round  topped 
shrub  of  rapid  growth,  preferring  a  damp 
soil,  but  will  thrive  in  upland.  Height  5 
to  7  ft.  Flowers  white,  in  globular  heads, 
during  July.  Bright,  glossy  foliage.  Recom- 
mended for  bog  planting,  in  moist  soils 
and  at  water  edges. 

CERCIS  CANADENSIS,  Red  Bud.  A 
native  shrub  or  medium  sized  tree  which 
produces  wonderfully  beautiful  coral  pink, 
pea-shaped  flowers  in  great  profusion  in 
the  spring,  before  the  leaves  unfold.  Height 
16  to  25  ft.  Leaves  heart-shaped.  A  good 
background  tree  for  borders  and  equally 
valuable  as  specimens  or  in  groups. 

CORNUS  ALBA  (SIBERICA),  Red  Stem 
Dogwood.  A  highly  ornamental  shrub  at- 
taining the  height  of  8  ft.  Clusters  of  white 
.  flowers,  succeeded  by  bright  red  berries  in 
autumn.  Should  be  planted  in  shrubbery 
border  where  the  bright  red  stems  will  show 
to  advantage  during  winter.  The  very 
best  of  the  red  twigged  varieties. 


CORNUS  FLORIDA,  White  Flowering 
Dogwood.  A  native  shrub  from  10  to  15  ft. 
high.  Flowers  in  great  profusion  in  May. 
Very  showy.  Leaves  waxy.  Rather  slow 
growth  with  spreading  branches.  Some 
of  the  most  enchanting  results  in  orna- 
mental planting  are  attained  by  the  use  of 
this  beautiful  Dogwood.  Indispensable  for 
lawn  or  landscapes,  as  specimens,  or  in  border. 
CORNUS  FLORIDA  RUBRA,  Red  Flower- 
ing Dogwood.  A  pink  flowering  variety  of 
the  preceding,  furnishing  a  delightful  con- 
trast when  planted  in  combination,  but  is 
somewhat  less  hardy  and  free  flowering. 
DEUTZIA  GRACILIS.  An  old  fashioned, 
dense  shrub  of  dwarf  habit.  Flowers  pure 
white  and  abundantly  produced  on  graceful, 
drooping  branches  in  May.  Very  desirable 
for  massing  along  front  of  border.  Height 
rarely  exceeds  2  ft.  Often  used  for  forcing 
in  the  hothouse.  Equally  good  in  sun  or 
shade.  Slightly  tender  in  northern  states. 
DEUTZIA  LEMOINEI,  Lemoine's  Deutzia. 
One  of  the  hardiest  Deutzias.  Flowers 
pure  white,  borne  abundantly  along  the  slen- 
der branches.  Slightly  larger  and  much 
hardier  than  Gracilis.  Shrub  of  spreading 
habit  to  3  ft.  A  fine  shrub  massed  near  the 
house  or  as  a  specimen  plant. 
'DEUTZIA  SCABRA,  "Pride  of  Rochester." 
One  of  the  earliest  flowering  Deutzias. 
Flowers  double;  borne  in  profuse  panicles 
during  the  early  part  of  May.  Some- 
times winter-killed  in  more  northern  states. 
Often  attains  6  ft.  At  its  best  in  the  border, 
where  it  readily  proves  its  right  to  the 
claim  of  being  the  finest  tall  growing  Deutzia. 

EUONYMUS  ALATUS,  Winged  Burning 
Bush.  Compact  spreading  shrub  to  8  ft. 
Flowers  small  in  May  or  June,  followed  by 
red  berries.  Foliage  beautiful  crimson  in 
autumn.  Very  attractive  as  a  border  or 
specimen  plant.  Particularly  interesting 
and  ornamental  because  of  its  curious 
corky-winged  bark  on  twigs  and  branches. 

FORSYTHIA  FORTUNEI,  Fortune's  For- 
sythia.  A  vigorous  shrub  with  upright  or 
arching  branches.  Flowers  yellow,  thickly 
set  on  slender  twigs  before  leaves  appear, 
making  it  a  very  valuable  early  flowering 
whrub.  A  good  5  ft.  plant  for  front  of  border 

FORSYTHIA  SUSPENSA.  A  graceful, 
drooping  shrub,  which,  when  trained  on  a 
trellis,  will  grow  to  8  to  10  ft.,  but  when  left 
alone,  rarely  exceeds  4  ft.  An  excellent 
shrub  for  front  of  border  or  entrance  plant- 
ing; also  extensively  used  on  banks  and 
slopes.  Conspicuous  yellow  flowers,  freely 
borne  early  in  April,  before  its  elegant 
foliage  opens. 

HAMAMELIS  VIRGINIANA,  Witch  Hazel. 
Shrub  or  small  tree  to  20  ft.,  bearing  small, 
yellow  flowers  in  spring  or  autumn.  Succeeds 
best  in  rather  sandy  soil  and  moist  places. 
Perfectly  hardy.  Valuable  for  deep  border 
planting. 


Hydrangea  P.  G. — immense  blooms 
that  are  very  popular. 


Spirea  Van  Houttei 

— the  one  best 

shrub. 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 


HIBISCUS,  Altheas.     Double  red.     A  profusion  of  beautiful  double 

red  flowers  in  July  and  August.  Bush  upright  growing  to  5  ft.    Altheas 

are  familiar  shrubs,  deserving  of  more  popularity.     They  grow  almost 

anywhere    from    Canada    to    the    southern  coast. 

HIBISCUS,     Altheas.    Double    purple.    Very    attractive     in     flower, 

being  an  unusually  fine  purple  color. 

HIBISCUS,     Altheas.  Double    rose.    Double    pink    flowers   similar  in 

habit  to  the  foregoing. 

HIBISCUS,      Altheas.     "Snowdrift."       A    profusely  flowering  single 

white  variety. 

HIBISCUS  SYRIACUS,  Rose  of  Sharon.    Fine  single  purple  flowers 

in  profusion.     Fine  for  border  planting;   6  to  8  ft.   in  height. 

HIBISCUS   TOTUS  ALBA,  White  Rose  of  Sharon.     A  beautiful  pure 

white  single  variety.     Bush  6  ft.  in  height. 

HYDRANGEA  ARBORESCENS  GRANDIFLORA  (STERILIS). 

Hills  of  Snow.  An  erect  shrub  to  4  or  5  ft.  with  large  white  balls 
of  flowers  in  July  and  August,  resembling  the  Snowball,  but  larger. 
Very  attractive  planted  in  large  groups  in  the  border. 

HYDRANGEA  PANICULATA  GRANDIFLORA.  A  beautiful  shrub 
to  8  ft.,  bearing  immense  cone-shaped  clusters  of  white  flowers  in 
July  and  August;  almost  sterile;  turns  a  bright  pink,  and  finally, 
to  bronze,  as  they  become  older.  Very  attractive  when  planted 
at  the  extremity  of  a  neck  of  planting  extending  out  on  the  lawn 
or  as  specimen  plants  near  the  house.  It  should  be  cut  back  every 
spring  before  growth  starts.  There  is  no  shrub  more  showy  than 
this  old  favorite. 

LONICERA  FRAGRANTISSIMA,  Fragrant  Bush  Honeysuckle. 
Sweet  scented,  white  flowers,  in  May;  not  very  showy.  Height  4  to 
6  ft.  with  dark  green  foliage.  Sparingly  in  border  where  deep  color 
is  desired. 

LONICERA  GRANDIFLORA  ROSEA,  Pink-flowered  Honeysuckle. 
Large  pink  flowers,  followed  by  red  berries  which  are  very  showy 
in  late  summer.  Good  border  plant.  Like  others  of  this  group, 
it  is  hardy  and  transplants  easily. 

LONICERA  MORROWI,  Japanese  Bush  Honey  suckle.  An  open 
spreading  bush  from  Japan,  bearing  dark  green  leaves  and  white 
flowers  in  May,  followed  by  bright  red  berries,  which  are  very 
ornamental  in  late  summer.  Height  6  ft.  Adapted  to  border  planting. 
LONICERA  TATARICA  ALBA.  Large  white  flowers,  followed 
by  very  ornamental  scarlet  berries  in  August.  A  very  useful  shrub 
for  general  planting;  slender  upright  branches  and  excellent  dark 
green  foliage. 

LONICERA  TATARICA  RUBRA.  Deep  pink  flowers  in  May. 
The  bright  red  berries  are  very  ornamental  in  late  summer.  Height 
5  ft.  Good  for  front  of  border  planting.  The  flowers  contrast 
beautifully  with  the  foliage.  This  and  L.  Grandiflora  Rosea  appear  to 
fine  advantage  when  planted  together. 

PHILADELPHUS  CORONARIUS.  Sometimes  grows  10  ft.  high. 
Creamy  white,  and  very  delightfully  fragrant.  Flowers  are  produced 
freely  in  May  and  June.  Presents  a  very  ornamental  and  attractive 
appearance  in  the  border.  It  is  of  spreading  habit  and  its  arching 
branches  should  be  allowed  sufficient  room  to  fully  develop. 
Good  specimen  plant  on  the  lawn.  Without  hesitation,  we  commend 
it  to  every  planter. 

PHILADELPHUS  CORONARIUS  AUREUS,  Golden  Syringa.  A 
variety  of  P.  Coronarius,  with  golden  yellow  foliage  throughout  sum- 
mer. Flowers  sparingly.  Of  compact  growth,  to  3  ft.  Very  effective 
for  edges  of  shrubbery. 

PHILADELPHUS  GORDONIANUS,  Gordon's  Syringa.  A  fine 
shrub,  with  flowers  similar  to  the  preceding,  but  later  in  period 
of  bloom  and  scentless.  Grows  to  12  ft.  and  is  especially 
adapted  to  the  border  where  tall  spreading  plants  are 
desired.  Practically  immune  from  insect  pests,  and, 
like  the  other  varieties, 
named,  is  a  strong,  vigorous 
grower  and  thrives  in  partial 
shade  as  well  as  in  sunn" 
locations. 


Spirea  Billardi 
"Pink  Plumed  Spirea." 


ROSA  RUGOSA,  Japanese  Rose.  A  beautiful  bush  to  5  ft.  with  rich, 
dark  green  crumpled  foliage,  which  in  itself,  is  sufficient  to  make  this 
sturdy  rose  a  part  of  every  ornamental  planting.  Flowers  single 
red  or  white,  followed  by  large  attractive  orange-red  fruits.  Fine 
for  hedge  and  mass  planting. 

RHUS  COTINUS,  Smoke  Bush,  Purple  Fringe.  A  native  ot 
Europe,  growing  from  10  to  15  ft.  high.  The  feathery  flowers 
are  purplish  and  cover  the  entire  bush,  giving  it  the  striking 
appearance  of  smoke,  from  a  distance.  A  good  specimen  plant 
or  for  background  in  deep  borders. 

RHUS  GLABRA,  Smooth  Sumac.  A  tall  shrub,  10  to  12  ft.  in 
height,  with  smooth  bark.  Flowers,  July,  produced  at  the  end  of 
branches,  followed  by  clusters  of  dark  crimson  berries.  Bright 
colored  foliage;  very  attractive  in  autumn.  One  of  the  best 
for  massing  in  the  border. 

RHUS  TYPHINA  LACINIATA,  Cut  Leaved  Staghorn  Sumac.    Shrub 


PHILADELPHUS  LEMOI- 

NEI,  Lemoine's  Syringa.     A 

sweet-scented  hybrid,  smaller 

than    the    preceding,    rarely 

exceeding  4  ft.  Erect  grow- 
ing, with  small  foliage. 

Creamy  white  flowers  in  June 
entirely  cover  the 
plant.  Used  at 
edge  of  border  or 
for  entrance  plant- 
ings. 

PRUNUS     TRIL- 
OBA,        Flowering 
Almond.  A  Chinese 
shrub    which     pro- 
duces   abundant    pink,    double    rose-like 
flowers    before    the    leaves   appear  in  the 
spring.     Very  attractive. 

RHODOTYPUS  KERRIOIDES, 
White  Kerria.  Introduced  from 
Japan.  3  to  5  ft.  high.  Flowers  white; 
late  May,  followed  by  conspicuous 
lustrous  black  seeds  which  cling  to 
the  plant  all  winter.  Foliage  light 
green,  turning  golden  yellow  the  latter 
part  of  summer.  Requires  little 
attention  and  is  one  of  the  very  best 
ow  shrubs. 


The  Shrubs  Illustrated  Above 

/.     An  ideal  planting  about  a  cottage  door, 

2.  Persian  lilac  (Syringa  persica). 

3.  Rose    Acacia    or    Moss   Locust  (Robinia 

hispida). 

4.  Philadelphus   coronarius    (Fragrant   Gar- 

land Syringa.) 

5.  Japanese  Rose  (Rosa  Rugosa) 

6.  Golden  Spirea  (Spirea  opulifolia  aurea). 

7.  Golden  Elder  (Simbucus  aurea) . 

8.  Philadelphus   Gordonianus    (Gordon's 

Syringa) . 

9.  Allhea  or  Rose  of  Sharon  (Hibiscus). 
10.     Tamarix  Africana  (Tamarisk). 

[221 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


or  small  tree  attaining  15  ft.  Very  picturesque  with  its  finely 
cut  fern-like  foliage.  The  crimson  berries  and  brilliant  colored 
foilage  are  very  attractive  in  autumn.  Will  grow  in  dry  soil  as 
well  as  almost  any  other.  Good  for  deep  border  planting  or  in- 
dividual groups. 

SAMBUCUS  AUREA,  Golden  Elder.  A  golden  leaved  variety 
of  the  common  European  Elder.  Very  attractive.  Will  grow 
to  8  ft.,  but  can  be  pruned  back  into  a  neat  shrub  any  height. 
Large  clusters  of  white  flowers  in  June  or  July,  followed  by  black 
berries  in  August.  Very  good  for  contrast  in  dark  places  of  the 
border. 

SPIRAEA  "ANTHONY   WATERER."  A   very    good   variety   of    S 
Bumalda,     bearing    flat    clusters   of   bright   pink    flowers   throughout 
summer,     starting    in    June.     Height    2    ft.     A   dwarf    shrub    which 
is   very   desirable   for   planting  about  the  building. 
SPIRAEA     BILLAROII,     Pink-Plumed  Spirea.      A  shrub  of  rather 


open  habit,  with  small  foliage.  Vigorous  and  hardy,  0  ft.  in  height. 
Flowers  densely  clustered  at  the  end  of  long,  slender  branches;  July 
and  August.  Good  border  plant,  showy  and  attractive.  Splendid 
also  for  cut  flowers  and  interior  decoration. 

SPIRAEA  OPULIFOLIA  AUREA,  Golden  Spirea.  A  vigorous 
growing  shrub  to  7  ft.  with  golden  yellow  foliage.  Flowers  white 
in  June.  Good  for  contrast  in  deep  colored  borders. 
SPIRAEA  THUNBERGII,  Thunberg's  Spirea.  Agraceful  bush  with 
slightly  drooping  branches  and  narrow  pale  green  foliage.  Of 
dwarf  habit,  rounded  graceful  form,  growing  to  4  ft.  Flowers  single 
white,  borne  very  early  in  spring,  being  the  first  Spirea  to  bloom. 
Its  neat  habit  makes  it  desirable  for  border  fronts  and  around 
buildings. 

SPIRAEA  VAN  HOUTTEI.  One  of  the  best  shrubs  on  the  list 
B4kt  of  all  varieties  of  Spirea.  Grows  to  6  ft.,  bearing  clusters  of 
small  white  flowers  in  May  and  June  which  almost  entirely  cover 
the  bush,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  huge  snowball  from  a  distance. 
Of  graceful  drooping  habit  and  well  adapted  to  grouping  in  front 
of  buildings  or  around  entrances.  Also  a  fine  border  plant.  A 
neat,  elegant  shrub  that  can  not  be  too  highly  recommended. 

SYMPHORICARPUS  RACEMOSUS,  Snowberry.  A  low  growing 
shrub  to  3  ft.  Flowers  small,  pink,  followed  by  large,  pure  white 
berries  which  remain  on  the  plant  late  into  winter,  causing  the 
slender  branches  to  bend  with  their  load.  Desirable  for  front  of 
border  or  around  entrances. 


Syringa-Lilac 


COMMON  PURPLE  LILAC.  Purple  tints;  slightly  smaller  flowers 
and  clusters  than  the  budded  varieties.  A  widely  known  shrub; 
most  common  and  indispensable  species,  equally  adaptid  to  the 
small  lawn  or  the  large  estate.  Height  6  ft. 

COMMON  WHITE  LILAC.  A  white  ftowered  variety  of  the  above 
species,  very  similar.  '  Height  6  ft.  Claims  introduction  to  America 
by  the  Pilgrims,  and  with  the  revived  interest  in  old-fashioned  gardens, 
it  shares  the  popularity  of  the  other  lilacs. 

GIANT  TREE  LILAC.  A  late  blooming  variety  producing  large 
clusters  of  attractive  white  flowers  after  most  other  varieties  are 
past.  Sometimes  attains  the  height  of  15  to  20  ft. 
BELLE  DE  NANCY,  Budded  Lilac.  Large  double  flowers  of  a 
satiny  rose  color  blending  to  white  towards  the  center.  An  excellent 
variety. 

FRAU  DAMMANN,  Budded  Lilac.  Large,  single  white  flowers 
in  immense  clusters.  A  strong  grower  to  6  ft.  Universally  con- 
sidered one  of  the  best  white  lilacs  cultivated. 

HENRI  SLADEK,  Budded  Lilac.  Immense  clusters  of  dark,  red- 
dish-purple flowers.  One  of  the  best.  Originated  in  our  nurseries 
and  named  after  one  of  our  employees  who  first  propagated  it.  An 
improved  variety  of  Ludwig  Spaeth. 

LUDWIG  SPAETH,   Budded    Lilac. 

Single    flowers    of    large    size.      Of  a  dark. 

purplish-red    color.    Among    the    finest    on 

the  list.     Very    attractive    and    thoroughly 

distinctive. 

MADAME    ABEL    CHATENAY,   Budded 

Lilac.       A  creamy-white  variety  with  large 

double,     very     fragrant    flowers.     Without 

doubt  the  finest  white  lilac. 

MICHAEL     BUCHNER,     Budded     Lilac. 

A  dwarf,  but  a  vigorous  grower.       Flowers 

very  double,  pale  lilac  color.    Worthy  of  a 

place  in  every  lilac  group. 

PRESIDENT      GREVY,      Budded     Lilac. 

Large,  individual   double   flowers  of  a  very 

beautiful,  distinct  blue  color.  The  best  blue. 

MARIE      LE      GRAYE,      Budded     Lilac. 

Large    trusses  of  single  pure  white    flowers 

which  are  very  fragrant.    Very  free  grower 

to  5  ft. 


>    ' 


A  Choice  List  of  Shrubs 

11.      A  tista  through,  an    entrance  flanked  with 
Spirea. 

13.  President  Grevy  Lilac — 14  inches  tall. 

15.  Crimson  Spirea  (Spirea  Anthony  Waterer) 

14.  White      Flowering      Bush       Honeysuckle 

(Lonicera). 
Id.     Bush  Honeysuckle  in  Clumps. 

16.  A  branch  of  Philadelphus  coronarius. 

17.  Snowball  (Viburnum,  Opulus  Sterilis). 

15.  Madame  Abel  Chatenay  Lilac. 

10.      Aralia  Penlaphylla  ( Angelica  tree) . 

20.     Snowberry  (Symphoricarpus  racemosus) . 


231 


PERSIAN 
LAC,     Syr 

Persica. 
clusters  < 
pliah-lilai 
ers  bor 
June,  on 
der,  are 
branches 
fragrant, 
early  flo 
sort  in 
5  ft.  hig] 

ROUEN 
LAC,    S 

Rathoma 
A       fine 

blooming  sort  with  large  truss 
beautiful  reddish-purple  flowers 
good  variety.  Its  narrow  leav 
different  from  those  of  any  oth< 
TAMARIX  AFRICANA,  Tai 
A  feathery,  ight  green  foliagec 
of  upright  habit,  growing  to  8 
height.  Flowers  small,  bright  pink 
in  slender  clusters;  April  or  May. 
ed  to  damp  places  or  seashore  pi; 
Will  give  variety  to  the  border. 


LI- 

iringa 
Large 
f  pur 

flow 
le 

si 


14 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 

mlllllllNNIINIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINIIIIIW 


VIBURNUM  DENTATUM,  Arrowwood.  A 
native  shrub  with  slender,  smooth  branches. 
Flowers  in  June;  creamy  white,  borne  in 
flat  clusters,  sometimes  6  in.  in  diameter  and 
followed  by  dark  blue  berries.  Height  6  ft. 
Suitable  for  damp  places  in  the  border; 
succeeds  well  in  shade. 

VIBURNUM  LANTANA,  Wayfaring  Tree. 
An  upright  growing 
shrub  of  compact 
habit,  to  10  ft.  White 
flowers  in  May,  fol- 
lowed by  pink  berries 
which  later  turn  red, 
then  black.  Very 
attractive  fruit. 
Good  for  tall  border 
planting. 

VIBURNUM  OPU- 
LUS,  High  Bush 
Cranberry.  A  showy 
shrub  bearing  flat 
clusters  of  pure  white 
flowers.  The  bright 
red  berries,  resem- 
bling the  cranberry, 
make  it  one  of  the 
best  red  berried 
shrubs  for  winter 
effect.  Height  8  ft. 


Viburnum  lantana — 
with  its  misty  appear- 
ance and  splendid 
bloom. 


VIBURNUM  OPULUS  STERILIS,  Snow- 
ball. A  variety  of  the  above,  but  much 
more  attractive,  with  its  large,  round  heads 
of  pure  white  sterile  flowers,  which  are  so 
familiar  on  Decoration  Day.  Makes  a 
fine  specimen  plant  and  is  good  in  the  border 
where  it  attains  the  height  of  10  or  12  ft. 

VIBURNUM  TOMENTOSUM  PLICA- 
TUM,  Japanese  Snowball.  A  free  growing 
shrub  of  spreading  habit,  often  attaining 
8  ft.  in  height.  Flowers  pure  white,  n  June, 
produced  in  large  clusters. 


the  best  and  most  popular  of  all  hybrids  of 
this  genus.  We  can  recommend  but  few 
other  plants  that  will  give  such  uniyersal 
satisfaction  as  this  and  the  other  species  of 
Weigela;  they  are  hardy  and  of  easy  culti- 
vation. 

YUCCA  FILAMENTOSA,  Adams  Needle. 
A  hardy  plant  with  broad  pointed  sword- 
shaped  foliage.  Flowers  are  creamy  white, 
thickly  set,  on  a  tall  stem,  in  June.  Very 
showy  when  in  blossom.  Good  for  planting 
in  front  of  border  or  in  groups  separately. 

Paeonies 

This   favorite   of   the    old   fashioned   garden, 
which  our  grandmothers  called  the  "Piney," 
is  increasing  in  popularity  each  year.     The 
many   new   valuable   varieties   give   an  ever- 
increasing  interest  to 
7     their    planting.    The 
largest      blooms     of 
any     of     the     hardy 
garden  flowers.    Can 
be   planted    in   front 
of  the  shrub  border. 
In    full    bloom    Dec- 
oration Day  and  are 
grown  for  profit  with 
great  success.  Require 
little    care.    Descrip- 
tion  of  other   hardy 
flowers,  page  19. 

ASSORTED  VARI- 
ETIES. Our  own  se- 
lection of  many  kinds. 
The  best  varieties  we 
grow  and  repre- 
senting the  most 
harmonious  colors. 


High  Bush  Cranberry 

(Viburnum  Opulus) — • 

Valued  for  bloom  and 

red  berries. 


FESTIVA  MAXIMA.      Probably  the  largest 

and  most  popular  Paepny.     Borne  on  long, 

stiff     stems;    white,    slightly    suffused    shell 

pink;  late. 

EDULIS    SUPERBA.          Large,    rose-pink, 

fluffy    bloom.     A    charming    flower    and    one 

of  the  earliest  blooming. 

EUGENE  VERDIER.       Broad,  full  flowers; 

white,    evenly    tinted    with    shell    pink.     A 

fine  sort.     Late. 


Wisteria   Sinensis 

Admired  for  porches  and  pergolas',  purple  and 
white  bloom.  An  excellent  climber  and  fast  grower. 

OFFICINALIS     RUBRA.  Rich,     deep 

crimson.  Known  as  the  "Decoration  Day 
Peony,"  because  of  its  blooming  season. 
QUEEN  VICTORIA.  Magnificent  white, 
edged  with  pink.  Faultless  in  form  and 
very  popular. 

FELIX  CROUSSE.  Large,  round,  per- 
fectly double.  Deep  crimson,  marked  with 
cardinal  at  base  of  petals.  Late. 


Edulis  Suberba. 

One  of  the  leaders — • 
very  early. 

WEIGELA     ROSEA, 

Rose       Weigela.  A 

spreading    shrub   with 

arching  branches;  large 

tubular  flowers  in  early 

June,     varying      from 

light  to  dark  rosy-pink 

color,    freely  borne  on 

the     stout      branches. 

Height  6  ft.       Leaves 

dark    green.      Thrives 

in     any     soil,     but 

prefers       damp        and 

somewhat       shaded 

positions  in  a  good  garden  soil.     A  delightful 

shrub   for   massing   about  foundations   when 

kept  pruned  in.     Useful   as  specimens,   and 

desirable  for  groups  or  masses. 

WEIGELA  CANDIDA,  White  Weigela.  A 
free-flowering,  white  variety  of  the  preceding. 
Strong,  upright  grower  to  6  ft.  Continues 
to  bloom  throughout  the  summer. 

WEIGELA  H  YBRIDA  var.  EVA  RATHKE, 

Red  Flowering  Weigela.  A  shrub  to  4  ft. 
with  clusters  of  brilliant,  carmine-red 
flowers  on  erect  branches  in  spring  and 
autumn.  An  attractive  border  plant;  easily 


Vines  and  Climbers 


unit'   tu   HiUil   tilt:   viuea  au  as   to  luiiii  a  atjiiu     i;uvciiug,     aiiutLiiig     UUL     ail 

sunlight;  it  is  best  to  leave  the  other  sides  partly  open.  In  other  words, 
'  train  your  vines  around  the  columns  and  across  the  top,  thus  making 
|  a  frame  with  vines,  and  leaving  an  open  space  in  the  middle  for  the  view. 


Festiva  maxima — 

growing  in  our  fields 

—  very  late. 


ASIATIC    CREEPER,    Ampelopsis   Heterophylla.     Hardy     vine     with 

heart-shaped  leaves   and   greenish-white    flowers,    in   July,   followed  by 

blue  berries.     Good  on  low  walls  or  trellis. 

AMERICAN  IVY,  Ampelopsis  Quinquefolia.   An  excellent  climber  with 

beautiful   green,    divided  leaves  which  turn  a  bright  crimson  in  autumn. 

Fine     for     covering     old     tree     trunks,   trellises,    stone    walls,   etc.     A 

rapid  grower  and  perfectly  hardy. 

BOSTON     IVY,      Ampelopsis     Veitchii.     A 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^         hardy  vine  with  small,  neat,  compact  foliage. 
A  familiar  vine  used  extensively  for  covering 
churches,  stone  or  brick  residences  and  walls. 
Clings    tightly    to    any    support.     A    rapid 
>  «JB  grower,  but  produces  a  lighter  vine  than  the 

preceding. 

DUTCHMAN'S    PIPE,    Aristolochia    Sipho. 
ji^.r'*  "  A  tall,  rapid  growing,  twining  vine,  bearing 

-Hi*  curious    pipe-shaped    flowers    of    a    purplish- 

brown  color.  Leaves  very  large,  affording 
a  dense  shade.  A  fine  porch  climber. 

BITTER  SWEET,  Celastris  Scandens.  A 
vigorous  growing  native  vine.  Very  at- 
tractive in  winter  with  its  bright  crimson 
berries.  Large  leaves  and  yellow  flowers. 

CLEMATIS  "HENRYI."  A  free  bloom- 
ing, creamy-white  variety.  Flowers  large 
and  attractive.  One  of  the  best. 

CLEMATIS  "JACKMANNI.'  A  rich, 
violet-purple  flower  of  large  size.  A  free 
growing  vine  which  blossoms  abundantly. 
Fine  for  trellis  or  porch. 


Queen  Victoria  Paeony — worthy  of  its  name. 

Paeonies  have  been  the  favorite  perennials  for 

three  generations. 


[24] 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


CLEMATIS  "MADAME  ANDRE."  Large 
beautiful  crimson-red  flowers  throughout  the 
season.  Vine  a  vigorous  grower  and  much 
desired  as  a  trellis  climber. 

CLEMATIS  PANICULATA  GRANDI- 
FLORA.  A  very  popular  variety  with  great 
masses  of  small  fragrant,  white,  star-shaped 
flowers.  A  rapid  and  vigorous  grower, 
covering  an  arbor  or  trellis  in  a  short  time. 
The  feathery  seeds  are  very  attractive  after 
the  leaves  have  fallen.  A  most  desirable 
climber. 

HONEYSUCKLE,  HALL'S  JAPAN,  Loni- 
cera  Halleana.  A  half  evergreen  vine  re- 
taining its  foliage  until  late  in  winter. 
Flowers  white,  turning  to  yellow  as  they  grow 


older.  Good  for  covering  low  walis.  Trained 
on  a  fence,  it  makes  a  beautiful  hedge. 
TRUMPET  HONEYSUCKLE,  Lonicera 
Sempervirens .  A  vigorous,  rapid  grower, 
with  bright  red  flowers.  Attractive  on  walls. 
TRUMPET  CREEPER,  Tecoma  Radicans. 
A  robust  native  vine  of  twining  habit. 
Flowers  trumpet-shaped  and  orange-colored. 
Used  quite  often  along  low  walls. 
WISTERIA  SINENSIS.  A  graceful  -vine 
of  rapid  growth.  Flowers  pea-shaped  and 
pale  blue,  in  long  clusters.  A  good  porch 
and  arbor  climber. 

WISTARIA  SINENSIS  ALBA.  Similar 
to  the  preceding,  but  with  white  flowers.  A 
beautiful  climber. 


Hedges  for  Living  Fences 

THE  use  of  wooden,  wire  or  iron  fences  around  the  home  is  becoming  a  thing  of  the  past. 
These  fences  are  expensive  to  keep  in  repair,  and  they  are  far  from  being  things  of 
beauty.     Is  it  not  better  to  plant  a  hedge  which  will  grow  stronger,  more  beautiful 
and  more  permanent  every  year  instead  of  requiring  additional  repairs?     Hedges  have 
appropriately  been  called  "living  fences."  They  serve  as  a  protection  from  outside  intrusion, 
and    at   the    same  time   are   beautiful.    Hedges   can   be  used   for    marking  boundary  lines  of 
the  your  property  where   division   is  desired.      How  much  prettier  is  this  wall  of  solid    rich 
green  than  an  ugly  artificial  looking  fence!     A  hedge  is  usually  made  up  of  straight,  hard  lines. 
In  order  to  make  it  appear  more  naturalistic,  a  few  groups  of  the  same  plant  or  other  shrubs 
can  be  planted  in  clumps  at  irregular  intervals  along  the  hedge  and  they  will  break  up  the 
straight  lines  of  the  hedge. 


BARBERRY,  JAPANESE,  Berberis  Thun- 
bergii.  One  of  the  hardiest  and  best  hedge 
plants.  See  description  under  shrubs. 
PRIVET,  IBOTA,  Ligustrum  Ibota.  The 
hardiest  Privet.  Excellent  for  hedges.  Of 
upright  habit  with  narrow  green  leaves  and 
clusters  of  fragrant  white  flowers.  Good  for 
massed  planting. 

PRIVET,  CALIFORNIA,  Ligustrum  Ovali- 
folium.  The  most  familiar  of  hedge  plants. 
Flowers  pure  white  in  July.  Foliage  glossy 

S'een.     Will    grow    in    city    or    at    seashore, 
an    be    pruned    to    any    height.     Excellent 
hedge    plant,  but   cannot   rely    on    hardiness 
north. 

PRIVET,  REGELS,  Ligustrum  Regelianum. 
A  variety  of  the  preceding.  Readily  dis- 
tinguished by  the  almost  parallel  slender 
branches  which  slightly  droop,  giving  the 
plant  a  most  graceful  appearance.  Fine  for 
border  planting. 

PRIVET,  COMMON,  Ligustrum  Vulgare. 
A  half  evergreen  form  with  dark  green 
foliage  and  white  flowers.  June  or  July. 
Leaves  turn  purplish  in  the  fall.  Excellent 
for  massing  in  the  border. 
PRIVET,  AMOOR  RIVER,  NORTH, 
Ligustrum  Amurense.  A  shrub  of  upright 
growth  with  shiny  foliage  and  white  flowers. 
Hardier  than  the  California  Privet.  An 
excellent  hedge  plant.  A  good  border  plant 
for  massing  when  unpruned.  Has  proved 
hardy  in  Maine,  with  the  thermometer 
registering  38  degrees  below  zero. 
MOCK  ORANGE,  Philadelphia  Coronarius. 
An  excellent  high  hedge  to  10  ft.  Used 
extensively  as  a  screen  to  shut  out  undesirable 
views.  Described  more  fully  under  shrubs. 
SPIREA  VAN  HOUTTEI.  The  best  5  ft. 
hedge  plant.  Slender,  drooping  branches. 

Japanese  Barberry 

Heads  the  list  of  hardy  hedge  plants — it  is  con- 
sidered an  ideal  hedge — red  berries  in  Winter. 


The  Home  Fruit  Garden 

The  following  is  a  select  list  of  the  best  varie- 
ties for  home  use.  Each  fruit  is  given  in  its 
order  of  ripening — earliest  ripening  sorts  first, 
latest  ripening  sorts  last: 

Dwarf     Apple.  Liveland     Raspberry, 

Henry  Clay,  Wilson  Red  June,  Grimes  Gol- 
den, Stark  King  David,  Stark  Delicious. 

Crab  Apple.     Florence. 

Dwarf  Pear.  Stark  Seckel,  Duchess, 
Anjou,  Triumph  and  Gold  Nugget. 

Cherry.  Dyehouse,  Stark  Gold,  Mont- 
morency  Stark,  Suda  Hardy. 

Quince.    Missouri  Mammoth,  Van  Deman. 

Apricot.     Superb  and  Stella. 

Peach.  Red  Bird  Cling,  June  Elberta, 
Eureka,  Alton,  Stark  Early  Elberta,  J.  H. 
Hale,  Sea  Eagle,  Krummel  October,  Mam- 
moth Heath  Cling. 

Plum.  Mammoth  Gold,  Early  Gold, 
America  and  Omaha. 

Small  fruits  may  be  planted  in  a  separate 
part  of  the  garden  or  they  can  be  planted  in 
rows  between  the  fruit  trees. 


American  Ivy 

A  universal  favorite 

quick  grower, 

healthy. 


A  hedge  of  Spirea 
Van  Houttei  grown 
from  Stark  Bro's 
stock.  A  magnificent 
naturalistic  hedge. 


Boston  Ivy 

Beautiful  on  stone  or  brick. 

The  following  are  the  proper  distances  for 
planting  of  the  different  small  fruits: 

Grape  Vines.  8  ft.  apart;  currant 
and  gooseberry,  4  ft;  blackberry  and  rasp- 
berry, 3  ft.  apart  in  the  row  and  rows  5 
ft.  wide 

Rhubarb.     3   ft.  apart. 

Asparagus,  1 %  ft.  apart,  rows  3  ft.  wide. 


California  Privet 

A  standard  hedge  plant,  one  of  a  group 
of  Privets  all  of  which  are  splendid 
for  hedges.  Each  has  its  peculiar  value 
but  none  are  more  popular  than  this. 


25 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 


The  Rose  Garden 


The  Rose  is  the  nationa  flower,  and  in  all 
sections,  and  under  all  conditions,  it  is  grown 
by  careful,  jealous  hands,  and  its  first  blossoms 
each  season  are  eagerly  awaited. 
The  artist  has  spread  its  glory  on  the  can- 
vass, the  poet  has  sung  of  its  beauty  and  its 
sweetness.  Youth,  manhood,  old  age — 
all  peoples,  in  all  walks  of  life,  have  pro- 
claimed the  Rose  the  "Queen  of  Flowers." 
No  flower  can  ever  take  the  place  of  the 
Rose  with  the  American  people. 
They  should  be  growing  in  great  beds  on 
all  home  grounds.  Roses  will  repay  the 
care  given  them  by  a  wealth  of  sweetest, 
brightest  blossoms  and  bring  pleasure  to  the 
heart  of  their  owners. 

Stark  Bro's  Quality  Roses 

Rose  growers  have  produced  Rose  varieties 
by  the  thousands,  and  from  this  great  list 
we  have  selected  the  choicest  ones.  The 
most  beautifully  colored,  the  most  perfectly 
formed,  keeping  in  mind  the  fact  that 
strong  growth,  vigor  and  hardiness  is  neces- 
sary. The  kinds  we  offer  are  the  best — 
the  choice  from  the  Rose  gardens  of  the 
world  and  are  grown  according  to  the  perfect 
Stark  growing  method.  They  are  prac- 
tically all  on  their  own  roots.  We  have  found 
from  experience  that  only  a  few  varieties, 
should  be  grown  by  the  budding  method.  The 
plants  we  offer  are  strong,  field-grown  stock, 
which  has  had  two  years'  growth  in  the 
nursery.  The  small,  light,  weak-rooted 
stock  that  is  sent  out  at  cheap  bargain 
prices,  is  a  snare  and  a  delusion — will  never 
give  satisfaction  to  the  customer  and  is 
very  hard  to  make  live.  On  the  other  hand, 
extra  strong,  heavily  rooted,  field-grown 
plants,  which  are  delivered  to  the  customer 
from  our  nursery  in  a  dormant  condition, 
become  quickly  established,  and  make  a 
strong,  thrifty  growth  the  first  season, 
furnishing  considerable  bloom  the  same  year 
they  are  planted.  Stark  Bro's  Roses  are 
not  tender,  weak  plants,  grown  under  glass. 
On  the  contrary,  they  have  had  two  years  in 
the  nursery  to  become  adapted  to  out-of- 
doors  conditions  of  heat  and  cold;  they  are 
delivered  to  the  customer  with  roots  and 
tops  in  moist,  plump  condition. 

Walks  in  Rose  Gardens 

In  the  rose  garden  of  the  American  home, 
grass  paths,  or  walks  are  preferable.  They 
are  more  in  harmony  with  the  surrounding 
naturalistic  planting  than  paths  of  artificial 
material,  such  as  gravel,  crushed  stone,  etc. 
However,  the  paths  and  walks  can  be  made 
to  suit  the  convenience  of  the  owner. 

Rose  Beds 

The  rose  beds  should  be  sunk  one  to  two 
inches  below  the  level  of  the  grass  walks. 
The  rose  requires  a  great  deal  of  moisture 


and  by  keeping  the  beds  sunk  below  the  level 
of  the  walks  it  helps  to  preserve  the  moisture 
that  is  in  the  soil.  In  past  years  the  mistaken 
idea  that  rose  beds  should  be  mounded  high 
above  the  surrounding  grounds  has  been  a 
source  of  disappointment  to  the  persons  who 
have  tried  to  grow  roses  this  way.  In  the 
beds  mounded  high  there  is  a  greater  loss  of 
moisture  in  the  soil,  the  roses  do  not  make 
as  good  growth,  nor  do  they  bloom  as  well  as 
when  the  beds  are  slightly  sunken.  But 
roses  do  not  like  "wet  feet" — plant  them  in 
well-drained  soil 

The  rose  bed  should  not  be  too  wide.  The 
bed  which  contains  two  to  four  rows  of  roses 
will  be  of  sufficient  width.  By  picking  roses 
from  both  sides  of  the  flower  bed  all  of  the 
roses  should  be  reached  without  stepping  off 
of  the  turf  walk.  The  beds  should  not  be  so 
wide  that  it  will  be  necessary  to  stand  in  the 
soil  in  order  to  reach  the  roses. 

Location  and  Soil  For  Roses 

Practically  every  home  has  certain  spots 
where  roses  will  thrive.  Roses  will  succeed 
in  any  average  soil,  although  they  respond 
quickly  and  surprisingly  to  applications  of 
rich,  black  soil  and  well  rotted  manure,  or 
other  fertilizer.  If  you  have  a  real  desire  to 
grow  roses,  you  can  do  so  and  without  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  or  expense. 

Location  of  Rose  Garden 

Other  things  being  equal,  the  location  shel- 
tered from  the  North  winds  is  preferable  for 
the  garden,  thus  a  place  located  at  the  South 
or  Eastern  side  of  the  house  will  be  best. 
A  planting  of  shrub  borders  will  furnish 
considerable  protection.  However,  the  ques- 
tion of  protection  from  the  North  is  not  of 
such  great  importance  if  the  individual  rose 
plants  are  given  proper  treatment  before  the 
Winter  season  opens.  A  mounding  up  of 
dirt  and  mulching  will  give  the  necessary 
protection.  For  further  information  on 
Winter  protection,  see  page  27. 

Trees  near  the  garden  are  of  no  great  dis- 
advantage if  they  do  not  shade  the  garden 
more  than  half  of  the  day.  However,  it  is 
important  to  keep  the  tree  roots  separated 
from  the  flower  beds.  The  rose  is  a  heavy 
feeder  and  it  will  not  do  well  if  it  has  to  share 
the  plant  food  with  encroaching  tree  roots. 
Bear  in  mind  that  the  tree  roots  extend  out 
far  from  the  trunk  of  the  tree — at  least  as 
far  out  as  the  spread  of  the  tree.  When  the 
rose  beds  are  made,  all  tree  roots  should  be 
removed. 

The  garden  can  be  surrounded  by  a 
border  planting  of  flowering  shrubs,  which 
should  be  planted  more  or  less  irregularly  in 
outline.  In  front  of  the  shrubs,  hardy  per- 
ennials can  be  planted  and  then  the  formal 
garden  with  its  beds  will  become  enclosed. 


In  the  rose  garden  it  is  very  often  advisable 
to  plant  a  hedge  entirely  surrounding  the 
garden.  The  hardy  Japanese  Rose  (Rosa 
Rugosa)  makes  a  splendid  hedge  and  very 
suitable  for  the  rose  garden,  or  any  of  the 
other  good  hedge  plants  can  be  used. 


A  suggested  outline  of  a  rose  garden — note  the 

width  of  beds  and  walks.  Make  your  bed 

arrangement  very  simple. 


New  Roses  from  Stark  Bro's  Great  Rose  Test  Gardens 

Many  hundreds  of  roses  that  show  great  merit  and  promise  are  thoroughly  tested 

by  our  Rose  Experts.    If  they  meet  with  our  high  standard  of  requirements 

they  are  then   offered  to  Stark  customers. 


Fertilizing  Roses 

Sometimes  the  soils  may  be  too  heavy  (too 
much  clay),  in  which  case,  it  is  often  advis- 
able to  add  a  few  loads  of  lighter  loamy  or 
sandy  soil.  Ground  limestone  or  air-slaked 
lime  will  also  be  beneficial  to  the  soil  which 
tends  to  be  too  heavy.  A  stimulant  for  the 
rose  is  Nitrate  of  Soda,  which  can  be  applied 
in  very  small  quantities  early  in  the  season 
when  there  is  plenty  of  moisture  in  the  ground. 
This  will  result  in  strong  wood  growth.  How- 
ever, it  is  very  concentrated  and  if  it  is  applied 
it  should  be  in  limited  quantities.  A  small 
handful  is  enough  to  each  plant.  Do  not  let 
it  come  in  direct  contact  with  the  plant  or 
it  may  burn  it.  It  should  be  sprinkled  on 
the  soil.  Under  "time  to  plant,"  we  have 
advised  Spring  planting  for  most  roses.  It 
is  a  good  plan,  therefore,  to  start  preparing 
the  rose  beds  the  previous  Fall  or  in  early 
Spring.  The  manure  can  be  placed  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  beds  and  allowed  to  remain  over 
the  Winter.  The  Spring  rains  will  help  dis- 
solve the  plant  food  and  then  later  in  the 
Spring  the  beds  can  be  spaded  up  and  made 
ready  to  receive  the  roses.  Liquid  manures 
are  also  used  with  very  good  results;  they 
can  be  applied  to  the  rose  beds  any  time 
during  the  growing  season,  although  it  will 
be  most  effective  in  May  and  June.  Liquid 
manure  can  be  made  by  suspending  a  burlap 
sack  containing  a  bushel  of  cow  manure  in 
a  barrel  of  water  for  several  days  This 
solution  can  be  applied  direct  to  the  rose 
bed  or  slightly  diluted.  One  to  ^two  quarts 
applied  to  each  plant  about  once  a  week 
would  be  sufficient. 

Soil  and  Drainage 

The  soil  where  the  rose  beds  are  located  should  be  weli 
drained;  roses  will  not  do  well  if  the  ground  is  wet  and  soggy. 
Also,  wet  soil  tends  to  become  acid  and  no  ornamental  or 
rose  will  do  well  in  an  acid  soil.  If  the  spot  you  have  selected 
for  the  rose  garden  is  poorly  drained  and  wet,  it  is  a  simple 
matter  to  remedy.  One  good  method  of  draining  the  flower 
bed  is  to  dig  a  trench  about  2  or  2%  feet  deep  and  put  in  a 
layer  of  broken  stone  (or  other  drainage  material).  This  will 
allow  the  surface  water  to  drain  off  quickly.  Also,  very 
wet  soil  may  be  drained  by  using  a  system  of  tiled  drainage. 
However,  most  soils  require  no  special  drainage. 

Preparing  the  Beds 

The  preparation  of  the  soil  for  the  roses  should  be  at 
least  two  or  three  weeks  ahead  of  planting  time.  If  the  soil 
is  in  fairly  good  condition,  very  little  treatment  will  be 
necessary,  except  that  it  should  be  spaded  deeply, 
broken  up  and  in  fine,  mellow  condition.  When  spading 
the  soil  it  is  always  a  good  idea  to  spade  in  well  rotted 
manure.  Hotted  leaves  are  also  good  for  this  purpose.  Of 
commercial  fertilizers,  probably  the  best  is  ground  bone, 
but  in  applying  all  fertilizers  and  manures,  keep  in  mind 
that  the  fertilizer  should  be  spaded  in  deep  and  this  work 
should  be  as  far  ahead  of  planting  as  possible  so  that  fertilizer 
and  manure  will  have  time  to  dissolve.  Later  on,  after  the 
roses  are  planted,  the  top  or  surface  applications  of  manure 
:ind  fertilizer  can  be  made.  In  using  manure  in  the  flower 
beds,  bear  in  mind  that  the  best  kinds  are  from  the  cow 
or  horse  stable.  When  spading  up  the  ground  the  manure 
or  other  fertilizer  can  be  scattered  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground  and  then  spaded  in.  Aim  to  spade  the  ground  deeply 
and  to  get  the  loose  top  soil  underneath  the  lower  soil.  The- 


[26] 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


How  to  Plant — Pruning — Winter  Protection 

.Vo.  /  shows  rose  bush  planted  too  deep.     No.  2  is  planted  just  right.      No.  3  illustrates  proper 

pruning  immediately  after  planting.       No.  4  shows  dirt  mounded  up  the  following 

Fall  for  protection  against  Winter  injury. 


roots  of  the  roses  will  go  down  to  considerable 
depth,  therefore  the  top  rich  soil  and  manure 
should  be  at  some  depth  under  the  surface  of 
the  ground. 

Laying  Out  the  Beds 

Of  course  it  ia  understood  that  the 
roses  should  be  kept  in  beds  by  themselves. 
Do  not  try  to  mix  roses  and  other  flowering 
plants  in  the  same  flower  bed.  The  beds  can 
be  laid  out  in  any  manner  desired,  but  they 
should  not  be  too  complicated.  An  arrange- 
ment of  simple  rectangular  beds,  possibly  a 
circular  bed  will  give  most  pleasing  effects. 
See  diagram  on  page  26.  Do  not  make  the 
beds  in  fancy  scrolls,  as  beds  of  this  kind  are 
not  only  unsatisfactory,  but  they  are  hard  to 
maintain  in  neat  condition. 

Winter  Protection 

Many  of  the  roses,  especially  the  Hybrid 
Perpetual  class  are  hardy  enough  to  go 
through  the  Winter  without  any  protection 
whatever;  however,  it  is  very  little  trouble  to 
furnish  a  moderate  protection  and  it  is 
always  safest  to  do  this.  Some  of  the  more 
tender  sorts  of  the  Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  class 
are  not  so  hardy  and  should  by  all  means  be 
protected.  After  a  frost  or  two  has  occured 
in  the  Fall  to  ripen  up  the  tops  of  the 
rose  bushes,  the  soil  should  be  mounded  up 
and  packed  in  about  the  base  of  the  bush  to 
a  height  of  6  or  8  inches.  In  order  to  make 
it  easier  to  apply  the  mulch,  the  rose  bushes 
can  be  headed  back  to  within  one  foot  of  the 
ground.  See  diagram  on  this  page.  Assum- 
ing that  the  dirt  had  been  mounded  up  about 
the  base  of  the  bush,  the  next  step  is  to  apply 
a  coating  of  rough  manure  on  the  surface  of 
the  beds.  Then  on  top  of  this,  a  layer  of 
dead  leaves  can  be  placed,  or  in  case  it  is  not 
convenient  to  secure  dead  leaves,  straw  or 
corn  fodder  can  be  used  for  this  purpose. 
Weight  the  leaves  or  straw  down  so  it  will 
not  blow  away. 

IMPORTANT.  Do  not  make  the  covering 
or  mulch  too  thick  and  heavy  or  it  will 
smother  out  and  kill  the  roses.  When  the 
Spring  begins  to  open  up,  the  mulch  can  be 
removed  gradually  from  day  to  day,  then  the 
tops  headed  in  closer,  as  described  in  the 
•paragraph  on  pruning.  It  is  not  advisable 
to  attempt  to  protect  the  climbing  roses 
further  than  mounding  up  the  earth  about 
10  or  12  inches  about  the  base  of  the  plant. 
Practically  all  of  the  climbing  roses  are  hardy 
enough  to  take  care  of  themselves  without 
protection. 

Time  to  Plant  Roses 

As  a  general  rule.,  roses  should  be  planted 
in  the  Spring.  This  applies  to  the  Central- 
West  and  the  Northern  states.  In  the  South, 
Fall  planting  is  to  be  preferred,  also  there  are 
many  of  the  hardier  climbers,  Rugosa  type, 
and  some  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  which 
can  be  planted  very  successfully  in  the  Fall, 
even  in  the  colder  climates.  However,  as  a 
general  rule,  it  is  safest  to  plant  in  the  early 
Spring.  Fall  planting  of  hardy  shrubs  and 
most  shade  trees  gives  splendid  results. 

Receiving  the  Plants 

When  stock  is  received  from  the  nursery, 
it  should  be  unpacked  and  all  packing  material 
shaken  out  from  the  roots,  but  be  sure  that 
your  beds  are  ready  to  receive  the  plant 
before  you  unpack.  Do  not  expose  the  roots 
of  the  plants  to  sun,  wind  or  frost.  While 
you  are  planting  one  bush,  keep  the  roots  of 


the  other  plants  covered  up  with  a  wet  sack 
or  cloth.  Sometimes  when  the  plants  are 
delayed  in  transit,  they  may  become  some- 
what dried  and  shrivelled,  in  which  case  the 
roots  can  be  dipped  in  thin  mud  just  before 
planting,  and  in  extreme  cases  it  may  be 
advisable  to  bury  the  plants  in  moist  earth 
for  two  or  three  days  before  planting.  This 
will  give  them  an  opportunity  to  become 
plump  before  being  set  out. 

Pruning  the  Roots 

Give  each  plant  a  careful  pruning  with  a 
sharp  knife,  cutting  off  all  broken  or  bruised 
roots.  The  holes  to  receive  the  plants  should 
be  dug  large  and  deep  so  that  the  roots  can 
be  spread  out.  When  planting,  work  the 
soil  in  well  around  the  roots  and  spread  the 
roots  out  so  that  they  will  be  in  their  natural 
position.  Do  not  plant  the  rose  bush  too 
deep  nor  too  shallow.  By  examining  the 
plant  carefully,  you  will  easily  recognize  the 
depth  at  which  the  plant  stood  in  the  nursery 
row,  as  all  of  that  portion  of  the  plant  which 
was  above  the  ground  in  the  nursery  will  be 
more  or  less  green,  while  the  portion  that  was 
underground  will  be  brownish  or  dirt  colored. 
The  following  is  a  safe  rule:  Plant  the  rose 
bush  one  to  two  inches  deeper  than  it  stood 
in  the  nursery.  See  diagram  on  this  page. 

Distance  of  Planting 

The  distance  of  planting  depends  on  the 
type  of  rose.  The  strong  Hybrid  Perpetual 
roses  should  be  planted  about  2)^  or  3  feet 
apart.  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas  can  be  planted 
about  2  feet  apart  while  the  Dwarf  Polyantha, 
such  as  Baby  Rambler,  Clothilde  Soupert, 
Jessie,  etc.,  can  be  planted  as  close  as  a  foot 
to  18  inches  apart.  Climbing  roses  can  be 
planted  as  close  as  is  required  to  cover  the 
desired  space. 

Pruning  the  Tops 

Immediately  after  planting 
the  roses,  use  a  sharp  knife 
to  prune  back  the  tops.  As 
the  plant  comes  from  the 
nursery,  the  top  will  be  any- 
where from  1  to  2^  feet 


in  height.  Most  of  this  top  should  be  cut  off 
immediately  after  planting,  each  cane  being 
headed  in  so  that  there  are  only  three  or 
four  buds  left  on  the  cane.  See  diagram, 
this  page.  In  cutting  back,  prune  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  above  a  bud  which  points 
out  from  the  center  of  the  bush.  This  will 
tend  to  make  the  rose  bush  spreading  instead 
of  tall  and  spindly.  If  there  are  too  many 
canes  on  the  bush  some  of  them  should  bo 
cut  out  entirely,  always  removing  the  weaker 
branches.  For  further  details,  see  paragraph 
on  Pruning  on  following  page. 

After  the  rose  is  planted  it  is  advisable  to 
mound  the  dirt  up  to  a  height  of  3  or  4  inches 
about  the  canes.  This  moist  earth  will  keep 
the  canes  plump  until  they  get  started  to 
growing.  Later  in  the  Spring,  after  they 
start  growing,  the  mound  about  the  plant 
can  be  leveled  down. 

After  the  roses  have  been  set  out,  they 
should  be  frequently  cultivated  or  hoed,  at 
least  once  or  twice  a  week.  Whenever  it 
rains  the  surface  soil  will  pack  down  and  when 
it  dries  will  be  hard,  therefore,  cultivate  soon 
after  each  rain.  This  is  important,  as  fre- 
quent cultivation  maintains  a  dust  mulch, 
which  prevents  the  evaporation  of  the  mois- 
ture in  the  soil. 

Planting 

Pack  the  soil  in  tight  around  the  roots; 
leave  no  air  pockets.  A  lack  of  firming  the 
soil  is  often  responsible  for  the  failure  of  rose 
bushes  to  live.  After  the  hole  has  been  half 
filled  with  earth,  pour  in  one  or  two  buckets 
of  water  and  allow  it  to  settle.  Then  fill  up 
the  rest  of  the  hole  with  dirt.  The  soil  may 
be  moist  enough  not  to  require  any  water, 
but  some  water  will  do  no  harm  and  may  be 
a  great  help  in  assisting  the  plant  to  get  es- 
tablished quickly.  The  top  two  or  three 
inches  of  the  soil  should  not  be  tramped, 
but  should  be  put  in  loose. 

Rose  Enemies 

As  is  the  case  of  all  other  growing  plants, 
the  rose  has  certain  enemies;  however,  by 
careful  watching  and  a  little  attention,  the 
rose  enemies  can  be  kept  well  under  control, 
and  will  give  very  little  trouble. 

Mildew  on  Rose  Foliage 

In  wet  seasons  a  powdery  white  mildew  may 
get  on  foliage  and  young  buds.  This  is  con- 
trolled by  spraying  or  sprinkling  with  a 
solution  of  Potassium  Sulphide,  which  can  be 
procured  from  your  local  drug  store.  Use 
one  ounce  of  Potassium  Sulphide  to  two 
gallons  of  water.  The  solution  should  be 
applied  when  the  first  signs  of  mildew  appear 
and  then  applied  at  intervals  of  a  week  or 
ten  days  until  it  is  controlled. 

Another  material  that  will  control  the  mil- 


Photoftraph,  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  Y 

net  for  everybody — Madame  Caroline  Testout,  the  official  variety 
nf  The  Rose  Festival  of  Portland,  Oregon.    Succeeds  everywhere. 


Dorothy  Perkins 

Makes    a    charming    hedge 

when  trained  on  a  fr.ncv 
dew  is  Bordeaux  Mixture. 
Also  the  simple  method  of 
dusting  flowers  of  sulphur 
upon  the  foliage  is  effective 
in  preventing  mildew.  This 
should  be  applied  early  in 
the  morning  when  the  dew 
will  assist  in  holding  it  on 
the  foliage. 

Leaf-Eating   Insects 

Sometimes  certain  in- 
sects eat  the  foliage  of  the 
rose.  The  Rose  Slug,  which 
is  a  slimy  snail-like  insect, 
eats  the  green  out  of  the 


[27] 


Secrets       of       Ornamental       Planting 


Kaiser  in 
\.ufiusta  Victoria 


Gruxx  an  Te-plitz 


Clio 


Eugene  Fursl 


Clolilde  Son  pert 


leaves,  leaving  the  veined  net-work  or  leaf- 
skeleton.  The  Rose  Beetle  also  eats  the 
foliage.  These  can  be  controlled  by  spraying 
with  Arsenate  of  Lead  at  the  rate  of  one 
pound  of  Arsenate  of  Lead  to  12  gallons  of 
water.  This  should  be  applied  as  soon  as 
the  work  of  the  insect  is  noted.  Powdered 
White  Hellebore  dusted  on  the  foliage  will 
also  control  the  Rose  Slug.  Be  sure  to  get 
fresh  Hellebore  from  your  drug  store.  When 
it  turns  yellow,  it  loses  strength.  Also,  the 
Rose  Beetle  can  be  controlled  simply  by 
hand  picking  and  dropping  in  a  pan  of  Kero- 
sene, which  will  immediately  kill  the  insects. 
Plant  Lice  or  Aphis  sometimes  attack 
tender  shoots  of  the  rose,  but  they  are  easy 
to  control  by  dipping  the  shoot  in  a  solution 
of  NICOTINE  or  ordinary  soap  (one  pound 
of  soap  to  6  gallons  of  water).  These  solu- 
tions can  also  be  sprayed  on  the  plants  if 
desired. 

A  Record  of  the  Rose  Garden 

There  are  so  many  valuable  and  interesting 
new  varieties  of  roses  that  are  being  originated 
every  year  that  it  will  be  desirable  to  keep  a 
record  of  all  varieties  which  are  planted  in 
each  garden.  A  small  diagram  of  each  bed 
can  be  made  and  in  addition,  the  roses  may 
be  labeled  with  some  sort  of  metal  label 
which  will  not  be  affected  by  the  weather. 

After-Care  of  Roses 

After  the  rose  bushes  are  planted,  they 
will  not  require  much  attention  with  the 
exception  of  frequent  cultivation  and  in  dry 
seasons,  water  will  be  very  beneficial.  If 
the  rose  bushes  tend  to  grow  too  upright,  the 
terminal  bud  can  be  pinched  back  and  this 
will  make  the  canes  branch  out. 


Pruning  Roses 

On  page  2V  we  have  already  explained  the 
method  of  pruning  both  the  roots  and  tops 
at  planting  time. 

The  following  Fall  after  planting  the  tops 
can  be  cut  back  to  within  a  foot  of  the  ground 
to  make  it  more  convenient  for  adding  the 
mulch  as  a  winter  protection. 

Pruning  is  very  important  for  success  in 
rose  growing.  As  a  general  rule,  the  rose 
bush  should  be  pruned  heavily  (of  course  the 
climbing  roses  and  ramblers  wiil  require  very 
little  if  any  pruning,  except  cutting  out  the 
dead  wood  and  weaker  branches — climbers 
take  care  of  themselves).  After  the  first 
season's  growth  the  plant  should  be  pruned 
the  following  Spring.  Head  it  back  to  within 
8  or  10  inches  of  the  ground,  cutting  out  the 
weak  canes  and  leaving  only  the  stronger 
canes  to  develop.  Bear  in  mind  that  severe 
pruning  tends  to  make  stronger  growth. 
Therefore,  some  of  the  weaker  growing  kinds 
require  the  most  severe  pruning.  Also,  severe 
pruning  tends  to  make  the  flowers  larger. 
As  we  have  already  explained,  the  canes 
should  be  cut  back  to  within  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  from  a  bud  that  points  outward  from 
the  middle  of  the  bush.  This  makes  the 
branches  spread. 

Of  course,  all  dead  wood  should  be  removed. 
The  number  of  canes  that  should  be  left  should 
range  from  4  to  8.  Of  course,  wherever  the 
tops  had  been  injured  by  winter  weather, 
they  should  be  cut  back  to  good,  live  wood. 
Bear  in  mind  the  general  rule  that  very 
vigorous  growing  kinds  will  not  require  as 
severe  pruning  as  the  weak  growers;  Rosa 
Rugosa  (Japanese  Rose)  requires  very  little 
pruning.  It  is  considered  more  from  its 
value  as  a  shrub  rather  than  flowers. 


Hardy  Garden  Roses 


Roses— The  Several  Classes 

(Climbing  Roses — see  page  30.) 
With  the  great  advance  in  improved  vari- 
eties of  roses  we  now  have  roses  which  bloom 
from  early  Spring  to  Fall  of  every  shade  and 
color  imaginable  and  with  delightful  fragrance 
and  yet  these  wonderful  new  roses  are  thrifty 
growers  and  hardy  in  most  severe  climates. 
When  you  plant  a  rose  garden,  you  have  a 
relatively  permanent  planting — bushes  which 
will  grow  stronger  year  after  year  and  will 
fill  the  home  with  beautiful  fragrant  roses 
throughout  the  Spring  and  Summer  and  until 
late  Fall.  Because  of  its  permanency,  a  rose 
garden  is  more  desirable  than  a  flower  garden 
made  up  entirely  of  plants  which  die  out  in 
the  winter  and  require  replacing  the  next 
Spring  with  additional  trouble  and  expense. 
There  are  thousands  of  roses,  but  after 
thorough  testing,  our  Rose  Experts  have 
selected  the  following  list  as  the  best.  Follow- 
ing the  name  of  each  variety  is  given  the 
initials,  which  indicate  the  class  to  which  it  be- 
longs. Note  following  abbreviations  for  rose 
classes:  H  p.— Hybrid  Perpetual. 

H.  R. — Hybrid  Rugosa. 
R. — Rugosa  or  Japanese. 

H.  T.— Hybrid  Tea. 

H.  C. — Hardy  Climber. 
T.— Tea. 

Poly. — Polyantha  or  Baby  Ramblers 

Moss — Moss. 


ANNA  DE  DIESBACH  (  H.  P.)  An  old  and 
well-known  variety  of  grandmother's  garden. 
Flowers  large,  full  and  of  bright  pink. 
BABY  RAMBLER  (Poly.)  (Mad.  Norbert 
Levavasseur.)  A  dwarf  bushy  plant  with  large, 
compact  clusters  of  bright  crimson  flowers, 
borne  in  profusion.  A  hardy",  vigorous,  con- 
tinuous bloomer.  Fine  for  edging  around 
taller  growing  varieties.  It  is  also  used  as  a 
pot  plant  for  indoor  culture  and  hedges. 
BURBANK  (China).  Free  blooming  with 
cherry-rose  colored  flowers.  A  good  bedder. 
CATHERINE  ZEIMET  (Poly.)  Flowers 
pure  white  in  immense  clusters.  Fragrant. 
All  the  characteristics  of  the  Baby  Rambler 
type.  Good  for  edging. 

CLIO  (  H.  P.)  A  vigorous  grower.  Flowers 
large,  globular, "flesh  color  shaded  to  pink  in 
center.  A  free  bloomer.  Very  good  as  a 
garden  variety. 

CLOTHILDE  SOUPERT  (Poly.)  One  of 
the  very  best  bedders.  A  familiar  ivorv-white 


* 


Maman 
Cachet 


Madame  Plantier 


[28] 


General  Jaqueminot  Baby  Rambler 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 

iniiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiNiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin^ 


variety  shaded  pink  towards  the  center. 
Excellent  for  borders.  Too  much  can  hardly 
be  said  of  blossoming  qualities  of  this  well- 
known  dwarf.  Truly  a  magnificient  rose. 
CONRAD  F.  MEYER  ( H.  R.)  Beautiful 
large  flowers  of  a  clear  silvery  rose  color. 
Very  vigorous,  hardy  and  fragrant.  A  hybrid 
rugosa.  Often  used  for  hedge.  Ever-blooming. 
ERNA  TESCHENDORF  (Poly.)  A  dwarf 
free  flowering  variety.  Red  flowers  slightly 
larger  and  darker  than. Baby  Rambler.  Very 
pleasing  results  can  be  obtained  by  placing 
a  border  of  this  variety  around  the  taller 
growing  sorts.  Dwarf  rose  hedges  are  popular. 
EUGENE  FURST.  (H.  P.)  A  large  full  rose 
of  a  deep  red  color.  Its  distinct  characters 
make  this  a  most  valuable  rose  for  the  garden 
It  should  be  included  in  every  collection. 
GEN.  JACQUEMINOT  ( H .  P.)  An  old 
favorite.  A  large  full  flower  of  crimson- 
scarlet  color.  A  fine  garden  variety.  It 
does  well  with  little  care  and  succeeds  under 
various  conditions. 

GLOIRE  LYONNAISE  ( H.  P.)  A  free 
blooming,  almost  thornless  hybrid  of  pale 
lemon  color.  Nearest  yellow  of  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals.  A  good  bedding  or  garden  variety 
GEN.  McARTHUR  ( H.  T.)  A  splendid 
garden  rose  of  fine  shape.  Brilliant  crimson 
scarlet  color.  A  good  bedding  sort. 
GRUSS  an  TEPLITZ  (China) .  An  excellent 
bedding  variety  with  clusters  of  semi-double 
fragrant  flowers  of  a  bright  red  color  which 
later  change  to  a  velvety-crimson.  It  is  sel- 
dom without  flowers  —  a  flashing  red  from 
Spring  till  Fall. 

HELEN  GOULD  ( H.  T.)  A  free  grower 
with  bright  red  flowers.  Good  bloomer.  A 
fine  garden  variety  and  should  be  planted 
extensively  where  a  variety  of  free  flowering 
nature  is  the  prime  consideration. 
HERMOSA  (China).  A  profusion  of  bright 
pink,  very  double,  fragrant  flowers  borne  in 
clusters  throughout  the  season.  A  well- 
known  variety  used  extensively  as  a  bedder. 
HUGH  DICKSON  (  H.  P.)  Vigorous  grow- 
ing, perpetual  bloomer.  Free  flowering  and 
fragrant.  Color  brilliant  crimson.  Large 
size  and  good  form.  An  excellent  variety. 
J.  B.  CLARK  (H.  P.)  A  vigorous  grower 
producing  large  beautiful  flowers  of  a  deep 
scarlet  color  shaded  blackish-crimson. 
JESSIE  (Poly.)  A  new  Baby  Rambler. 
Good  for  edging  or  pot  culture.  Large  clus- 
ter of  bright  crimson  flowers.  Shows  to 
best  advantage  when  planted  as  a  border. 
JONKHEER  J.  L.  MOCK  (H.  T.)  Flow- 
ers large,  full,  fragrant,  borne  on  stout,  erect 
stems.  Color  beautiful  soft  pink  inside  and 
carmine  outside.  A  good  cut-flower  variety. 
It  is  a  vigorous  grower  and  requires  only  a 
slight  mulching  during  the  winter  months. 
KAISERIN  A.  VICTORIA  (H.  T.)  A  dis- 
tinct variety  with  white  flowers  shaded  lemon. 
Free  bloomer,  full  and  fragrant.  Vigorous. 


Jonkeer 
J.  L.  Mock 


KILLARNEY  ( H.  T.)  Large  buds  and 
flowers  of  a  deep  sea  shell  pink  color.  Fine 
for  forcing  and  cut-flowers.  A  free  bloomer. 
Deserves  a  prominent  place  in  every  garden. 
KILLARNEY  WHITE  ( H .  T.)  A  grand 
white  forcing  rose.  Sport  from  Killarney  but 
more  double.  Fine  in  bud  or  flower.  Planted 
extensively  for  cut  flowers  in  the  garden  and 
forced  for  the  commercial  trade. 
LA  FRANCE  (H.  T.)  A  large,  full  flower 
of  a  silvery  pink  color  and  fragrant.  A  free 
bloomer  from  Spring  until  frost. 
LADY  ASHTON  ( H.  T.)  Free  flowering, 
large,  and  of  fine  form.  Long  pointed  buds. 
Soft,  clear  pink  color. 

MADAME  CAROLINE  TESTOUT  ( H.  T.) 
Of  sturdy  habit  and  free  flowering.  Flowers 
silvery  rose  with  deeper  center.  One  of  the 
best  Hybrid  Teas. 

MADAME  JULES  GROLEZ  ( H .  T.)  Free 
flowering  and  attractive.  Well  formed  flowers 
of  a  deep  satiny  pink  color.  A  good  bedder. 
MADAME  PLANTIER  (  H.  P.)  Pure  white 
flowers  of  medium  size  produced  abundantly 
early  in  the  season.  Extremely  hardy.  Valu- 
able Decoration  Day  variety.  Often  known 
as  the  Cemetery  Rose  and  as  it  requires 
little  care  is  a  very  suitable  variety  for  this 
sort  of  planting. 

MAGNA  CHARTA  ( H.  P.)  Extra  large, 
full  flowers  of  a  bright  rosy  pink  color. 
Double,  good  form  and  fragrant.  A  hardy 
strong  grower  adapted  to  garden  planting. 
MAMAN  COCHET  (T.)  A  most  valuable, 
beautiful  rose.  One  of  the  best  grown.  Large 
and  full.  Long  pointed  buds.  Color  rich 
coral-pink.  A  good  cut  flower  and  bedding 
variety.  Delightfully  fragant,  blooms  all 
summer. 

MRS.  AARON  WARD.      (  H.  T.)     Coppery- 
orange  color.     Very  beautiful.     Pinkish-fawn 
when  full  open.     Fine  for  forcing  and  used 
extensively  by  commercial  florists. 
MARSHALL  P.  WILDER.      (  H.  P.)  Large, 
full,    well-formed.     Deep   rich   red,    fragrant. 
MRS.    B.    R.    CANT    (T.)     Sweet    scented 
flowers  of  deep  rose  color.     Free  flowering  and 
attractive  in  autumn.     Good  garden  variety. 
Called  Red  Maman  Cochet 
MRS.  JOHN  LAING  ( H .  P.)     A  profusion 
of  large  bright  pink  flowers.     Perfectly  hardy. 
Full  and  double.     An  excellent  variety. 
NOVA    ZEMBLA    ( H.    R.)     Large    double 
white    flowers    with    a    pleasing    pink    blush. 
A  sport  of  C.  F.  Meyers.     Fine  bedder. 
ORLEANS  (Poly.)     A  geranium-red  variety 
of  the  Baby  Rambler  type.    Free  bloomer  and 
splendid  keeping  qualities.  A  favorite. 
PAUL  NEYRON  (  H.  P.)     Immense  flowers 
of  a  deep  rose  color.     The  large  well-formed 
buds  on  the  stout  stems  are  very  desirable 
for  cutting.     Stems  nearly  thornless. 
PERSIAN  YELLOW  (Austrian.)    A  familiar 
rose  of    grandmother's    garden.     Clusters  of 
double  yellow  flowers  in  early  spring. 
PINK  MOSS  (M.)     An  excellent  pink  with 
bsautiful   moss  covered  buds   and   branches. 
Blooms  retain  their  beauty  quite  a  long  while. 
PRESIDENT  TAFT   ( H.   T.)     A  fine  pink 
rose.     Vigorous,  good  size  and  form;  fragrant. 
PRINCE   C     DE.    ROHAN   ( H.    P.)     Full, 
dark,  veivety  crimson  maroon  variety. 
RADIANCE  (  H.T.)  A  constant  bloomer  with 
brilliant   rosy   carmine   flowers.      Large   size, 


Radiance 


Killarney 


Wm.  R  Smith 


[29] 


Stark  Bro's — Landscape  Architects  and  Ornamental  Nurserymen — Louisiana,  Mo. 


:    Ill  IB  Nil  :,;:.: Hill     I  II  :t     :  Illlllllll    Illll     111 


i:       ••..:'        a  '         '•  :  ' 


full  and  fragrant.  An  excellent  rose.  It  has 
the  qualifications  of  a  cut-flower,  or  bedder. 
RED  MOSS  (M.)  A  beautiful  old-time  red 
rose  with  mossy  buds  and  stem.  A  favorite  in 
the  informal  garden. 

RHEA  REID  ( H.  T.)  A  new  red  forcing 
rose,  also  a  good  garden  variety.  Large 
double  rich  red  flowers  of  exceptional  beauty. 
ROSA  RUGOSA  ALBA  (R.),  White  Japan- 
ese Rose.  A  white  form  of  Rosa  Rugosa. 
ROSA  RUGOSA  (R.)  A  beautiful  single  red 
rose  from  Japan. 
Foliage  dark  green 
and  crumpled.  Ex- 
tensively used  as 
shrubbery. 
SIR  THOMAS 
LIPTON.  (H.  R.} 
Best  pure  white 


Baltimore  Belle — Asplen- 

iliil  climber  for  arches, 

walls  and  porches. 


Thousand  Beauties 
( 1'ausendschoen) — a 
new  climber  that  has 
created  a  sensation. 


rugosa  rose.  Beau- 
tiful foliage,  conti- 
nual bloomer  and 
vigorous.  Double. 
SNOW  QUEEN 
(  H.  P.  )  Often 
called  White  Amer- 
ican Beauty.  An 

excellent  pure  white  rose,  probably  the  very 
best  white.  Very  hardy  and  vigorous.  A 
profusion  of  pure  white  flowers  of  large  size. 
SUNBURST  (H.T.)  an  excellent  forcer.  Long 
pointed  buds  of  coppery-orange  color  chang- 
ing to  golden  yellow  when  full. 
ULRICH  BRUNNER  ( H.  P.)  A  fine 
cherry-red  rose  of  immense  size.  A  seedling 
of  Paul  Neyron.  Of  fine  form  and  fragrant. 
The  flowers  are  supported  on  long  stiff  stems 
which  makes  this  a  desirable  cut-flower. 
WHITE  COCHET(T.)  A  large  fragrant  hardy 
rose  of  pure  white  color  with  outer  petals 
tipped  pink  in  autumn. 

WM.  R.  SMITH  (T.)  Rose  pink  flowers  with 
beautiful  flesh  tints.  A  vigorous  grower, 
large  and  full.  A  good  bedder.  Deserves  a 
place  in  every  garden.  None  more  beautiful. 

Tree  or  Standard  Roses 

These  are  grafted  on  hardy  rose  stalks 
about  four  or  five  feet  from  the  ground.  We 
offer  three  varieties:  Snow  Queen  (white), 
Gruss  an  Teplitz  (red),  3.  J.  L.  Mock  (pink). 


Climbiny 

/I  merican 

Beauty 


Hardy  Climbing  Roses 

Because  of  graceful  growth,  profusion  of 
beautiful  blossoms,  vigor  and  extreme  hardi- 
ness, the  popularity  of  the  hardy  climbers  is 
greater  than  ever  before.  (We  list  only  the 
hardy  varieties.)  They  present  a  magnificent 
sight  with  their  billowy  masses  of  roses  when 
trained  on  porches,  arbors,  arches  or  any 
other  support.  Even  the  unattractive  arti- 
ficial fence  can  be  changed  into  a  graceful 
rose  hedge  by  planting  some  of  the  many 
beautiful  climbers. 

AMERICAN  PILLAR  (  H.  C.)  A  popular 
large  single  variety.  Color  deep  pink  with 
yellow  stamens  in  the  center.  Very  floriferous, 
vigorous  and  hardy.  The  flowers  are  some 
times  three  or  four  inches  across.  They  last 
for  a  long  while,  and  are  followed  by 
brilliant  red  berries. 

BALTIMORE  BELLE  ( H.  C.)  This  is  a 
well-known  old  favorite.  The  flowers  are 
white  tinted  with  pink.  It  is  a  variety  that 
withstands  winter  well  and  is  an  excellent 
climber.  Succeeds  without  care. 
CHRISTINE  WRIGHT  ( H .  C.)  A  new 
rose  of  lasting  quality.  Bright  clear  pink  and 
double. 

CRIMSON  RAMBLER  ( H.  C.)  A  variety 
noted  for  it  profuse  clusters  of  bright  crimson, 
double  flowers.  A  vigorous  growing  climber, 
the  shoots  often  growing  to  8  feet  in  height 
during  one  season.  It  is  well  known  and  will 
survive  in  a  variety  of  conditions. 

CLIMBING    BABY    RAMBLER    ( H.    C.) 

Miss  Messman.  A  climbing,  everbloomLng 
form  of  the  Baby  Rambler  type.  The  same 
color,  vigorous,  and  deserving  of  a  place  on 
every  porch,  trellis  or  arch. 
CLIMBING  AMERICAN  BEAUTY  (  H.  C.) 
A  hybrid  of  American  Beauty  with  all  its 
good  qualities.  Flowers  large,  deep  pink  and 
fragrant.  Vigorous  and  very  profuse  bloomer. 
Excellent  for  porch,  pergola,  etc. 
DOROTHY  PERKINS  (H.  C.)  Immense 
clusters  of  beautiful  double  pink,  fragrant 
flowers.  Perfectly  hardy  and  a  vigorous 
grower.  Can  be  used  to  advantage  as  a 
porch  climber  or  on  the  trellis.  Heavy  growth 
of  foliage  and  many  thousands  of  perfectly 
formed  flowers. 

DR.  W.  VAN  FLEET  ( H.  C.)  A  very  rapid 
growing  climber.  Deep  flesh  color.  Flowers 
full  and  double  on  long  stems.  Pointed  buds. 

EVER-BLOOMING  CRIMSON  RAM- 
BLER (H.  C.)  A  magnificent  rose.  Similar 
in  every  respect  to  Crimson  Rambler,  but 
having  an  extended  blossoming  season. 
EXCELSA  (H.  C.)  Red  Dorothy  Perkins. 
An  excellent  brilliant-crimson  climber.  Foli- 
age glossy.  Best  of  the  crimson  ramblers. 
HIAWATHA  (H.  C.)  Large  clusters  of 
single  brilliant  scarlet  flowers  with  yellow 
stamens  in  the  center. 

LADY  GAY  ( H.  C.)  A  vigorous,  very 
floriferous  variety  with  rose-pink  flowers. 
QUEEN  OF  PRAIRIE  ( H.  C.)  An  old 
familiar  standby;  red  climbing  rose.  Ex- 
tremely hardy.  Does  well  on  arbor,  porch  or 
trellis  and  withstands  severe  conditions. 
RUBIN  (H.  C.)  A  hardy  climber  some- 
what resembling  Crimson  Rambler,  but  with 
larger,  more  double  and  deeper  colored  flowers. 
THOUSAND  BEAUTIES 
(H.  C.),  Tausendschoen.  A 
rapid  growing  climber.  Flow- 
ers pink  deepening  to  rosy 
carmine,  in  clusters.  Nearly 
thornless. 

TRIER    (  H.  C.  )     A  most 
beautiful  rambler  with  large 
clusters    of     creamy    white 
semi-double    flowers.        The 
open    center    is    filled     with 
numerous  bright  yellow  an- 
thers which  give  to 
the  rose  a  distinct 
vellow   color    from 
a  distance.     A  fav- 
orite       surpassing 
Yellow  Rambler  of 
which  it  is  a  seed- 
ing. 

WHITE  DORO- 
THY PERKINS 
(H.C.)  A  white 
flowering  sport  of 
the  well  -  known 
DorothyPerkins. 


Dorothy  Perkins 


Excelsa 


Climbing  Baby 
Rambler 


Trier 


Stark  Bro's  New  Free  Landscaping  Service 
— and  Free  Planting  Plans 

When  you  plant  a  tree  or  shrub  be  sure  that  it  is  placed  just  where 
it  belongs,  and  that  it  will  produce  the  proper  landscape  effect.  You 
can  make  your  grounds  beautiful  and  attractive — no  matter  what 
the  size  —  if  the  proper  shrubs,  trees  and  plants  are  selected  and 
arranged  according  to  a  correctly  prepared  plan. 

Stark  Bro's  Landscape  Architects 
Know  Your  Requirements 

Each  one  of  our  trained  Landscape  Architects  knows,  when  he  is 
told  the  size  of  your  grounds,  the  location  of  your  house,  out  build- 
ings, walks,  etc.,  just  what  is  required  to  make  the  house  and  sur- 
roundings show  to  best  advantage.  He  prepares  plans  every  day  for 
grounds  of  all  sizes  and  shapes.  That  is  his  business,  his  calling,  and 
naturally  his  judgment,  his  advice,  would  be  valuable  to  you.  Why 
not  take  advantage  of  this  new  free  offer  of  service  and  free  plans? 

Beautify  Your  Home  Grounds 
at  Small  Expense 

Stark  Bro's  have  perfected  a  plan  to  give  to  every  man  and  woman, 
who  is  interested  in  beautifying  the  home,  the  free  service  of  one 
of  our  Landscape  Architects,  and  to  co-operate  with  you  in  improv- 
ing your  grounds.  Give. us  your  ideas  and  desires,  and  tell  us  just 
what  kind  of  trees  and  shrubs  you  prefer.  We  will  take  your  sug- 
gestions and  adapt  them  to  the  design  in  accordance  with  the  best 
principles  of  landscape  gardening.  All  we  ask  you  to  do  is  to  send 
us  a  rough  sketch  of  your  grounds,  showing  the  size  of  your  lot 
—  no  matter  if  it  is  only  30  feet  wide.  Give  the  location  of  out 
buildings,  fences,  trees,  walks,  etc.  Our  Landscape  Man  will  study 

it  carefully,  prepare  a  blue  print 
planting  plan  embodying  up-to- 
the-minute  ideas  in  Landscape 
Architecture,  showing  just  what 
shrubs,  vines,  trees  and  plants  to 
use  and  where  to  plant  them. 


Lafayette,  Ga..  Oct.  25th.  1915. 
MESSRS.  STARK   BRO'S. 
Louisiana,  Mo. 

Dear  Sirs:  Enclosed  you  will  find  a  very  rude 
'Sketch  outline — it  at  least  gives  the  proportion — of 

-  recently  completed  bungalow,  and  of  the  lawn 
•surrounding  it.  We  wish  to  take  advantage  of 
your  very  kind  and  generous  offer  to  draw  free 
plans  for  the  lawn.  While  ours  is  small  and  very 
modest,  we  are  all  the  more  anxious  it  should  be 
•treated  in  just  the  right  way.  The  lot  is  perfectly 
bare  of  shade  trees,  shrubs  or  flowers.  In  fact, 

e  arc-  just  preparing  to  have  it  sown  to  grass  seed. 

We  have  quite  a  large  lot  in  the  rear,  which  we 

e  planning  to  devote  to  flower  and  kitchen 
gardens,  a  vineyard,  small  fruits,  nuts,  etc. 

We  have  received  orders  from  you,  and  have 
been  very  much  pleased.  Any  suggestions  you 

as    make  will  be  gladly  received. 

Very  truly, 
(Signed)   MRS.  A.  S.  SPARKS. 

P.  S. — Please  mail  to  my  new  address  your  new 
free  book,  "Secrets  of  Ornamental  Planting." 


Ames,  Iowa,  April  1,  1915. 
STARK    BRO'S, 

Louisiana,  Mo 

Gentlemen:  Some  time  ago  I  received  from  you 
booklet  entitled  "Landscaping  Simplified."  I 
ave  just  been  able  to  go  through  it  and  I  am  de- 
jhtod  with  the  good  sound  principles  of  land- 
cape  design  and  the  proper  arrangement  of  shrub- 
~ry  that  you  advocate  in  it 

Your  pictures  have  been  well  selected  to  bring 
hesc  principles  out  with  effect. 

Very  truly, 

(Signed)  FRANK  H.  CULLEY. 
Prof,  of  Landscape  Gardening, 
Iowa  State  College. 


Columbia,  Mo  .Sept.  22,  1915. 
TARK    BRO'S. 

Louisiana.   Mo. 

Gentlemen:  It  gives  me  pleasure  to  commend 
»ou  on  the  stock  which  you  furnished  me  dur- 
ing last  season.  I  found  the  size  and  condition 
of  ornamental  plants  very  satisfactory,  and  will 
be  glad  to  have  your  estimates  on  my  orders  for 
the  coming  season. 

Cordially  yours, 
(Signed)   H.  F.  MAJOR, 

Landscape  Architect. 


Costs  Only  Two  Cents 

No  charge  whatever  is  made  for 
this  service,  and  you  are  under  no 
obligation  to  spend  a  cent  with  us. 
We  will,  however,  include  with  the 
blue  print  a  list  of  stock  selected  by  our 
Landscape  Experts  and  show  you  what  it 
will  cost  to  plant  your  grounds  exactly  as 
the  Architect  has  outlined.  It  will  sur- 
prise you  how  small  the  cost  will  be. 

Right  now,  while  your  mind  is.  on  the 
subject,  prepare  the  rough  sketch  as  out- 
lined on  page  5.  It  won't  take  over  five 
minutes  of  your  time.  Mail  it  to  us  today. 
The  cost  to  you  is  only  two  cents — the 
price  of  a  postage  stamp  Mail  your 
sketch  early,  so  our  Landscape  Architects 
will  have  sufficient  time  to  give  careful 
attention  to  your  design. 

Send  us  the  sketch  today. 


Stark  Landscape  Plans 

Top  plan  shows  outline  of  planting  with  the 
key  numbers  which  correspond  to  numbers  and 
names  of  plants  on  Stark  Bro's  estimate  blank 
that  goes  with  each  plan.  This  is  a  suburban 
home.  The  planting  is  unusually  moderate  in 
cost. 

The  middle  plan  illustrates  the  great  possi- 
bilities on  a  small  city  lot.  Note  the  Rose 
Garden. 

The  lower  plan  shows  a  large  country  home 
with  a  beautiful  naturalistic  planting.  Stark 
Bro's  Landscape  Architects  plan  all  xi;f.«  anil 
kinds  of  homes. 


Stark  Bro's — Louisiana,  Mo. 

Landscape   Architects   and  Ornamental  Nurserymen 


alth  Proas,  Chicago 


Americas 

foremost 
Growers/ 

Oftiamenfals 

1516-1916 


"•* 

I 


StarkBro's 


Landscape  Architects 

and  Ornamental 

Nurserymen 


louisianaNJ 


'*£&* 


V'Jf'vVfc; 


. 


Photomount 
Pamphlet 

Binder 
Gaylord  Bros. 

Makers 
Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

PAT.  JAN  21,  1908 


mm 


526799 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


